drill press confusion

Page 2 of 2  
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Yeah, the $99 one is not very attractive to me either. I've been looking at the bts20r as a very low-cost alternative to the Ridgid and Bosch jobsite saws. I need something compact that will fold up and roll but can still rip a full sheet in half. I'll be stuck indoors in a 7x11' "shop" during the winter, and my current bench saw (Shopmaster TS220LS) only has a 20" rip capacity and no spiffy folding cart, and the throat insert blows.
The Ryobi does what the Ridgid or Bosch will do, but at less than half the price. And the editors of FWW give it high praise. I might get one.
That said, the Ridgid portable does *feel* better. Heftier, less cheesy, like a Buick vs. a 4-banger Chevy J car. Anyway, I'd be interested to hear how you like the bts20r.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
One important thing that nobody has yet mentioned is "Spindle stroke". This is the length of downward movement that the drill press will go without changing the table position. In my case since I'm frequently drilling through pieces of wood 3-3" it was important to me to have that spindle stroke capacity. Size of DP does NOT guarantee longer stroke. This specification will be clearly marked on the box and in my opinion is more important then variable speed changing methods. VS is important but it really doesn't matter much whether its belt or electronic. Almost ALL drill press's will offset the table for taller pieces if need be as far as I know. So think about what your going to be making and get something that has a spindle stroke to match OR BETTER.
Troy
boorite wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
yeah I have researched that too. the 10" DP has 2 3/8" quill travel while the 12" DP has 3 1/4".

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Yeah, what Troy said. Variable speed by belt & pulley changing is no big deal, the laser pointers don't matter either. But there's a big difference between 2 3/8" and 3 1/4" stroke. Consider that the smaller is not adequate to go through 2 2X's clamped together, or for that matter, may not even go through a 2X plus a 1X total thickness. I've got an old Rockwell radial also, so I never lack for swing distance, but I've often wished it's slowest speed was a little slower.
--
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - snipped-for-privacy@charm.net
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@fellspt.charm.net () wrote in
*sniPp*

This has been one of the first things I look at. The HF models have about 2", but the better ones at Menards are closer to (if not at) 3". I think 3" will be deep enough for my purposes, but I might need to drill a hole through 2 2x's.
Needless to say I'm still looking. The ONLY thing I miss about my high school was the shop.
Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

You can get around a short stroke. Drill as deep as you can, turn the DP off, raise the table so that the bit goes down in the hole, secure the wood and turn the DP back on and continue drilling.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
hi leon,
I learnt about that technique too, among a lot of other things, in just 2 days, thanks to my "confusion" :). am just feeling good about not risking outgrowing my DP too soon. I liked that 10" but the extra power of this 12" might come handy some day.
thanks for your input. -joy
Leon wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 4 Oct 2006 12:22:01 -0700, " snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com"

My first (and only) is a Delta floor model. I have to slip the belt over pulleys to change speeds, but for the most part I keep it at 1000 rpm. I'm really glad to have a floor model. Whatever you use, I found that a cheap drafting lamp mounted nearby gives all the light I need.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
took me several happy hours today to make a sturdy bench for the 12" ryobi DP. I will be adding a caster platform to it tomorrow. I really love this drill. a floor model could definitely offer a lot more, but this will just do for me. In rare cases of drilling on big workpieces I can swing the head. But for those cases when you need to drill a dowel hole, I have the doweling jig and the hand power drill. Love the lasers and built-in light. Minimalistic design. The variable speed is a boon too, can always fine tune the speed for a work at hand.
A couple pics: -drill press on bench: http://www.pbase.com/jdutta78/image/68174565 -bench: http://www.pbase.com/jdutta78/image/68174564 -caster below table saw: http://www.pbase.com/jdutta78/image/68174566
happy woodworking. -j
Phisherman wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
-j

the best thing I did for my floor dp is replce the chuck with a keyless chuck.
Believe it or not .. with the key chuck I was having trouble getting a good bite on the drill bit, it would keep slipping on heavy load.
Since I have replace it with a good keyless .. it no longer slips and it seems to have less wobble.
mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.