Dremel/HB

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On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:27:03 -0800, Charlie Groh

Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside of the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.

Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are better Buggylugging any sheet goods.

I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.
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...hehehe...if you *miss* you're inside the box, that's all...a drywall crew will, as a rule, not bother to inform anybody of such slight mistakes, so when sparky gets there he's got some extra, usually minor, work...they bitch and move on...

...to each, brother. ;0) I don't do large sheetwall (dryrock) jobs much anymore...usually patching having to do with kitchen work. I've gotten pretty good at it, and the wall work that follows...I try to keep my tools on the job to a Mikita bag/kit, my hot dog compressor with a couple of guns, and my bags... and whatever speciality (like drywall) tools are necessary to get the job done...and the older I get the less stuff I seem to need!
cg
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Charlie Groh wrote:

The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but goes through the stuff like butter.

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On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"

As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.
Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.
-- Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.
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On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 06:27:29 -0800, Larry Jaques

The world famous Harbor Fright multi-tool is FABULOUS for drywall. Less mess and nice clean straight lines in a hurry. No crumbled edges, either.
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On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 09:59:46 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote:

Yes, I'd think that would be the perfect tool for "old work". Hanging drywall is where the RotoZip is supposed to shine. The idea is that the bit follows the *outside* of the box. It takes some practice but not hard.
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snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote:

There's little reason to ever use a saw or roto-tool on drywall -- a drywall knife scores the paper and one then breaks it w/o the dust. A cutout is the one place but even there an 'X' and a tap does the trick after the outline and if one has a template for the outline that also is quick.
--


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It's the outlet box cutouts where RotoZip shows its usefulness. The template *is* the outlet box, already hanging in the correct position on the wall.
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On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 09:59:46 -0500, the infamous snipped-for-privacy@dog.com scrawled the following:

I sent my Amazon Wish list to my sister. It has the $400 Fein Multitaskwhatever tool listed, but I noted that I'd accept the HF Multifunction tool at $40 on sale right now.
-- Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.
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On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:34:13 -0800, Charlie Groh

The pilot "edge" on the bit has nothing to nick the wires with and the wires should be pushed back in the box. Are you sure you were using the right bit?

Well, I'm not a sheetrocker (I'd have to kill myself) and even use screws to hang what little I do. ;-) Not even RotoZip pretends that pros use RotoZips.
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...you are right...no, they don't, come to think...the guys I've observed use what amounts to a laminate router with the same bit we're talking about...
cg
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I have the Craftsman knock off of the RotoZip..sort of like a Dremel on HGH. 1/4" collet but I have 2-3 versions of the 1/4 to 1/8" adapter to take the 1/8" standard Dremel mandrels. Comes in handy often especially with the 2" cut off discs. I found the standard Dremel tools too wimpy
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wrote:

I have a cordless RotoZip too. It's great for cutting holes in sheetrock and I've used the circle cutter a number of times. It didn't like the Hardi-backer dist much though. The bearings are pretty well shot. It looks like the Milti* tools are better at the things I use the RotoZip for so it'll likely not be replaced.
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wrote:

...well, *my* Dremel broke after a couple of years...and maybe two hours of use. I don't see how you can go wrong for 16 bux...heck, I'm on the way...
cg
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Bill wrote:

I'd go for anything *but* Dremel.
--

dadiOH
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On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 06:12:26 -0500, the infamous "dadiOH"

I've only used it a few times, but the $5 (yes, five bucks on sale) rotary tool kit from HF has worked fine for me...for tiny stuff. Those and Dremels are gutless little things. http://fwd4.me/646
-- Q: How many climate scientists does it take to change a light bulb?
A: None. There's a consensus that it's going to change, so they've decided to keep us in the dark.
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Bill wrote:

A Dremel is one of those things that unless you're into power carving or the like you seldom use but when you do use it you're glad that you have it.
If you have a compressor though carefully consider HF's little micro die grinder http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?ItemnumberG869.
It uses Dremel bits and works fine with Dremel collets, but not the accessories like the router base and whatnot. Using it, it works like a Dremel is _supposed_ to work and never did for me.
Being an air tool, if you take care of it it will likely last you forever unless you're beating the crap out of it every day.
With _any_ rotary tool wear good safety glasses or a face shield. They will occasionally break cutters and when they do you don't want one in your eye.
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On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:25:35 -0500, "J. Clarke"

WARNING!
The micro die air grinder operates at almost twice the speed of a dremel. Many dremel bits and attachements become extremely dangerous at those speeds and may fly apart with great force and velocity without warning. Make sure any bits or attachements are rated for 56,000 RPM. Dremel tools are designed for 35,000 RPM max.
Full face shield and heavy gloves are a really good idea.
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snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote:

I thought about putting in that warning, but the safety equipment is the same regardless, and in practical experience I haven't had any Dremel accessories come apart with it. In any case the small diameter limits the velocity of the bits that come apart. I used to live in holy terror of Dremel bits attacking me but it turned out to be pretty much a non-issue.
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On Nov 27, 8:42am, snipped-for-privacy@dog.com wrote:

Very good advice. Thanks for that.
r
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