Dreaming of Router bit storage

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As long as Charlie is dreaming about the perfect shop what about the perfect place to store router bits?
I only have about 20 bits right now but some are in a small box others are in the plastic bag or plastic box they came in and the whole mess of them are laying in a drawer. Time to do something with especially since I just got the PC 4212 dovetail machine (2 more bits) which needs a storage place.
What is the ideal storage system for router bits? (If you already built it add a link)
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RayV wrote:

Here is my solution:
http://www.loyno.edu/~cbmarsh/tigerbitcase.htm
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wrote:

Sweet!
I hope those aren't $5 woodcraft green bits in that beautiful case, not that I have any I just heard they were that color ;-) .
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RayV wrote:

Me? Cheap Woodcraft router bits? :-)
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wrote:

Charlie M, If and when you decide to move your router bit collection to another organizer you can use this one to store your wifes tiara in. Joe G
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Charlie M. 1958 wrote:

Awesome...but it brings a question to mind: Does your wife know you have this much free time?
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snipped-for-privacy@heapg.com wrote:

She doesn't want any of my "dust collectors", as she calls them, in the house. So I'm forced to make extravagant shop items for my own enjoyment. :-)
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Things in drawers are hidden - which is ok - unless they get hidden again under some other stuff. And little boxes inside of boxes are just as bad. Worse yet, the boxes tend to hide from you - often under a stack of stuff you piled on top of them. (OK - so I'm the only one here who has to do an archeological dig to find something "I just set down a moment ago".
My vote is to store router bits in a wall hanging cabinet. Hard to stack things - on a wall. And if you hang the cabinet on the wall closest to the router table . . .
And if you're gonna make a cabinet for the router bits - why not cooper the doors? If you make some minor mistakes along the way - HEY it's JUST SHOP FURNITURE! (and what you learn may show up in some future "house furniture" project. Coopered doors aren't rocket science things. Try it, it's easier than you think.
http://web.hypersurf.com/~charlie2/CooperedDoors/CooperedDoors0.html
The coopered doors were easy. The knife hinges weren't. It's the little stuff that causes all the grief.
charlie b
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My first set of frame and panel doors sit on my bench cabinet. It also holds my first set of hand dovetailed drawers. I got over excited planing the horns of the styles so there is a curve to the tops ;-) and the crappy plywood delaminated in places as I cut the dovetails but as you say the experience is invaluable.
My router bits sit in a large pull out tray arrangement below the drawers on full extension sliders. It is in essence a piece of 18mm mdf drilled with groups of different sized, blind ended holes. Currently it holds 6 and 8mm router bits, screwdriver bits and every drill bit that doesn't have its own case. Works well for me.
Peter
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One of the mags suggested cutting different sized squares of 3/4 stock with properly sized holes in the middle of each. Large squares for those monsters and smaller for the straights, ogees, roundovers etc. (sized a bit larger than the radius of the bits) The blocks are friction fit in a box or drawer so they can be lifted out. Why they are loose is a mystery to me. But, the blocks being rigid keeps the bits and their edges well separated. My foam system isn't all that stable and the bits can lean into one another.
Since my storage is in a couple drawers similar to Karl's I'm thinking I'd size the blocks to fit those drawers, less a divider to hold the wrenches away from the bits.
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FWW, perhaps too simple, but it works for me:
http://e-woodshop.net/images/Rbits.jpg
A box, with no top and which can be moved to the router, workbench, etc; lined with a commercial foam "router bit" holder; all in a drawer dedicated to router paraphernalia.
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Swingman wrote:

of green bits in there too though, Ray. :-)
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Wood magazine http://woodstore.net/earoor.html is one Also try September 2001 issue 135 page 20 for another one
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I'm sure it's far from ideal, but my current setup is a piece of 1" butternut (no reason; just had a lot) with 1/2" and 1/4" holes drilled in it, which sits in a toolbox drawer. Added a dowel to one of the 1/4" holes where slotting cutters sit, and drilled a larger hole where the unused collet sits. I could post a picture if you really want, but it's pretty straightforward - spacing of the holes just depends on the size of your bits. Mine just isn't quite big enough in terms of capacity. I just picked up a discarded 3.5" floppy disk storage container - basically 2 drawers, about 10" deep, that once held disks (remember those?) vertically. Kind of like a double-wide one of these: http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=MCMProducts&category%5Fname831450&product%5Fid=CS00128 I'm thinking a piece of ~3.5" wide scrap in each drawer, with several holes drilled most of the way through, will make it into a nice enclosed router bit holder (whenever I get a round tuit). Maybe the thing can be mounted under my router table - we'll see. I should include some space for the collet wrench. Ideal router bit storage (in many climates) should probably be enclosed and include some dessicant, unless you're really good about oiling/waxing/protecting all your bits. Good luck, Andy
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RE: Subject
The method used in the NYW router station is very straight forward.
Lew
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Take a slab of 2" wood, and drill a bunch o' 1" deep holes in it. Voila! I have mine in a big drawer in the router table, so I can just open it and grab the one I need.
Bob
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I use old 35mm plastic film canisters for smaller bits. Label the top lid with the bit info, drill a grid of holes the size of the film canister (but smaller than the lid diameter) and drop them in. Can be mounted vertically or horizontally. The larger bits hang in their original packaging in an old medicine cabinet with a sheet of 3/8" plywood fitted internally.
The advent of digital SLR cameras means that the supply of film canisters will likely be drying up, however.
scott
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RayV wrote:

1. Take a 3/4" thick board
2. Drill 1/2" holes in it not quite all the way through. Make a pretty pattern :)
3. Size board to fit drawer
4. Put board IN drawer.
If you have both 1/2" & 1/4" bits, put a piece of 1/2" dowel in board hole(s), drill 1/4" hole in dowel.
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A 33/64" drill makes it a lot easier to get the bit back out of the hole.

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CW wrote:
> A 33/64" drill makes it a lot easier to get the bit back out of the hole.
Along with drilling thru holes in a piece of 9 ply, then attaching a piece of door skin with some brads to close the holes.
Just make sure you use backer boards to eliminate tear out.
Lew
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