drawer type


I'm building a set of file cabinets and wanted to know what kind of joint would be the best for me to use. I don't have a dovetail jig and I don't have a biscuit joiner, nor is it in my budget to purchase one.
I was thinking of using a rabbeted joint in the back.
What do you reccommend?
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I don't own a dovetail jig either and I routinely use rabbet joints in the front and in the back. You can reinforce them with screws. Very strong joint, just not as perty as a dovetail joint. I usually plug the screw holes with a contrasting wood.
See here:
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/pictures/DCP00621.jpg
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Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
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rolsonDesign wrote: > I'm building a set of file cabinets and wanted to know what kind of > joint would be the best for me to use. I don't have a dovetail jig and > I don't have a biscuit joiner, nor is it in my budget to purchase one. > > I was thinking of using a rabbeted joint in the back. > > What do you reccommend?
Assuming you are going to use 1/2", 9 ply, cabinet birch for the front, back, and sides, I'd use a 1/2W x 1/4DP dado for the back and 1/4W x 1/4DP for the front.
Cut a 1/4 x 1/4 rabbet on both sides in the front piece.
Attach a separate decorative front with some coarse thread, self tapping, S/S, sheet metal screws (I like them better than wood screws) and use 1/4" cabinet birch for the bottom, and you are done.
All you need is an accurate table saw and sharp blades.
Lew
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rolsonDesign wrote:

I'd use box joints.
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Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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A rabbet and dado, with a few 1/4" dowels. Dado in the side piece.
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rolsonDesign wrote:

board for front back and sides. 1/4 plywood for the bottom. Put a pair of 3/4 inch dadoes in the front to accept the sides. Put a 3/4 inch dado in the sides to accept the back. Put a 1/4 inch dado in the front back and sides to accept the plywood drawer bottom. Glue and a few small finishing nails holds everything together. This yields a drawer front that overlaps the frame of the cabinet into which it slides. For a drawer that slides flush into the frame, rabbit the sides at the front. Leave at least 1/4 inch (more is better) between the edge of the board and any dado. The drawers I made this way for my radial arm saw stand are still in good shape after 20 years loaded with heavy shop stuff. They even slide easily. The dovetail joint is very pretty, widely admired, and traditional on fine furniture. However lesser joints are plenty strong enough for utility furniture.
David Starr
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http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker/articles/200202/thismonth/main.html
rolsonDesign wrote:

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I also forgot the table saw version...
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/wood/story/data/111.xml&catref=wd21
rolsonDesign wrote:

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