Drawer lock bit

[C & E]

I have a set of three cabinet bits that I recently bought for use on my router table - using a DeWalt 618 on a Woodpecker raiser. So, I've read up on what little I can find on these bits from MLCS and a couple of personal sites online and tried the "miter lock" and then, the "door (seems like drawer is more appropriate) lock" on a piece of spruce 3/4" x 6" x 8" and did *not* use my featherboards (Yea, stupid). These bits really want to pitch the wood back at you. Oh yea, the one site said to take the entire depth in one pass because setting up for a matching cut would be hard to duplicate. Am I right in tinking that you make each successive depth change on all pieces to avoid this? I'm thinking that I'm going to have to make a ZC fence add-on for these cuts (on 12" deep drawers) and definitely get my featherboards on the fence and on the table, right? And, I could really use some better directions on these things. They are wicked even at the slowest speed setting. TIA, Chuck

[Tyke]

I have one of these bits but only used it once. I would never attempt a single pass. Far too much wood to be removed, even in soft woods like pine.

The instructions are correct that the bit height needs to be adjusted to the correct height for the wood thickness, but you can easily start with the FENCE allowing a small cut. I do this often. Start small, move the fence back e.g., 1/8 at a time. I do this as a hobby, so spending several minutes to make a single, but safe cut is not a problem for me.

Dave Paine.

[Chris Friesen]

You could do that. Alternately, you could set up the fence for a full-depth cut, and then use one or more spacers between the work and the fence. That way the cut that you care about is accurate.

Chris