On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 4:08:14 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
*I like that "click for larger view".... like it would really make a difference!
I would think typical drawer bottoms (interiors) are adequate, just spray inside, when spraying the rest of the unit.
If you glued the panels together they would be stronger. Past that if
the white panel scratches it might look worse after a few years.
Plywood is always going to be stronger than hardboard. You might
consider 1/4" paint grade plywood and paint it the color of choice with
an enamel paint.
I'm with you.
1/4", 5 ply Birch die board and 2-3 coats of shellac works for me for
Forgot to include that the shellac is a 1 lb cut applied with a 2"
Yeah, I understood that. The thing is, why? Although 1/4 is a pretty
standard drawer bottom thickness, there is no rule requiring it. Some
drawers need a bottom that thick, some need thicker but for most normally
sized drawers 1/8 would be sufficient. (Unless you are going to store
wrenches on them :).
Easy to cut the grooves for it too if your table saw blade is 1/8 or 1/8 +
Food for thought here, these will be kitchen drawers, kitchen utensils
tend to be much like wrenches. ;~) I live in a relatively new
neighborhood, newest homes are 3 years old. One of the builders used
1/8" thick drawer bottoms and I have rebuild several of those drawers,
for neighbors, not mine, already. By comparison our builder used 1/4"
bottoms and we have had no issues yet. 1/4" plywood is much less
expensive than the time to rebuild a kitchen drawer bottom that may fail.
On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 9:59:22 AM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
I'll be making 5 kitchen drawers. At this time, some could probably get by with 1/8" (plastic wrap/bags in one, a knife holder tray in another, etc.) However, at least one needs 1/4". Picture 2 trays full of utensils, one on top of the other (don't ask!).
Who knows...they are kitchen drawers today, maybe they'll be workshop drawers (read: wrenches) in the future. For consistency and longevity, I'll be using 1/4" bottoms.
My dado blade will get lonely.
A term I haven't heard since my Coast Guard days! Picture it said with a heavy German accent by a German national EE. Very funny, probably had to be there/know him. Sylt, Germany, circa 1974-75.
It should stay lonely if you use ply. I always use a standard 1/8" kerf
blade, I use a flat cut blade for flat bottoms but not necessary. Get
your bottom material first and make two passes on the TS to perfectly
cut/fit your drawer bottom groove to the material you are going to use
for the bottoms. If you use a dado it is very likely that it will cut
too wide for 1/4" ply.
On Sunday, January 11, 2015 at 2:08:14 PM UTC-8, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Drawer bottoms (in my silverware drawer, for instance) take a lot of steady load.
I've seen a lot of MDF/hardboard/termitebarf movement in moisture/load situations,
and would be happier with 3/8" plywood, rabbeted at the edges
to fit a 1/4" groove.
For small drawers in dry locations, though, you could do well with melamine-surfaced
hardboard (like for shower stalls).
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