Doors and Out of Plumb Walls

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The house I live in now is around 50 years old... The builder was a real genius and unfortunately dead or I'd sue him... It's built on a slab with no foundation underneath. the slab is at ground level in front of the house. Behind the house the property slants into the house foundation so water runs up to, down and under the house. The kitchen sink's drain, at the back of the house went into the slab but was never connected to the main drain so for 30 years we ran dishwashing water including a dishwasher down there and eroded away the dirt...
The center of my house is stable. The back left corner is stable. The front left corner is down 4". The front right corner is down 4.5" and the rear right corner was down almost 8".
I just finished lifting the house and re-leveling the entire thing, putting in foundations and new basement walls as well as a poured floor and a channel around the exterior of the floor to catch any water that may someday be there. Regraded the outside of the house. Fixed the aluminum siding (half was installed pre-settle and half post-settle!) While lifting, the copper drain pipe from the second floor separated from the main drain. The cast iron did not. Had to fix that. I've had a storage container in my driveway for 6 months.
The entire 2nd floor was done after the house settled. Half of the first floor was remodeled mid-settle.
I have 14 doors to rehang inside and two entrance doors. I have a garage door to hang but the slab is cracked and heaved 3" in the center of the doorway so I have to fix that first...
I have to fix stress cracks, replace windows, fix buckled siding and paint it all.
I have until the end of June to do this. Why? Because I want to move before my two kids start school in September.
I haven't decided whether I'm balding or just loosing my hair. <grin>
--


Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
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HA Ha. You should see some of the old buildings i work on. The level wasn't invented when they went up, and neither was the straight timber. Last year I was working on a floor wearing hard plastic knee pads and I found if I put too much weight on my knees I slid down the floor and hit the wall.
Tim W
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Last year I

<SPEW!> lmao!
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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wrote:

I have installed a few. Pre-hung doors are fairly straightforward. I make my own wooden shims from the scrap pile, after seeing what they cost. Rough framing is rarely square and plumb. And walls are bowed or sunken, a challenge when installing crown molding. I am currently fixing a door jamb so the trim can be installed properly. Jobs usually take longer than you might think, and when it's my house I'll fuss with it until it is right. If a door (or drawer) does not open/close sweetly, you'll be reminded every time you use it.
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I was in a motel one time where the bathroom door shut sweetly. I've never seen it before, and unfortunately will probably never see it again. The door simply shut quietly, and with a little reveal all around. It really didn't need the trim stop piece in the middle, the fit was so perfect.
We've got a prehung door in the house now that is less than a year old that's already having trouble shutting. Either it wasn't installed straight enough or the hinges were insufficient for the load.
Puckdropper
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"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message

Any chance it's caused by wood shrinkage/movement or can you now see some space between hinge leaves?
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In dropped this bit of wisdom:

Like Puckdropper, I have much the same problem. My slab is still perfect (steel), however, the lock side jamb has warped such that it takes some grunting to open or close. I have tried the big screw to the problem area with no improvement. Anyone know of a good way to prevent this happening that I can apply to my new pre-hung door??
P D Q
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PDQ wrote:

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"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
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In dropped this bit of wisdom:

Already did that and gave up when I detetrmined how much really had to disappear. Didn't want to pull the jambs just to shave off some swelling.
That is why I now have a new pre-hung door to install. I have been toying with the idea of painting the backside of the jambs in an effort to seal them before installation.
P D Q
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PDQ wrote:

it with enough of a gap that if it does swell you're covered. I live in a dry area and when it rains it does swell. I leave about 1/8th of an inch.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
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You might try taking the trim off the lock side and see what's holding it from moving with your screw. It may be that some of the insulation needs to be removed (especially if it's foam) or, worst case, it may be up against the framing already.
Mike O.
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On 08 May 2009 06:55:01 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:

It's pretty rare that the hinges would give up in a year.
What's it doing? Can you see poor clearances anywhere now? Does it seem like one side is dropping? Could the door be warping?
Mike O.
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Mike O. wrote:

Those cheap pre-hungs have such thin casements that they can bow out if not shimmed and nailed in enough.
Around here, it's very common to see them installed with only the pre-attached trim nailed through the drywall and *no* nails or shims through the casement. Not kidding.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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-MIKE- wrote:

Ive seen that in your lower cost tract house, (500,000 Moderate home price here a few years back). No shims and the casement or trim holding the door in place. I couldn't believe it when I first saw it. I thought what a neat trick, to bad it doesn't work.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
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wrote:

The exterior doors on the manufactured home I live in were pretty much installed that way. They had a dozen or so 3" staples through the brick-mould and that was about it. Getting those doors to function in anything like a "normal" manner took a bit of doing.
-- Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
I started out with nothing and after years of hard work have finally managed to double it!
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I think I've seen that, too. I talked to a rep from a door company, who was at Lowes for whatever reason. I was asking him about those "clam-shell" doors with the pre-installed trim. He said those staples were never intended to be the final attachment fasteners. He said they're just in there to hold the trim on through shipping and to help square the door during installation. They always recommend finish nails installed on site.
--

-MIKE-

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The door misses the catch consistently, and has to be lifted via the knob to engage it.
I just checked with the level. The frame is straight, but installed skewed. Over 4', the frame is out of plumb by 1/4". (I bet this is where the problem is.)
The hinges aren't that great either, the top hinge allows quite a bit of play between the two halves. Lifting the door can align or mis-align the hinges by 1/32-1/16". Several of the frame-side screws have stripped out, and a few of them were working their way out. The door-side screws were all tight, though.
Puckdropper
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Deep drawer: A shallow drawer with thought provoking words.

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I'm sure you know this, but someone lurking may not.
It's a good idea to replace one hinge screw (casement side) per hinge, with a long (3+") screw, that goes all the way through the casement, shims, jack stud and king stud. For heavy doors, like thick solid wood panel doors, replacing two per hinge can do wonders for keeping everything straight and operating properly.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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wrote:

Make sure you put shims behind the casement right where the screws go before driving those long screws. Most cheap door installations don't have any shims behind the hinges, so that whole side flexes and if you put a long screw in you will make things much worse.
DAMHIKT
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
My laptop knows me too well - it just announced "your battery is low!"
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Tim Douglass wrote:

Yes, I should have typed shims in all caps. :-)
--

-MIKE-

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