After a few experiences with the fun and games of finishing a piece
after it all glued up, squeeze out cleaned up and a little sanding where
necessary, the light bulb goes off. "You know, if I'd applied the
to the parts BEFORE glue up - life would've been a lot simpler. No
worries about finish sag. No runs, no drips - no errors - to use a
However - if you go that route you have to be VERY careful not to get
finish on / in the joinery for fear of weakening the joint.
BUT - WHAT IF . . . the joinery could be cut AFTER the finish has been
applied and had time to cure? For most finishes, glue squeeze out
would be easy to take care of - AND - no worrying about a little bit
of glue you didn't even see - 'til you applied the finish.
Yet another, subtle little capability the DOMINO makes possible -
I keep "discovering" more about how the DOMINO changes what, how
and when I do things while making a piece. Have you noticed any
not so obvious ways it's changed how you work?
More good Domino info. Thanks.
You need to be hooked up with a ww mag that will give you your own
The Domino Corner by CharlieB
Yeah, that's the ticket!
Wait a minute.... if that happened we would no longer get that info
here in the newsgroup. OK, scratch the Domino Corner.
Have you already discounted Waxilit???
The trouble with refinishing and then cutting the wood is that you often
scratch the finish when cutting or assembling.
Or, I switched to TB III simply for the color that it dries to. It dries to
a color close to the wood color unlike the taxi cab yellow. If working with
Walnut and darker woods I use Dark wood glue.
If you miss a spot it seldom shows.
Additionally I have better luck if I DO NOT glue around the mortise hole.
This area tends to have the most squeeze out.
Hey, the DOMINO doesn't do all the joinery I use. It's not THE
but gets pretty close for a lot of furniture sized loose tenon
There's nothing on the DOMINO that'll scratch anything and if there
a little sand paper or jewelers file work would take care of the
Got some of the dark brown stuff for just that application. Picked
up some "NEW Formula, Elmer's STAINABLE Wood Glue" - "weather
proof, for interior/exterior use, long set time, contains real wood
fibers for superior staining and sanding".ANSII Type II Water
(not for continuous submersion or bleow water line use). Haven't
tried to stain a piece I've used it on - a future To Do to add to my
I'm assuming you mean applying glue to the INSIDE of the mortise
as opposed to on the end of the end grain part. If you don't get
glue on the inside faces of the mortise, and only apply glue to the
outside face of the tenon, loose or "real", I'd worry about it being
scraped off the tenon on insertion - the fit is pretty snug.
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