I'll bow to greater skill and experience then, but I still won't be
trying it. I'm old enough to realize how easy it is to perform a
repetitive task correctly *almost* every time; but this task demands
100%. The penalty for inattention isn't merely ruining a piece of wood,
and one of my other pursuits requires ten functional fingers.
That one finger is a little close for my comfort, but probably because
I'm watching someone else. I *know* I've been that close before. With
the stops on that guide and an anti-kickback bit, there's not much to
fear if you're used to hand feeding stock like that.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Nothing wrong with the method, but I personally do not like to get my
fingers that close to a router bit without a bit of extra precaution.
That's why I made this to use in those situations, not that it makes
that particular jig/method 100% safer, but anyone who has ever had a
router grab a workpiece due to an edge grain issue will appreciate
taking advantage of any extra safety edge they can get when routing:
Woodpecker has always catered to folks looking to purchase shortcuts to
woodworking when they could be honing another skill making their own
jigs for the job. With just a smattering of ingenuity you can make a
much safer router jig, using the same method to radius corners, and for
far less than what Woodpecker charges you for that little piece of metal.
I needed to round corners like that, I'd make a much bigger template and
hold the wood to it with toggle clamps. In my last foray into
pattern-routing I even added handles to the jig:
My fingers were nowhere near the bit *and* I felt like a had firm
control of the piece.
For round corners, I saw a clever idea in a magazine: a rectangle of MDF
(maybe letter-paper size) with each corner rounded to a different
radius. One handy template for four different sizes.
I can grok.
A few years back I bought 1 100 or so old dorm desks (solid oak) at
auction for $0.50 each, all had drawer dust panels made in part from
masonite. Anyhoo, I have 100's of 17"x15" pieces of this stuff and it is
the "go-to" stash for router templates. Thin double stick carpet tape, a
spiral cut pattern bit in the router table and Bob's your uncle!
The key to making that cut in the video safer is to bandsaw close to the
finished curve. Much less for the bit to grab and toss and less chance
of splitting/tearout. Wood species also changes the comfort level.
Cherry is wondeful, Oak is not too bad, Hickory and cedar are basically
On 11/19/2014 7:42 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Everyone was made to solve a problem, or to head one off, and they all
add up down through the years.
Many or just one-off's...
Just imagine how many there would be in that collection if mobile phone
cameras and the world wide web had been around 50 years ago. ;)
It seems like it would be safer if there were some type of finger indent
or wing on the side that would catch the finger if there were an
accidental slip of the finger.
Would I use it? Probably, but I would think things through very
carefully, and then concentrate on what I was doing, and not be
listening to music or talking to a friend.
On Wednesday, November 19, 2014 9:27:32 AM UTC-6, keith firstname.lastname@example.org w
Right! I'd be inclined to have something else as backup protection, that w
ay (plus a little more distance). Never know, a little vibration, from a
slightly dulled bit, would be something one may not pay attention to. I'm
sure all the demo videos are with perfectly sharpened tools.
Or an accidental slip of the *work*. I read someplace - maybe here -
that you have to ask yourself what happens if something slips. "I'm not
sure" is an unacceptable answer. I think about that when I find myself
applying pressure toward the cutter. Only my grip on the work and the
resistance of the work to the cut is preventing my hand from moving
toward the bit or blade in an unexpected way.
A carbide router bit will slice through aluminum almost as easily as a hard
wood. In fact I sometimes will use a carbide router bit on one of the CNC
mills in a pinch of I can't find a carbide end mill that is perfect to do
the job. I would not trust a finger indent to protect me at all. The red
anodized finish is slightly harder, but it still won't even slow the cutter
down. However making something like this with a handle and/or clamping rod
so your hand is NEVER moving directly towards the cutter would not be too
difficult. Sharp cutters would certainly be the ticket with any finished
This jig for doing the job looks like it would be much safer:
Considering the number of machined and anodized parts it looks like a fairly
reasonable price. Especially for an American manufacturer.
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