I'll add my two cents. Oh, B.S.! You are talking
about nothing except metal rubbing on metal, a
piece of metal riding in a groove, with two pieces
of metal (the chain) riding on two flat surfaces
(the bar). The tension is highly variable, not
only at the beginning but during operation as the
chain heats up. The chain metal is hardened, the
bar is fairly hard, but easily draw filed. If you
need an engineer to figure out the lube, then you
probably need an engineer to figure out how to
lube the stick you slide across the floor.
Don't try to embue engineers with God like
knowledge. The stuff about formulated oil is
probably nothing but liability wording.
Use oil with some stickum. Are all of you going
to go to such extensive B.S. in describing what
kind of grease to use on the bar tip wheel?
I would guess that you know nothing about modern
(even old) engines and bearing tolerances.
Otherwise you wouldn't equate a modern engine
using the same oil for 5,000 miles with a chain on
a blade using replacement oil every few minutes.
Good point! Is that what I said? Oh yeah, it was
You that said something about engineers
designing saws to use a specific oil. And I said
you were full of shit. You are on the engineer
kick, not me. Probably no engineers involved in
the oil recommendation, and they certainly didn't
design a saw to use a specific oil (kind of bass
akwards, wouldn't it be?). Maybe a chemist
designed an oil that would work with the saw, but
more likely just somebody that has used a saw, an
accountant, and a lawyer--none of whom probably
know anything about oil formulas. BTW, I have
friends who are engineers, not gods, just people
(note I didn't say men because about half of them
are women) who also don't think they are gods and
none of whom probably give a shit about chainsaws
or the oil that the manufacture recommends for the
bars, but damn if they don't all have cars.
I've worked on development projects for mechanical equipment
and assure you that it is typical for the engineer(s) and/or
designer(s) to specify what lubricants should be used and
how to apply them.
I'd wager that when a chainsaw manufacturer comes out with
a new saw the recommendation for what oil to use on the bar
is made by virtue of NOT editing or redrawing that information
from whatever documents and drawings (of an older model) were
used as the starting point for the new model.
At some point between the invention of the chain saw and
the production of the say you bought someone put some
thought into chain lubrication. Unless and until that
recommendation changes, it is probably just there in the
documentation as a matter of inertia.
IOW, if you want to know what oil to use, RTFM.
Rather straining there aren't you. I don't see that I said anything
about a "specific" oil. Only that a "specific type" of oil, (e.g.,
bar/chain oil) was specified. You then went into a rant about
engineers, not me.
Hmmm, *my* motorcycle doesn't have a self oiling chain??? SO! To keep it
lubricated and keep the o-rings supple it is necessary to use a lube
that doesn't throw off. The chainsaw however has a continuous flow of
oil to the chain. Using used motor oil instead of thicker bar oil just
means refilling the oil reserve more often.
If you want to see a rant thread get going just toss out a few ideas on
disposing of 1 gal of year old gasoline - that *really* flushes out the
So just what do you think happens to a chainsaw chain as it goes over
the tip of the bar? That's right, it tries to sling oil off just like
your motorcycle does going around the sprocket. Same reason you want
some tack additive in the oil. Used motor doesn't have it. Using your
logic, you should be using used motor oil for your motorcycle chain.
Try actually reading before responding.
No, my argument is that, since the chainsaw is self oiling with a
constant flow of oil from the resevoir to replace what is thrown off or
dragged off by cutting the wood, it is not as important to have a sticky
oil as it is for a motorcycle chain that receives an occasional oiling
that must adhere to the chain for as long as possible thus making the
sticky oil necessary - whew...
As to whether used motor oil works for chainsaws, just go back up the
thread for proof.
Okay, lets try this. Which do you think is -better- for a saw. Used
oil (or even new motor oil) that slings most of it off going over the
nose before it gets to the point of most wear or oil with a tack
additive that gets more oil where it is needed?
I don't understand the animosity in this thread at all. Noone says that
motor oil doesn't work. The motor oil proponents aren't going to
change, I am not going to change and I use a lot of chain/bar oil. The
opinions are just that - opinions. What the hell is all the screaming
Actually, I never thought of it, but I really doubt it's really doing
any harm--it's not a demanding lubrication problem and the solids
suspended in the oil aren't anything much to compare to the junk that's
being collected on the bar anyway...
imo, $0.02, ymmv, etc., .... :)
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