Do you use bar oil in your chainsaw?

Page 2 of 8  

As someone else already noted in this outrageously long thread, 90 cents a quart for cheap motor oil. $3.95 for a gallon of bar oil. I fail to see where (new) motor oil is cheaper.
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I have use Ams/Oil bar and chain oil since 1990 and NO problems
wrote:

The claim that

but OTOH it is very

was being used up

complicated and delicate

To think that it

inadequate for the task

equally silly

to recycle it

NEW oil instead of

limited oil.

discussion.
discussion, now,

involved in

used old motor

fence posts to

with no

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protection. That's

motorcycle, or bicycle,

designing them say

that they

to dig out

specifically says not

Well, if I was in the business of selling branded "special" bar oil at twice the price of cheap motor oil I'd put that in my instruction manual too.
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Harry K wrote:

I'll add my two cents. Oh, B.S.! You are talking about nothing except metal rubbing on metal, a piece of metal riding in a groove, with two pieces of metal (the chain) riding on two flat surfaces (the bar). The tension is highly variable, not only at the beginning but during operation as the chain heats up. The chain metal is hardened, the bar is fairly hard, but easily draw filed. If you need an engineer to figure out the lube, then you probably need an engineer to figure out how to lube the stick you slide across the floor.
Don't try to embue engineers with God like knowledge. The stuff about formulated oil is probably nothing but liability wording.
Use oil with some stickum. Are all of you going to go to such extensive B.S. in describing what kind of grease to use on the bar tip wheel?
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George E. Cawthon wrote:

I presume you follow that advice. Your vehicles must love you for not following the recommended type oil. After all you know more than the engineers.
Harry K
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Harry K wrote:

I would guess that you know nothing about modern (even old) engines and bearing tolerances. Otherwise you wouldn't equate a modern engine using the same oil for 5,000 miles with a chain on a blade using replacement oil every few minutes.
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George E. Cawthon wrote:

So in one use you say engineers are full of it and you don't believe their recommendations and then in another they are god? Rather inconsistent wouldn't you say?
Harry K
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Harry K wrote:

((snipped))
Good point! Is that what I said? Oh yeah, it was You that said something about engineers designing saws to use a specific oil. And I said you were full of shit. You are on the engineer kick, not me. Probably no engineers involved in the oil recommendation, and they certainly didn't design a saw to use a specific oil (kind of bass akwards, wouldn't it be?). Maybe a chemist designed an oil that would work with the saw, but more likely just somebody that has used a saw, an accountant, and a lawyer--none of whom probably know anything about oil formulas. BTW, I have friends who are engineers, not gods, just people (note I didn't say men because about half of them are women) who also don't think they are gods and none of whom probably give a shit about chainsaws or the oil that the manufacture recommends for the bars, but damn if they don't all have cars. Cheers!
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http://tinyurl.com/dkwsn
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wrote:

Damn I hate it when people post a URL without any explanation ! Especially when they post it twice.
* Messages deleted *
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George E. Cawthon wrote:

I've worked on development projects for mechanical equipment and assure you that it is typical for the engineer(s) and/or designer(s) to specify what lubricants should be used and how to apply them.
I'd wager that when a chainsaw manufacturer comes out with a new saw the recommendation for what oil to use on the bar is made by virtue of NOT editing or redrawing that information from whatever documents and drawings (of an older model) were used as the starting point for the new model.
At some point between the invention of the chain saw and the production of the say you bought someone put some thought into chain lubrication. Unless and until that recommendation changes, it is probably just there in the documentation as a matter of inertia.
IOW, if you want to know what oil to use, RTFM.
--

FF


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http://tinyurl.com/dkwsn
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George E. Cawthon wrote:

Rather straining there aren't you. I don't see that I said anything about a "specific" oil. Only that a "specific type" of oil, (e.g., bar/chain oil) was specified. You then went into a rant about engineers, not me.
Harry K
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Harry K wrote:

Like trying to talk to a 6 year (especially one with no sense of humor). Merry Christmas and don't take any wooden nickels form doctors.
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Charlie Self wrote:

Hmmm, *my* motorcycle doesn't have a self oiling chain??? SO! To keep it lubricated and keep the o-rings supple it is necessary to use a lube that doesn't throw off. The chainsaw however has a continuous flow of oil to the chain. Using used motor oil instead of thicker bar oil just means refilling the oil reserve more often.
If you want to see a rant thread get going just toss out a few ideas on disposing of 1 gal of year old gasoline - that *really* flushes out the nutcases!
AL
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Anything wrong with pouring it into your vehicle's tank (as long as we're not talking diesel) and then diluting with more fresh gas?
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
  Click to see the full signature.
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AL wrote:

<snip>
So just what do you think happens to a chainsaw chain as it goes over the tip of the bar? That's right, it tries to sling oil off just like your motorcycle does going around the sprocket. Same reason you want some tack additive in the oil. Used motor doesn't have it. Using your logic, you should be using used motor oil for your motorcycle chain.
Harry K
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Harry K wrote:

Try actually reading before responding.
No, my argument is that, since the chainsaw is self oiling with a constant flow of oil from the resevoir to replace what is thrown off or dragged off by cutting the wood, it is not as important to have a sticky oil as it is for a motorcycle chain that receives an occasional oiling that must adhere to the chain for as long as possible thus making the sticky oil necessary - whew...
As to whether used motor oil works for chainsaws, just go back up the thread for proof.
AL
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AL wrote:

Okay, lets try this. Which do you think is -better- for a saw. Used oil (or even new motor oil) that slings most of it off going over the nose before it gets to the point of most wear or oil with a tack additive that gets more oil where it is needed?
I don't understand the animosity in this thread at all. Noone says that motor oil doesn't work. The motor oil proponents aren't going to change, I am not going to change and I use a lot of chain/bar oil. The opinions are just that - opinions. What the hell is all the screaming about??
Harry K
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gfulton wrote:

I agree, excellent logic. But, remember, no good deed goes unpunished.
:)
AL
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Doug Miller wrote:

Actually, I never thought of it, but I really doubt it's really doing any harm--it's not a demanding lubrication problem and the solids suspended in the oil aren't anything much to compare to the junk that's being collected on the bar anyway...
imo, $0.02, ymmv, etc., .... :)
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