Do I need hook tooth blade for resawing with a Jet 14in. band saw?

[Billy Smith]

I have a Jet 14in. bandsaw (JWBS-14OS) with a 3/4 HP,

120V motor. I've studied some books on adjusting and using it and I think I have it set up right.

It works fine when I cut through wood, including oak, up to about 2in. thick. But when I try cutting anything greater than about 3in. thick (even a 2X4) I have to push it very hard, feed it very slowly (15 seconds to go an inch) and the upper thrust bearing starts to scream.

This saw has a vertical cutting capacity of 6in. and I want to be able to use it to resaw oak planks up to that width. But the saw just won't do it now.

I'm using a 1/2in. wide, 4TPI, Timber Wolf blade, got it new, very little use so far. From what I can tell by looking at it, the teeth are not hooked, i.e. the teeth are not pointed down as they cut into the wood.

Duginske's book says that I should be using a blade with either hook or hook-skip teeth. I just called the manufacturer and they said they have a blade that will work, a 1/2in.,

3TPI blade for resawing but they don't know if it has hook teeth (!).

Does anyone know if hook teeth is really necessary in this case? Will hook teeth solve this problem? I know 3/4 HP is somewhat low, but it sure seems like this saw ought to be able to resaw a 2X4.

Thanks, Billy

[George]

Don't know that hook teeth are any better, but sounds as if you've got a very dull blade. For resawing dry wood, I found skip design to be adequate. For wet wood, and you have to presume construction grade stuff to be wet inside, and resinous wood, I find that the set in the teeth is the determinant of how well it cuts.

[WillR]

Sounds Like a dull blade...

You my want to order the catalog from these guys. The one I have=20 explains the blades very well

at the Band Saw blades and note this one.

"New Swedish Silicon Blades - 3/4"- NEW"

These thin kerf resaw blades are available from other suppliers as well.

--=20 Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art

power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20 who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

[Swingman]

I resaw with a 3 TPI, 1/2" skip tooth on my 14" Delta with riser:

blades, flat welds, and much less expensive than many of the boutique varieties. Highly recommended.

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Nah, it worked perfectly when he bought it 6 years ago.

[WillR]

I know what you mean. Mine had the same problem. lol

--=20 Will R. Jewel Boxes and Wood Art

power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20 who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

[lllilly]

Make sure the blade was not installed backwards. A new blade better cut more than a 2x4.

[mac davis]

Assuming the blade is sharp and properly installed (it IS easy to install it backwards/upside down) and the guides/bearings/tension/tracking/etc. are set up ok, you may be either feeding too fast or binding the blade... a tiny bit of wiggle or unevenness (is that a word?) can make the blade howl or bind up..

I have the 14" rigid, and cut bowl blanks out of green wood up to 8" thick with it... Knowing that it's a low-end, 3/4 hp saw, I use a good 3 tpi blade and use a LOT of patience... pushing too hard or turning too sharp can overload that 3/4 hp in a hurry.. YMMV

mac

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[Patrick Conroy]

"Billy Smith" wrote in news:d_oMe.6642$Al5.4008 @trnddc04:

Heresy, I know - but I ended up not being a big fan of Timerwolf's (wolves?)

For resawing, I took a chance on the WoodSlicer from Highland Hardware and really made some progress.

I have the Jet 14" closed stand saw. It's most likely my inability to setup the TimberWolf 1/2" -- but in any event, the WoodSlicer made resawing possible for me...

[Patriarch]

Patrick Conroy wrote in news:4c3ct2- [e-mail]:

A similar blade is often available in bulk, made up by your local sharpening service. I have such a blade in my Jet 16" saw, and the difference between that, and a Jet labeled blade would have you think that the saw had been replaced by a top -dollar Euro wonder.

I got mine at Hastings Saw in Rohnert Park, CA. They have a small simple advertisment in the back of Woodwork Magazine.

Patriarch

[mac davis]

I'll second that.... the blade that came on my rigid 14" made Harbor Freight blades seem like good quality...

I buy my blades from Ideal Saw Works in Fresno, Ca and for $13 to $20 they'll make whatever size/tooth/tpi blade for me while I wait and look at all the tools that I can't afford.. (and somehow manage to buy)

mac

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[Patrick Conroy]

Patriarch wrote in news:Xns96B5C563BF7BCpatriarchatcomcastdo@216.196.97.136:

T'anks... I'm thinking about trying the BC Saw route, as made popular by the not-too-distant-past FWW Article on bandsawing by that Canadian Feller... :)

Think he was using plain ol' Starrets, if I recall.

Anyhows - I'm on hold now thinking of whether to buy the riser and order

105" blades or stay with the 93 1/2"...

[mac davis]

I put the riser in my Rigid BS and have never regretted it... AFAIK, you don't LOSE anything (except for $50-60) by putting the riser in, and I think I feel more comfortable with the upper wheel being further away from the table.. Might be my height, or just a mental thing, but the saw just seems to "fit" me better now..

mac

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[Billy Smith]

I answered the question by trying a blade that was same as the one that did not work, i.e. 1/2 in. wide, 4TPI, but with hook teeth. Results: works like a charm. I even resawed through 6 in. of red oak. Unless something is wrong with the first blade, I guess the hook teeth make a big difference with this saw.

Thanks for the input.

--Billy

[mac davis]

My guess is that the 1st blade wasn't sharp... the hook shouldn't make that much difference.. I'm certainly no expert, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the no/very little hook was for smoother cuts... that might translate to a bit slower cut, but it should still do your stuff well if sharp..

mac

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