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I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you
divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance
putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4
face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

mark wrote:

For the small distances, dividers set to approximate measurement w/ refinement will nail the distance in only a couple of tries.

For longer measurements like several feet run on railings, I typically will do the same methodology but fix a midpoint or two and do the actual division between them. There's no hope of anybody picking out being off by a hair on the distance between the middle baluster and each end in a 10-ft run that way, for example.

--

That method won't give you the right spacing at each end will it?

I believe with your method you will end up with narrower distances on left and right side outer spaces. You have to subtract the combined width of all balusters from the total opening and divide that result by the number of desired spaces or the number of balusters + 1.

Actually if you read again what he wants he indicates,

I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4 face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

He details that he wants equal spacing between dividing objects. If he wants equal spacing between drawers and or balusters you have to take into consideration the total width of all of the objects that will divide.

No, dividing the "between the posts" area does not result in objects with equal spacing on both sides.

Draw it on paper and see what you get. The outer spaces will be narrower.

If the objects had no width your method would work.

For balusters (which presumably are of a uniform width), yes. For drawers in a case, which frequently are different heights, no.

You have to remember the width of the balusters if you want equal distances between each baluster.

If your face frame has a 48" opening and you want to put 3 equal width drawers in that space, and the face frame dividers are 2" wide, take 48" subtract 2x2" for the face frame dividers and divide the result by 3.

48"- 4" = 44" , 44" / 3 = 14.67" Spacing between each divider.

#### Site Timeline

- posted on April 20, 2009, 5:04 pm

- posted on April 20, 2009, 5:33 pm

For the small distances, dividers set to approximate measurement w/ refinement will nail the distance in only a couple of tries.

For longer measurements like several feet run on railings, I typically will do the same methodology but fix a midpoint or two and do the actual division between them. There's no hope of anybody picking out being off by a hair on the distance between the middle baluster and each end in a 10-ft run that way, for example.

--

- posted on April 20, 2009, 5:38 pm

That method won't give you the right spacing at each end will it?

- posted on April 20, 2009, 5:56 pm

mark wrote:

Of course -- it gives you the same measurement at however many number of spacings you choose. If you choose the intermediate-fixed-point method the only requirement is to make the number of intermediates chosen an even divisor of the total number of increments wanted so those points are at the proper position. Then if they're off by <1/32" which is pretty easy to hit, that minor amount when split over the distance is indetectible.

--

Of course -- it gives you the same measurement at however many number of spacings you choose. If you choose the intermediate-fixed-point method the only requirement is to make the number of intermediates chosen an even divisor of the total number of increments wanted so those points are at the proper position. Then if they're off by <1/32" which is pretty easy to hit, that minor amount when split over the distance is indetectible.

--

- posted on April 20, 2009, 6:05 pm

dpb wrote:

This method gives equal center-to-center distances. If your ballusters/dividers are not equal width, this method will give unequal spaces between the edges.

Chris

This method gives equal center-to-center distances. If your ballusters/dividers are not equal width, this method will give unequal spaces between the edges.

Chris

- posted on April 20, 2009, 6:19 pm

I believe with your method you will end up with narrower distances on left and right side outer spaces. You have to subtract the combined width of all balusters from the total opening and divide that result by the number of desired spaces or the number of balusters + 1.

- posted on April 20, 2009, 7:42 pm

Leon wrote:

No, it ends up w/ equal centerlines which is what OP asked for.

--

No, it ends up w/ equal centerlines which is what OP asked for.

--

- posted on April 20, 2009, 7:52 pm

Actually if you read again what he wants he indicates,

I must be making this more dificult than it really is. How do you divide a distance so it will have equally spacing. For instance putting ballusters between 2 post on a deck railing or putting 3 or 4 face frame dividers between drawers. Thanks for any help

He details that he wants equal spacing between dividing objects. If he wants equal spacing between drawers and or balusters you have to take into consideration the total width of all of the objects that will divide.

- posted on April 20, 2009, 8:00 pm

Leon wrote:
...

But if you measure from the inside of the corner posts, equal centerlines does the same thing w/o the extra measurements. You do, of course, have to count the proper number of spaces or objects, yes.

--

But if you measure from the inside of the corner posts, equal centerlines does the same thing w/o the extra measurements. You do, of course, have to count the proper number of spaces or objects, yes.

--

- posted on April 20, 2009, 8:23 pm

No, dividing the "between the posts" area does not result in objects with equal spacing on both sides.

Draw it on paper and see what you get. The outer spaces will be narrower.

If the objects had no width your method would work.

- posted on April 20, 2009, 10:37 pm

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 15:23:24 -0500, "Leon"

Correct!

To calculate the distance between centerlines, the width of one baluster has to be added to the width of the opening before calculating the spacing. Then, the distance from the edge of the opening to the centerline of the first baluster is the calculated centerline spacing minus 1/2 the width of the baluster. That first measurement is not from centerline to centerline but from edge of opening to centerline.

Example: 9 1" wide balusters in a 39" opening.

Number of equal spaces = number of balusters + 1 = 10 equal spaces

Distance between the centerline of two adjacent balusters = width of opening + width of one baluster divided by number of equal spaces = (39 + 1) / 10 = 40/10 = 4"

Open space between adjacent balusters = distance between centerlines - width of baluster = 4 - 1 = 3

Distance from edge of opening to centerline of first baluster distance between balusters - 1/2 width of baluster = 4 - 1/2 = 3 1/2.

That results in 9 balusters with 4" between centerlines and 3" openings between balusters and 3" between the end balusters and the edge of the opening.

Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA

Correct!

To calculate the distance between centerlines, the width of one baluster has to be added to the width of the opening before calculating the spacing. Then, the distance from the edge of the opening to the centerline of the first baluster is the calculated centerline spacing minus 1/2 the width of the baluster. That first measurement is not from centerline to centerline but from edge of opening to centerline.

Example: 9 1" wide balusters in a 39" opening.

Number of equal spaces = number of balusters + 1 = 10 equal spaces

Distance between the centerline of two adjacent balusters = width of opening + width of one baluster divided by number of equal spaces = (39 + 1) / 10 = 40/10 = 4"

Open space between adjacent balusters = distance between centerlines - width of baluster = 4 - 1 = 3

Distance from edge of opening to centerline of first baluster distance between balusters - 1/2 width of baluster = 4 - 1/2 = 3 1/2.

That results in 9 balusters with 4" between centerlines and 3" openings between balusters and 3" between the end balusters and the edge of the opening.

Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA

- posted on April 20, 2009, 9:33 pm

For balusters (which presumably are of a uniform width), yes. For drawers in a case, which frequently are different heights, no.

- posted on April 21, 2009, 12:07 am

On Mon, 20 Apr 2009 13:19:31 -0500, "Leon"

...do this and then cut a stick representing the space. Do a dry run to confirm...if there's any difference at the end compensate equally amongst the uprights (i.e., if I go thru the dry run and find I'm 5/8" long at the end and I have, say, 10 uprights, then I'll compensate roughly 1/16" per space to make up for the difference. Check once in awhile to see where I'm at. This way I can use the same stick throughout the project, eh?) Oh, the stick also comes in handy for a backer when you're nailing or screwing...

cg

...do this and then cut a stick representing the space. Do a dry run to confirm...if there's any difference at the end compensate equally amongst the uprights (i.e., if I go thru the dry run and find I'm 5/8" long at the end and I have, say, 10 uprights, then I'll compensate roughly 1/16" per space to make up for the difference. Check once in awhile to see where I'm at. This way I can use the same stick throughout the project, eh?) Oh, the stick also comes in handy for a backer when you're nailing or screwing...

cg

- posted on April 20, 2009, 5:36 pm

mark wrote:

Do you want equal spacing between centers, or equal "whitespace" between outside edges?

If the first, then measure center-to-center, divide by the number of gaps, and mark the centers.

If the second, measure inside-edge-to-inside-edge, subtract the combined width of all the ballusters/dividers, then divide by how many gaps there will be. When marking, you would then mark the gap, then the width of the balluster/divider, then the gap...

If your ballusters/dividers are all the same size, you can simplify the layout by taking the calculated gap and adding half the width of the balluster/divider. Marking multiples of this size will give you the centers of the ballusters/dividers.

Chris

Do you want equal spacing between centers, or equal "whitespace" between outside edges?

If the first, then measure center-to-center, divide by the number of gaps, and mark the centers.

If the second, measure inside-edge-to-inside-edge, subtract the combined width of all the ballusters/dividers, then divide by how many gaps there will be. When marking, you would then mark the gap, then the width of the balluster/divider, then the gap...

If your ballusters/dividers are all the same size, you can simplify the layout by taking the calculated gap and adding half the width of the balluster/divider. Marking multiples of this size will give you the centers of the ballusters/dividers.

Chris

- posted on April 20, 2009, 6:11 pm

You have to remember the width of the balusters if you want equal distances between each baluster.

If your face frame has a 48" opening and you want to put 3 equal width drawers in that space, and the face frame dividers are 2" wide, take 48" subtract 2x2" for the face frame dividers and divide the result by 3.

48"- 4" = 44" , 44" / 3 = 14.67" Spacing between each divider.

- posted on April 20, 2009, 6:31 pm

I don't know what it's called, but I saw a dude using an expanding
X frame (accordion style) to mark out equal spacings.

The device looks like this thing: <http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg

The device looks like this thing: <http://common.csnstores.com/Gatco-Accordion-Wall-Mirror-in-Chrome~img~GAT~GAT1158_l.jpg

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

Click to see the full signature.

- posted on April 20, 2009, 6:40 pm

- posted on April 20, 2009, 7:00 pm

Morris Dovey wrote:

That's it! Thanks, Mo (can I call you, Mo?) :-)

Except, his was bigger and longer. [insert "that's what she said," here]

That's it! Thanks, Mo (can I call you, Mo?) :-)

Except, his was bigger and longer. [insert "that's what she said," here]

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

Click to see the full signature.

- posted on April 20, 2009, 7:28 pm

RE: Subject

There is a straight forward graphical solution.

1) Draw a line at an angle, say 30 degrees to the intended line, that has been divided into the number of spaces req'd. (A)

2) Draw a line from the end of the line to be divided (B) to the end of the line that has been drawn at an angle (C).

3) Draw lines parallel to B-C that intersect the division points along A-C. These lines will equally divide A-B

Lew

There is a straight forward graphical solution.

1) Draw a line at an angle, say 30 degrees to the intended line, that has been divided into the number of spaces req'd. (A)

2) Draw a line from the end of the line to be divided (B) to the end of the line that has been drawn at an angle (C).

3) Draw lines parallel to B-C that intersect the division points along A-C. These lines will equally divide A-B

Lew

- posted on April 20, 2009, 7:03 pm

Morris Dovey wrote:

BTW, what are these called? The expanding "X" geometric concept?

I saw a name somewhere and can't think of it.

BTW, what are these called? The expanding "X" geometric concept?

I saw a name somewhere and can't think of it.

--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"

Click to see the full signature.

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