OK, I know that a direct drive is directly driven off the motor, and a belt drive runs off a belt attached to motor. But why would one bet better than the other? I gather that belt drive is preffered, but why? I'm looking at getting the Ryobi bts20. I was looking at the bts3100 but I don't like the table. One difference between the two is the drive, the 3100 is belt. Of course the bts20 is cheaper as well, but what's got my attention is the size and portablility. The Bts20 has a collapsable stand on wheels.
Now I'm a home owner who does the occasion job around the house, I'm building cabinets or anything. I've gotten a crafstman $160 unit, and the moter burnt out on it. this is why I'm wondering about the direct/belt deal. The BTS20 has a 14 amp moter, with 4800 rpm, same as the 3100.
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:ITzic.273$V_5.247 @newssvr16.news.prodigy.com:
Hey Edwin,
Thanks, it sounds like the direct drive will do me fine. I'm not worried about the noise, and I'll not be building any fancy furniture, an ocassional book shelf if that.
Most of what you find these days in direct drive are universals but not all.
Direct drives are inherently smoother. Less parts mean less vibration and belts are vibration causes, second only to chains. Idustrial machinery where lack of vibration (mainly grinders) is paramount use direct drive.
Another thing to think about...If the saw sees some unusual amount of stress, the belt may break saving the motor. Belts are cheaper than motors. Nuff said? Have fun ! Joe
On this one I have to agree with Edwin belt driven is the way to go. Every saw in the shop is belt driven. From the smallest installers saw all the way up to the sliding panel saws. On industrial saws you would not be able to have a large enough direct drive motor that would not interfere with blade height.
Sounds as if an inexpensive direct drive table saw would fit your needs. When buying a direct drive saw you are buying a disposable piece of equipment fore the cost of a replacement motor is usually just about equal to the cost of the total unit. With a belt drive there are many manufactures that make a motor that will fit, with a direct drive you are at mercy of the manufacture and will pay a much higher price for the replacement motor. With your limited needs, I would not worry about this. Good luck. Mike
Interesting thought but with most contractors saws with a single belt the belt is quite likely to slip if it is worn rather than break especially if the blade comes under a load. With a belt in good condition the motor is likely to stall. 3 belts on most cabinet saws are used to help prevent the slipping.
Time for my $.25. I'll not comment on the smoothness of DD vs belt, as I have no recent experience with belt. What I do have is a early '80's vintage DD Crapsman Contractor style with aluminum table & stamped steel wings that I purchased used about 5 yr. ago for < $200. This unit IS an induction drive, not universal, so is very quiet, and with a good blade is very smooth(I've had a couple blades that the saw wouldn't keep a lead weight on the table, never mind a nickel!). Probably the most improvement was a set of blade stabilizer washers, as the original stamped steel ones allowed a lot of wobble. This unit could definitely use some more power, but with a little care in feeding and using the right blade for the job, it has done everything I've asked of it.
I can definitely say that I would not care for one with a universal motor a'la my DW planer, routers, etc. They scream too much!
Yeah, but is the $900 Delta going to run smoother than the $400 Bosch, or the $450 Ridgid, or the...you get the idea. There is more money in the Delta for table, cabinet, fence than there is in any direct drive table saw, but there are features in direct drive that the so-called contractor's saw can never address, one being weight. At this moment, I have 4 direct drive saws in my shop, with more coming. I've been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the fences, the power of the motors (but they're still not as good as the true
1-1/2 HP motors on contractor's saws in terms of power), the overall handling, and the added new features. Fences are better, as noted: in addition, every single one so far has a pull out extension to get the cut to or past 24", with many having rear extensions. Several have fold up stands, stands that in the case of the Ryobi, Ridgid and Craftsman sort of turn the unit into a wheelbarrow style easy to roll device.
And every one of them has that cursed floppy top guard and splitter that is a PITA to install and remove and almost always needs re-adjustment on re-installation.
Still, for a first table saw, or for a table saw for someone with limited shop space, they'd be hard to beat.
The purpose for which they are now named, as exemplified by the Craftsman, is the job site. In other words, these are today's true contractor's saws, aimed at those who toss a saw into a truck at day's end and haul it out again in the morning. It's a lot more pleasant with 60 pounds than it is with 300.
I haven't yet measured arbor lengths on the saws so can't comment on arbor lengths.
Charlie Self "A long habit of not thinking a thing wrong gives it a superficial appearance of being right." Thomas Paine
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