I just use whatever square or bevel is handiest. Dim
the overhead lights, set a lamp on the saw table,
and try to kill the peep of light between the blade
and the gauge. According to Starrett's engineers,
if you have good eyes, that puts you within 50 millionths
of an inch of spot-on.
Think a custom cut triangle qualifies as a bevel, doesn't it?
The "line of light" technique is quite accurate, but my preference is
to compare freshly cut scrap piece against the complementary angle on
the table as opposed to the gauge angle against the blade.
If there is an error, it creates a "line of light" you could drive a
Mack truck thru.
(OK, a Peterbilt for the Texans)<G>
Be sure to use a violet light, since it has the shortest wavelength
still visible to human eyes.
Press both halves of the joint together and measure the dihedral
along both pieces. That'll multiply the error lots more.
A little transfixed about this aren't you? It's wood. From minute to minute
it's affected by expansion and contraction.
I've cut what I'd consider to be really tight tolerances in wood, but the
most I've ever needed has been 1/64" exactness. Maybe you don't consider
that very exact, but it's worked well for me as I suspect with most people.
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