Dial indicator with magnetic base

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On 1/24/2012 10:33 AM, Swingman wrote:

Hummmm a use for my mortiser that I had not thought of yet. ;~)
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"Bill" wrote in message
My original plan was to put the boards through my planer. But I understand now why that might not be "good enough". But I suspect it is if I'm willing to do diligently surface the "top". ==============================================================Run them threw the planer. Spread glue and clamp the shit out of it. I'm not kidding here. Titebond recommends 125 to 250 psi clamping pressure. The alternative is to hang around in here and let everybody convince you That you must do your glue up at the right time of the solar cycle, right part of the lunar cycle, stand in the middle of a regulation pentagram and do the correct chant to get a good glue up.
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On 1/23/2012 10:15 PM, Bill wrote:

Except for two 8/4 x 3-1/2" pieces of Poplar (Maple probably would have been better of course) face-glued together along the front side of my workbench (where the dog-holes are drilled), that's exactly how my workbench is constructed, and it works fine. Just get some nice straight-grained tubafours, joint one face and one perpendicular edge, run the opposite face through the planer, cut some biscuit slots in the faces to help with alignment during glue-up and you're good to go. I'd make the boards longer than you need so you can cut the planer snipe off the ends prior to glue-up.
I used 16 yellow pine two-by-fours, which after jointing and planing yields about 21" of width, along with the two Poplar boards on front for a total of about 24". As I recall, I glued them up in stages, maybe four at a time, until I had two slabs of 8 boards each, then I ran each slab through the planer to get the top and bottom faces relatively true, then glued those two slabs up to make the final 21" slab. Some minor cleanup with the Bailey No. 7 hand plane got the top surface true enough for a nice beater workbench.
Obviously not as nice as a full-blown Maple or Beech workbench, but if you're like me the thing is going to get LOTS of abuse, so other than gaining some extra durability by using hardwood I don't really see the need. I've beat the crap out of this thing and it's held up just fine. Oh BTW, I DID make my tail vise and front vise faces out of Maple though; I don't think Pine would be a very good choice there.
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On 1/24/2012 12:20 PM, Steve Turner wrote:

<ship>
Thanks for sharing your experience! The Poplar or Maple trim is a nice idea. I was intending to use breadboard ends as well.
I was wondering how the dog-holes would wear in "soft" wood. Does your workbench have any?
Bill
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On 1/24/2012 11:57 AM, Bill wrote:

Yes, that's the reason I mentioned that it probably would have been a better idea to use Maple instead of Poplar for the section along the front where the dog holes are drilled. Poplar is quite soft for a "hard" wood, and the metal springs in my Veritas bench dogs (http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p1127&cat=1,41637) have worn grooves into the wood over time that makes it difficult to turn them to some other orientation other than 90 degrees from the front of the bench (one of the main advantages to having round vs. square dog holes; but I don't want to start a war on that!). Maybe not a problem if you only plan to clamp squared lumber to your bench, but I build lots of goofy things like rocking chairs so I sometimes need to turn the bench dogs away from 90 degrees.
I also put breadboard ends on my bench, and I made those of Poplar too. No issues there.
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I agree with this... the only issue being getting the initial straight edge on the board to run along the fence for subsequent rips. Tacking a straight edge to the board, perhaps a steel stud, and running it along the fence to get that initial straight edge is one way to get around the need for a jointer...
John
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I was including both the "original saw setup" and "setting blade height for a specific cut, such as a dado or rabbet" concepts.

Yuppers.
Most table saw blades will leave a fine gluable line.

Prolly 3/4 of the world and most of our ancestors, Bill.
-- I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty. -- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807
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Larry Jaques wrote: Anyone out

I was just talking about youse guys. Did I mention I got to meet Tommy Mac? -- Nice guy; He seems to be trying hard.
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Who's Tommy Mac? (Quickly Googlin'...) Oh, I've never seen Rough Cut. I gave up teevee 5 years ago. Books are much quieter and are extremely more educational and fun.
-- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson
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On 1/24/2012 7:00 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:

Okay, I need to get going on my honing materials (strap/board). I need to hone woodcarving gouges and plane irons. When I went shopping online, I found I didn't understand the terminology (of leather). My uncertainty had to do with whether the leather was of uniform thickness or not. I would think leather between 1/8" and 3/16" thick seems right, because of my presumption that if it is too thick, there is greater risk of accidentally rounding the edge.
Can anyone recommend a suitable leather source/product for this purpose (cows excluded)?
Bill
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wrote:

Worry wart.

Tanned, 1" or wider is what I used. I think it was 10oz. 4-5mm or 3/16". http://tinyurl.com/7oabn8y I had bought scraps (5# for $5) from a carriage, chest, and harnessmaker back on the East coast. Glue the rough side down, smear some green on 'er, and hone away! I think mine's about 1-1/2" wide by 15" long on a piece of baltic birch plywood.
-- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Larry, Thanks for the suggestion/link. The vegetable-tanned leather doesn't sound like the right stuff, so I'm going try my old belt which is a full 1/8" thick (too) and convenient. Hopefully, the embossing won't be an issue. - W.W.
As always, thank you for your support!
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Veg, brain, or chrome, it don't think it matters for a strop. http://tinyurl.com/7t699yn

It will. I recommend against it, unless the back is smooth and can be charged.

That'll be $37.50. Got my account numbers? ;)
-- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Ratts! I was afraid of that.

I guess so, but I don't have $37.50 handy. ; )

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I know. You have failed to pay any of the other tickies, either. I'll add it to your bill, Bill.
-- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Thanks Larry, You are very kind!
In case anyone else is interested in building his or her own strop, I ordered an 8-9 oz (leather is not perfectly uniform thickness, hence the range), 8/64"-9/64" thick, 1 1/2" wide, 50" long, "Tandy" brand, vegetable-tanned strap, for about $17.50 including S&H. Product is available in alot of widths and from Amazon and E-bay.
It is merely my guess and hope that this item will be suitable for a strop. The basis for my guess is that unembossed belts are considered usable, and this is a "belt-blank". It's a carvable one at that, so I anticipate that it will have the suitable firmness/pliability.
Wikipedia has some useful information about leather. Cheers!
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That should work great. I zeenk you already bought zome of zee LVT green compound, oui? Merveilleux!

It will between the waxing gibbous and waning crescent phases of the moon, but -only- if you hold your mouth right.

It's a definite resource, isn't it?
-- The most powerful factors in the world are clear ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will. -- J. Arthur Thomson
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Now I need to find a quarter-sawn piece of Maple from the tree whose branches hung over the crossroads where Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil... Roadtrip!

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I finally broke down and bought a copy of that movie (and the movie of the same name starring a young Britney.) The former I bought primarily for the soundtrack, the latter for the jailbait almost T&A. ;) But seriously, she has one nice pai^H^H^Hvoice, doesn't she?
But forget about that wood. Mr. Legba, he doan like no woodchoppahs roun' his trees, y'heah?

Speaking of resources: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papa_Legba, complete with my reference.
-- Creativity can solve almost any problem. The creative act, the defeat of habit by originality, overcomes everything. -- George Lois
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Larry Jaques wrote:

I've got a RJ CD. Haven't seen the movie (didn't know there was one). I have a book of RJ tab too...but I never got very far with it. I'll lend it to you after you've got MJH straight.
I got to keep movin', I've got to keep movin' Blues fallin' down like hail, blues fallin' down like hail Umm-mm-mm-mm, blues fallin' down like hail, blues fallin' down like hail
And the day keeps on worrin' me, there's a hellhound on my trail Hellhound on my trail, hellhound on my trail...
I got to keep movin' got to keep on movin' Blues fallin' down like hail, blues fallin' down like hail Cause I gotta find, three times 12.50, to get his dogs outta jail, Um-Umm-mm-mm get his dogs outta jail, get his dogs outta jail....
And my leather's wearin' thin, while I go to, pay The Man his bail, pay The Man his bail, pay The Man his bail...
The former I bought primarily

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