I went to the WoodWorking Shows this weekend. Roland Johnson, from FWW,
was recommending a tool like in the subject line (none in particular)
for doing TS set-up. I would like to use it to measure run-out too.
Thus, I anticipate very occasional use. I saw this one at Grizzly:
Similar item also listed at Amazon, Lee Valley, Peach Tree WW, and
several others listed too, including Harbor Freight, but just by looking
at them, they look like they have come from the same source. Lots of
reviews say they are very fragile (at the joint) and are easily stripped
and fall apart.
At least if I buy it at Harbor Freight, I would have to go far to return
it if it falls apart in 30 days.
Any words of advice on this item here (can you recommend one)?
This may in fact be a better solution since the other one has issues.
This solution appears to be in the $50-60 range when you include a dial
indicator and P&H. I can probably budget for that. Perhaps I can
recover some of these expenses from my first sale! ; ) Thanks for the
The dial is plenty useful
The base-holder arrived in the mail today. The overall quality exceeds
my expectations: It locks down tight and is more rugged than the picture
shows. Thank you for menioning this product, FH! I noticed that it
does not apper in Grizzly's new catalog and I'm not sure whether it was
in their old one. The link above takes one right to it, of course.
FH, I just noticed your reference to "shop made jigs" above. Could you
share an idea or two of how you found the dial useful?
Huh? Tablesaw setup? You'd want a DI set up on a miter slot for
that, wouldn't you? Or a height gauge?
They all seem to work fine, so grab what's closest. Since they measure
relative distances, the precision is in the dial indicator and they
all can read 0.001" (or 0.01mm) easily enough.
I bought the HF components for $5.99 each locally on sale.
They're more nowadays: http://tinyurl.com/3wvus3t
Then there's the DEEluxe version: http://tinyurl.com/7cqhwh5
I'd never seen -that- one before.
I have the consolation of having added nothing to my private fortune during
my public service, and of retiring with hands clean as they are empty.
-- Thomas Jefferson, letter to Count Diodati, 1807
I think he (Roland Johnson) pushed the indicator in the miter slot
passed a 90-degree blade to check the horizontal alignment, and passed
it by a tilted (say 45-degree blade) to check vertical alignment. He
said most modern blades are near perfectly flat due to modern
technology. Concerning your comment: Height seems immaterial except
calibrating the height of the adjustor (or if you're checking vertical
alignment that way)?
I think he had a jig he made out of some acrylic sort of stuff. Maybe
most any sled would work if there is a place to hold the indicator base.
I think I had some misconceptions about what a TS could do. I think I
was expecting it could produce a decent edge for gluing. And I guess it
can, but a jointer is evidently (much) better. Either I get a jointer
or I learn to sharpen and use my Stanley planes (I've collected
#4-5-6-7-8 and some 5 1/4's, and some for parts...lol). Anyone out
there making furniture with no power jointer?
Yes a well tuned cabinet saw with the right balde can easily make
clean enough cuts for glue jointing. It takes very gppd technique to
never have small edge outs but it can be done.
When I was doing lots of really big edge glued butcher block tops I
would rip all the maple very carefully. The I would only join the
pieces that showed and edge gaps when getting ready for glue up. I got
pretty good after a while.
Here's a theoretical question. : )
Supposed I planned to glue 12-15 8' planks of southern yellow pine
2by-lumber face-to-face to make a bench top. I have 15 pipe clamps.
Should I expect to joint the faces in order to end up with a
I'll surely make a mini-version for small table or something, to learn
my lessons on the cheap.
Lew put the idea above for this benchtop in my head a couple years ago
and it's still there. No matter how the table ends up being built, at
least the idea has been there to inspire me while I cut my teeth.
If you are careful to select stock w/o much wind or any short bends and
glue up in sections should work perfectly well for the purpose. I'd
glue up sections that could still get thru the planer (or find someone
w/ a large thickness sander) to clean up the tops before the final glueup.
... and scroll most of the way down the page to the date 3/20-25/04 to
get one idea on how to do an extra wide panel glue-ups.
Note: jointing the edges of couple of 2 x 4's, and attaching them,
jointed side up, to a flat surface; then using the jointed surface of
the 2x 4's to support the glue-up, serves a dual purpose ... in both
helping to keep things flat, and allowing you to alternate clamping
pressure from top and underneath so that all your clamping force is not
across one surface:
Some nice ideas there, Swing. Thank you. Your use of biscuits was a
nice way to get the results you wanted. I'm unprepared to make those,
but I could substitute threaded-rod (s) though the wood. Either method
could backfire I suppose if one is fighting tension in the wood. But the
jointing your did and your use of use quarter-sawn materials almost
eliminates all possible worries! : )
Always w/ the swingman... :)
I'm partial to either routing or using the shaper and the glue joint
cutter or a tapered wedge for the alignment on larger stuff--then one
doesn't have to worry about trying to align the individual biscuits one
to another--there's a guide along the whole edge. And, as a side
benefit, there's the additional glue surface area (not that it really
will need it, but still...).
Jeeze, Swingy. Couldn't you have taken care to match board lengths a
bit better. <silly grinne>
The most powerful factors in the world are clear
ideas in the minds of energetic men of good will.
-- J. Arthur Thomson
LOL Method to Madness: There's a considerable amount of money tied up in
that table top of 8/4 QSWO.
Therefore the longest board of each sub-component's separate pass
through the planer gets any snipe, and well into the cutoff zone.
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