dial indicator uses?

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I bought a dial indicator to use in setting up my new table saw. The saw is in damn fine shape, and now I'm wondering what else I might do with this gizmo.
I didn't turn up a handy dandy "So you bought a dial indicator. Now what?" site. It seems to be a tool of 10,000,001 uses, so what are the other 9,999,999?
1. Align saw blade to miter slot.
2. Align rip fence to miter slot.
3. ???
(I don't have a magnetic base or any other gadgetry. If I require additional gadgetry, it should ideally be something I can cobble up with standard steel stock, a metal-cutting bandsaw, and various fasteners. Nothing too exotic if I can help it, and no welding please.)
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Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < snipped-for-privacy@users.sourceforge.net>
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Silvan wrote:

Michael...
You can use it to check "roundness" and "straightness" of things that rotate. You can make a holder to hold it at different increments of height and set router bit and table saw blade height to the accuracy of the indicator/stability of the holder (you /will/ eventually spend for the magnetic base :-)
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wrote:

You could look outside of woodworking.
Depending a bit on the kind of indicator it is, it's a great tool for when you're hand-grinding your own telescope mirror!
Just for the early stages though. I got one for that purpose and it sits idle now.
They're really accurate AND specialized. Betcha a machine shop can tell you how many ways they're useful.
James snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com
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On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 01:09:03 -0500, Silvan

see my post on the table saw analness thread...
a lot of the holding setups can be achieved just fine with nuts and bolts, blocks of wood and C clamps.
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Bridger wrote:

That's a thread I'd rather avoid. Turned into a dick measuring contest. They must have unhappy wives.

As has been stated you will get a mag base eventually. If only to have the arm, post and clamps that come with it. The clamp and arm are more important than the base.
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Mark

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Mark wrote:

I've got to agree with that. If all you need is a mag base, grab the flat, circular magnet from a floppy drive and use that. Good magnet, and it recycles dead drives.
Dave in Fairfax
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reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
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wrote:

I was in one of those once, it required a survey crew.
Barry
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I think you got big balls saying something like that!
Gary <g>
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Mark wrote:

If I don't really need a magnet thingie, I can make something functionally equivalent to the rest of the thing, it looks like.
I've spent too much money lately. I'm in a making stuff out of junk mode now. So I can have some money to actually buy lumber. Sometimes I forget what the point of all this really is. :)
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Silvan wrote:

You should know this instinctively: "he who dies with the most toys wins". You don't need no steenking wood.
I've been in the same mode recently and have spent several thousand dollars on tools since Christmas. Somebody asked me at work what I was going to build with them. "I can't afford to buy any wood yet." It doesn't matter; if I die tomorrow, I've got the stuff. Who says you can't take it with you? I'm getting a trailer to pull all this behind me when I croak.
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Mortimer Schnerd, RN wrote:

LMAO!! Where can I get me a trailer like that? What kind of hitch do I need?
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I often use one to accurately set up incremental positions on my table saw or shaper fence. I use a magnetic base to hold it in this application, but you could make some sort of wodden base that would work as well.
I have a picture of this setup on my website. See it here:
http://www.the-wildings.com/shop/jigs/fingerbd2.jpg
Joe in Denver my woodworking website: http://www.the-wildings.com/shop /

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Align your drill press, attach to tablesaw/fence for accurate small incremental adjustments. Use it to check the runout of the arbor on your saw, etc.
John
On Fri, 05 Mar 2004 01:09:03 -0500, Silvan

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Get the magnetic base, they are only about $20 Cdn. I use it to set up my jointer blades, and verify the blade on the table saw is at 90 deg. to the table. To do that you need to build a small jig to hold the guage. The base of the jig goes against the blade at table height and the dial indicator touches the blade near the top. Adjust it to zero and then move it to the other side of the blade. If it is zero your blade is good if not it is something other than 90 deg.
Rick
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In fact, you can find them for less that $10 if you look hard on the web (not counting s&h)
John
On Fri, 5 Mar 2004 10:36:16 -0500, "Rick Gibson"

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Rick Gibson wrote:

good if not it is something other than 90 deg.
I'm liking this idea, since I'm going through a period of not trusting any of my squares to be really square. I want to get the saw as close to dead perfection as I can, just for the goofy thrill of it.
So the indicator is rigged up so that the base smacks butt up against the blade I guess. That seems the only way to ensure keeping the distance from the indicator to the blade the same. The problem I'm seeing with that idea is that it would have to straddle the insert more on one side than the other. My insert isn't perfectly flat, and not perfectly parallel to the table surface. The best I could do was settle for not having it stick up anywhere. So that would throw the measurement out of whack, it seems.
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Here are 5:
http://www.shopnotes.com/main/article-dialindicator.html
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Use it to set the height of your jointer knives.
Bernie

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Bernie Hunt wrote:

No planer, no jointer, no bandsaw. I'm depraved.
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Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < snipped-for-privacy@users.sourceforge.net>
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On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 02:31:37 -0500, Silvan wrote:

You're also deprived. Pretty attractive package you've got goin' on there! ;^)
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Joe Wells


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