depth gauge


can anybody give me info on an inexpensive depth gauge to be used with table saw and router table.
All the commercially available units appear to be so expensive and quite often not available in Australia.
I did have one unit that looked like a single upright gallows but it was mm's off in accuracy (it was made somewhere in Asia).
Some type of home made model would be superb.
Thanking you and have a lovely day.
Arthur
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table
I use one of these purchased quite a few years ago from Lee Valley Tools. Admittedly, the price has gone up considerably over when I bought mine, but it's a tremendously handy height gauge.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p0074&cat=1,240,41064
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Maybe this ?? http://www.schsons.com/kits/ce_depth_gauge.html
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I would suppose machinists the world over use something similar. Sure is a great way to check almost anything. Touch gages and a setup block. Love 'em. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&pE089&cat=1,240,41064
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That'd be my vote, too. If you're trying to do it very cheaply, you can use the shanks of drill bits for short heights, and cut a bunch of maple (or whatever hardwood you happen to have) blocks to the right sizes for larger measurements. Blocks work a lot better than the setup gauges, IMO.
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Blocks work a lot better than the

Wonder what the metric equivalent of the 1-2-3 block is?
Do they go 25-50-75 or 20-40-60? Any of the folks in metric places know?
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table
Might be too simplistic for your needs but the typical Stanley Folding Wood Rule has a depth gauge in the first segment. I figure if it's accurate enough for taking measurements, it's accurate enough for a depth gauge. IIRC, Sears sells one too.
hth,
Vic
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"aalchin" wrote in message

table
The following is posted so you can get an idea of one approach:
http://www.woodsmithstore.com/setupgaugekit.html
I made a similar one to the above, and based on the same principle, from a magazine article a few years back. It looks like an upside down slingshot, using some plywood, a piece of Plexiglas from a cheap picture frame, a six inch ruler, and an earth magnet ... for a total cost of less than ten bucks.
http://e-woodshop.net/images/setupjig1.jpg
http://e-woodshop.net/images/setupjig2.jpg
It is as accurate as the ruler that you use. You can barely see the red "zero line" inscribed on the Plexiglas at the top of the ruler.
Cheap, and handy for setting up saw blades and router bits.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/07/05
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I made one similar to yours a couple of years ago for my dad, but i finished it off flush with the top of the ruler so used upside down it can measure the depth of grooves, the thickness of a piece of wood etc. and it can then transfer the height very easily to the saw or router. it had a small screw to lock the ruler in place as well and the gauge body was made from aluminium with recessed magnets to hold the rule and plexi front. must get around to making another for myself now :)
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On Tue, 23 Aug 2005 07:29:23 +1000, the opaque "aalchin"

Here ya go:
Mount one of these on a sliding holder so the caliper body can move up and down to rest on the blade. Slide the jaw down so it touches the zero clearance plate and you have your height.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber953 $4.99 or $15.99 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumberV47
Or get one of these nice little jobbers: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p0074&cat=1,240,41064 Man, they've gone up in price!
Here's one from Griz that's priced right: http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=g2858
---------------------------------------------------------- --== EAT RIGHT...KEEP FIT...DIE ANYWAY ==-- http://www.diversify.com/stees.html - Schnazzy Tees online ----------------------------------------------------------
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aalchin wrote:

For about 80% of my set ups I use a combination square.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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aalchin (in 430a43b6$0$64233$ snipped-for-privacy@lon-reader.news.telstra.net) said:
| can anybody give me info on an inexpensive depth gauge to be used | with table saw and router table. | | All the commercially available units appear to be so expensive and | quite often not available in Australia. | | I did have one unit that looked like a single upright gallows but | it was mm's off in accuracy (it was made somewhere in Asia). | | Some type of home made model would be superb.
It's not home-made, but here's a photo of mine being used to set up my router table fence (with a 1-2-3 block) at
http://download.usenet-replayer.com/7/7/2/2/1121412277.64.jpg
This particular gauge is a cheapie (~$30) labeled "hardened stainless" and looks like a sibling to the digital calipers sold by Lee Valley - but I don't know who makes it.
I bought it from one of KBC, Enco, or Grizzly (but can't remember which.) It's accurate and easy-to-use.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
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aalchin wrote:

two squares clamped together. the big one is set so that the zero mark is against the table top. the little one is clamped with the blade perpendicular to the first blade (parallel to the table top).
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Actually, you need three squares in that case. The third one is to ensure the second one is perpendicular to the first one. :)
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On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 02:31:23 -0400, Upscale wrote:

Perpendicularity is irrelevant and the third square is at least one too many.
Use a straight edge (the table top is likely a suitable straight edge) to assure that one edge of the blades are in the same plane. IF the squares are true, then perpendicularity is guaranteed. Two lines, each perpendicular to a third line, are parallel to each other.
Alternatively, nest the beam of one against the blade of the other. Same result, more simply derived. In this case, the third line is supplied by the blade of the first square at the point where it meets the beam of the second one.
However, even if they aren't perpendicular, all is not lost. Just be sure to take your measurement of height at the same point the cutting tool made contact at and not at the scale. (Should ignore the scale anyways.)
I'd skip the Veritas gage unless you are only going to make their preset cuts. If you have to set up the other cuts, why bother?
He could simply make a planer gage. Two wedges, one has a leg parallel to the base of the other. Done. Touch the offset leg to the cutting tool and measure against any flat surface (such as the tool table).
Look in a metal tooling catalog and copy in hardwood.
Are we having fun yet?
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A planer gage is what I use. Do mostly CNC work these days so the planer gage is a lot handier at home than at work.

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Clever idea from WoodSmith.
http://woodsmithtips.com/l/1176a-186548
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

my dial caliper has a depth probe on the end. In fact, all of them do. (All of mine).
--
 GW Ross 

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