Delta 36-444 care questions

[tillius]

OK, got my TS set up, but I have a couple of questions before I get started.

1. On the Delta 36-444, I looked at the insert and noticed it's not held down by screws. If I were to make my own 0 clearance insert out of hardwood, is it safe just to sit it in there like the metal one that came with the saw? If not6, how should I hold it down?

1. What is safe to use to clean the surface of the saw table? There are little (i guess peices of plastic) stuck to the table, I can fleck them off with my fingernail, but I'm not sure if I should use a cleaner or just buff the table out with steel wool.

2. What should I lubricate the table surface with? I know I shouldn't use oil or silicone as it can stain/damage my wood making finishing harder to accomplish, and I know they make spray's for lubricating the table, but since all I have here is the borgs, I'll have to wait for those sprays to come mail order. Is there something else that will work well to lubricate the surface?

1. Is silicone lubricant ok for the fence rails, or should I use something else? recommendations?

thanks for you help.. I'm just soooo excited that I won't be using my crapsman benchtop anymore... wooohoooo!

Tillman

[Edwin Pawlowski]

The rear of the insert has a pin that goes under the table casting. That is all that is needed. If you use 1/2" MDF you put leveling screws in the bottom that contact the supports and a screw in the back as hold down. Unisaw100 posted simple instructins on how to make inserts. Cheap, easy, work well. If you'd like a copy of it, email me.

Kersosene, lamp oil, WD-40, mineral spiriits.

Paste wax, like the stuff used on floors. Get some Top Cote or Boeshield for better protection.

Don't know. I've not lubricated mine yet. I'd probably use wax. Ed

[Bay Area Dave]

put a pin at the back of the insert to keep it from rising out of place in the event of an "event".

never use silicone. use paste wax like SC Johnson's. buff it slick. DON'T use automotive waxes; they invariably contain silicone.

wax the rails just like the top.

HAVE FUN!

dave

tillius wrote:

[Toller]

Reportedly silicone can contaminate the wood and make finishing difficult.

[Bernard Randall]

Congratulations on the saw. Bies recommend paste wax monthly for all surfaces of their fences.

Bernard R

[Jim Polaski]

I've used a can of paste "Bowling Alley Wax" from the local hardware on my cast iron for years. No problems and it goes on the TS, fences etc. and does nothing for the wood. I even use the wax on my Martin guitars and Gibson mandolin.

[Pop Rivet]

...

...

Never had the problem. I've used Simoniz for years on all my tools from TS to lathe for protecting the metal and never had any wood finishing problems. Is that because I saw with finish-side up most of the time, plus sanding, or am I just lucky with the wax, or what? I wax my equip from end to end of the shop twice a year, have for 30 years. I also used Turtle Wax in a pinch a few times. Course, it wore off a lot quicker and noticeably, but didn't give me any wood finish problems.

Just curious what you guys think of that. NOT a guru here by any means, & got a LOT to learn yet! This ng's helped a lot.

Pop

[Bay Area Dave]

Martin guitar? Nice... I rented one for a couple of weeks because all my worldly possessions were in transit overseas, including my Gibson. The Martin was one FINE sounding git! I loved the sound of a buddy's 12 string Epiphone too, but that sucker was hard to play. (those were the days...)

dave

Jim Polaski wrote:

[George]

You probably use oil-based finishes. No beef with them, as the solvent works fine - non-polar. Lacquer and shellac, with their solvents don't like the stuff, and the solvent can't disperse it.

Don't use water-based, but I'll bet they'd hate it.