DC layout - will I ever want a belt or disk sander?

Page 2 of 2  
wrote:

Duh! <sound of hand slapping forehead>
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

it's hard to sand straight with any belt sander. only if the belts are pretty fresh. as usual it tends to round over things. the belt well usually cut on the ends faster then in the middle same with the edges of the belt.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

heat is the issue. the longer the belt the less heat buildup so the faster you can run it. it will last far longer too. but if you run a smaller belt faster the heat will burn the wood and make the belt wear far faster.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net wrote:

Maybe the question should be:
How do I set up my ducting to allow for expansion?
Sooner or later you WILL add some sort of dust producing tool, or maybe just re-arrange the ones you have.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:35:47 GMT, Larry Kraus

I leave an extra "wye" fitting at every dead end, with a short piece of pipe and a cap duct taped to the extra hole.. Adding more duct is easy. My system is PVC, so the fittings are cheap enough.
The extra opening also facilitates removing the occasional blockage.
Barry
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:35:47 GMT, the inscrutable Larry Kraus

Abbalooley.
Buy a complete DC kit from www.Grizzly.com for $56 + s/h. http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=G3182 or Buy 50' of duct through Amazon.com for $28 (+ free shipping!) Buy Y adapters and clamps. Cut and paste into whatever config you want.
NOTE: The vinyl tubing from Amazon comes from Penn State and reeks to high heaven when you open the 4' long box. I took my coil and strung it across my patio overnight to let the vinyl smell diminish. That helped a -whole- lot. It's the flexible type with a wire core which tries to contract when a vacuum is applied, so lay/hang and brace it accordingly.
-------------------------------------------- Proud (occasional) maker of Hungarian Paper Towels. http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Design =====================================================
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
4" stuff is not really going to cut it. I'm using 6" s&d pipe/fittings with 6" flex.
see, http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/Ducting.cfm
There are also many limits given the size of DC and piping, so I'm taking that into consideration. Bottom line.. minimize duct lengths.. minimize bends.. minimize flex
I'm trying to have one main run straight of the DC and then wye into it only. But it seems I'm going to need to do a 45 jog to move the line to the perimiter of the building to keep the duct out of the work area
| | / / | |
Along that run, will be wye's to the TS, jointer, BS, DP, MS
On Sun, 06 Feb 2005 14:23:10 -0800, Larry Jaques

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.