DC duct work question

[Mike Dembroge]

Will the screws used to join sections of duct work together for a dust collector cause problems down the road? They protrude into the duct work fairly deeply and so I was wonding if planer or jointer shavings could get snagged on them and accumulate over time. I'm using standard 1/2" or so ductwork screws. Maybe a shorter screw? Maybe not worry about it?

I know there are probably better duct work systems that don't go together with screws, but I've already got this stuff (from Oneida) and so using something else is not an option.

Thanks in advance,

Mike

[dpb]

If it's 3" or larger (as I would presume it is from Oneida) they're a pretty small fraction of the diameter and there are only 2/3 at any one joint anyway. I'd probably use a 3/8" or so instead of half if I were buying, but if I already had the others don't know that I'd stop.

I think it'll be no problem.

And, of course, you could probably get away with none in most locations and simply use the high-quality HVAC seal tape (not "duck" tape) and do away w/ the screws entirely unless you need/want disassembly.

Might need a couple here and there if the joints aren't horizontal for the security, but other than that could probably dispense w/ them almost entirely...

imo, ymmv, $0.02, etc., etc., ... :)

[marc rosen]

Hey Mike, I'm using 4 inch plastic pipe and the screws I use will only protrude about 1/8 inch into the lumen of the pipe after going through a connector and the wall of the inner section. Dust is no problem for protusions but if you get a chip it could eventually cause more damming so try to minimize the protrusions as much as possible (i.e. shorter screws or a few washers on tthe outside)

Marc

[digitect]

Try pop rivets, $10 at Harbor Freight will buy the tool and all you need.

[Mike Dembroge]

Yeah, I thought about pop rivets, but then the system will be much harder to modify and take down if/when I move shops. For the sake of flexibility, I think screws are still better. Also, pop rivets aren't all that smooth on the inside. They're probably still about 1/2 the profile inside the duct.

[tom]

Try not to place any fasteners along the very bottom of the duct, and you'll be fine. One at twelve, four and eight o'clock will do. Tom

[mac davis]

IMHO, instead of waiting until 2 or 3 of the $10 riveters break, get a good Stanley or other name brand for $20 or $30 and find out how pop riveting is SUPPOSED to be.. DAMHIKT

mac

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[Bill Leonhardt]

Mike,

I have a main trunk of 5" diameter metal spiral ducting in my system and several 4" diameter braches of the same material. I also have some 4" PVC drainage pipe. All are joined by....wait for it....DUCT Tape. My system has been in use three years and no problems. No internal obstructions.

I also haven't grounded my system, so, by the time you read this, I may have already blown myself up. :-)

Bill Leonhardt

[digitect]

For cheap tools (

[mac davis]

I bought a set of "professional" ones at HF... pop rivets and threaded inserts..

Even as a big fan of HF, I have to say that they weren't worth buying, for any price..

mac

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[Morris Dovey]

mac davis wrote: | On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 22:10:44 GMT, digitect | wrote: | || On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 08:14:43 -0700, mac davis wrote: ||| On Mon, 16 Jul 2007 00:46:00 GMT, digitect wrote: |||| |||| Try pop rivets, $10 at Harbor Freight will buy the tool and all |||| you need. ||| ||| IMHO, instead of waiting until 2 or 3 of the $10 riveters break, ||| get a good Stanley or other name brand for $20 or $30 and find ||| out how pop riveting is SUPPOSED to be.. DAMHIKT || || For cheap tools (

[mac davis]

For sure.. like I said, I buy a LOT of stuff at HF..

My $20 brad nailers have been working well for years and it's the only place I'll buy clamps... you just have to be careful of WHAT you buy there.. There's a huge difference between inexpensive and cheap... I've been trying to kill my HF belt/disk sander for about 5 years now and it won't quit... OTOH, I won't buy sanding belts, bandsaw blades, etc. there...

mac

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