David's Kitchen part three (w/8 pics)

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

I'm a stippler for joints where ever and when ever possible.

I hate screwing wood together. :-(

[Troy]

David; I noticed in this shot you had a "project calculator" sitting there. I just bought one of those as I don't want my $100 calculator sitting around the shop, but it reminded me of why I bought it. I buy boards dimensionally frequently and then need to cut them down to 3/4" x 3/4" x 5" pen blanks. Will that calculator tell me how many I can get? Also how many board feet I need to make N blanks? That way I can tell my manufacturing program how much potential inventory and scrap I have.

Troy

David F. Eisan wrote:

[Troy]

David, I have a really old cabinet that I put my belt sander on. I'm concerned about a few things...

1) its got little wooden wheels at the bottom so I'm wondering how to best keep it from moving away.

2) The drawers it had were just wood on wood sliding drawers and pretty much disintegrated. I still have some of the fronts. I was thinking about changing the drawer area to be more efficient for its new life. Like maybe to hold belts and discs and miter.

3) I also want it to hold my sheets of sand paper in an organized manner. One thing of Sandpaper I have comes in this small box ( photo below ).

4) would be REALLY nice if I could use it for my grinder as well. I would be using it to sharpen my lathe chisels frequently. And I use the sanding disc for straightening the ends of blanks if need be, so that would give me both my tools close by. And they sort of are related.

Here's a pic of my grinder...

cart is here... 'd appreciate any tips.

Troy p.s. I'm a VERY beginning woodworker.

[David F. Eisan]

Evening all,

I have not had much time to work on my kitchen of late, we had a DeWALT day at work two weeks ago and of course, last weekend was the Woodstock woodshow. Those two events ate heavily into my ww'ing time.

I did sneak in a little time here or there to work on the face frames, and tonight I finished building them.

A shot of some dressed poplar just ripped and about to be crosscut to length,

rails and stiles are 1-3/8" wide, except for where there is an end panel covering a melamine side, there the stiles are 2-1/8". The stiles overhang the edge of each cabinet 1/8", this make installing much easier. Also, why strive for a "perfect" fit, when you can allow for an overhang that give a little fudge factor.

Next shot is just making the pocket holes in the ends of the rails,

I said in a previous post, I was lucky enough to be able to borrow this electric Kreg Forman pocket hole machine, but even the basic $29 pocket rocket will get the job done.

My math was giving me some trouble, so I decided to dead reckon the rail measurements for one face frame, the Kreg right angle clamps came in handy,

used the Kreg bench clamp to hold the joints together while I ran the screws in,

a perfect world, this would be mortised into a large assembly table, but even with the way I was using it, life was much easier with it.

Once all the face frames were build I glued Kreg plugs into the holes,

is an overall shot of the seven cabinets and their face frames,

this weekend I will get the face frames sanded and start painting them.

Thanks for looking,

David.

Every Neighbourhood has one, in Mine I'm Him.

[Swingman]

Many feel that way out of ignorance of this particular joinery method.

Pocket hole joinery is just that, "joinery", has been in use for few hundred years, and is even seen in "fine furniture" of the 19th and 19th centuries.

While you might "hate" it, the reality is that pocket hole screws are the optimum joint for some tasks, kitchen cabinet face frames being one of the best examples.

Pocket hole technology provides just the right amount of strength for this job, with the FF and carcass reinforcing each other as well as with any other joint, including M&T joinery.

[Vic Baron]

Looks like they're coming along quite well, David. Can't wait to see the finished product.

Question tho - what's your procedure for installing the Kreg plugs? I have had little success at same. Always seem to have a LOT of the plug sitting proud of the surface. After the glue dries I sand them flush but it seems a lot of work. Just wondering if there's an easier way that's so simple I just overlooked it?

Vic

[David F. Eisan]

Vic,

Look at this photo,

you see the little Kreg jig? On the bottom of it the profile of the plug, you use that little reverse fingernail (the part/end where glus is smudged) to engage the pointy part of the plug to push it in.

Take care,

David.

[Jerry]

Curious as to why it was necessary to plug the pocket holes. They go on the inside of the FF right?

David F. Eisan wrote:

[Vic Baron]

Ah! Got it now -

Thanx!

[Swingman]

Yep.

On traditional face frame cabinets, the FF pocket hole joint is usually in the recess just below/above the cabinet floor/top (where under counter lighting usually resides, or up by the ceiling; or behind where the intermediate drawer rails meet the stiles), where they will never be seen, so there is usually no need, other than personal preference, to plug them.