snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
It's not too bad. The sawdust and foam dust do go all over with a regular saw, but the foam dust isn't really all that staticy.
Puckdropper
Perhaps it depends on the type of foam. I always fight foam blobs whenever I break up foam packing material. Static is a problem with may plastics. Ever cut Plexiglas with a power saw? :-(
I use the foam insulation board that has the film on both sides. But a little of the foam gets out but not much, probably more saw dust than foam.
To the OP:
The most basic thing I have not heard anyone mention, so I feel like someone needs to.
NEVER cut a piece of lumber with the circ saw between the supports. One side of the cut must be free to fall away due to gravity, or at the very least it can be laying flat on support like the grid or Styrofoam ideas. Cutting between the supports WILL cause kick-back EVERY time.
Sorry if that was too basic.
On Monday, December 9, 2013 3:17:56 AM UTC-5, Morgans wrote: (snip)
Not at all too basic - NOTHING'S too basic for me, just starting. I will in the future either allow fall-away or use solid support with a sacrifice surface beneath if I need a production-grade cut mid-board. Thanks to all!
Agree on the sled. I have a 4' and 8' version of the saw guides pictured here. They work well.
I usually try to have two sacrificial 2x4s around for things like this. The 2x4s sit across the sawhorses with the plywood sitting on the 2x4s, running the length of the plywood.
As with the foam sheet, you set the blade depth to just clear the gullets of the teeth. The blade only cuts into the 2x4s about a 1/4-1/2" and they still fully support the plywood with no "drop-off" section and no need to worry where the sawhorses are positioned.
That's similar to what I have, but rather than thicker mine are thinner so I get the max depth on cuts. I used tempered hardboard.
It's efficient and does what I need.
If you make a saw guide like this, take the extra time and effort to make darn sure it's straight. I have yet to see a 1x4 that was straight. You might be better off to use the factory edge of a good sheet of plywood for the guide fence.
If you do use a 1x4 or similar wood stock, use something you know is straight as a reference when attaching it to the thinner plywood sheet. Or take care to strike a good, clean line with a chalk-line first.
However you do it, it should be checked after making the first cut by placing the guide on a long surface, scribing a line along the newly cut guide edge. Then rotate the whole thing 180degrees, and align it to the line you just scribed. Scribe a new line very close to or on top of the first line. Inspect the two lines. If they are perfectly parallel or on top of one another, your guide is straight. If they do not stay parallel, but look like very elongated parentheses (curving in or out), the guide is not straight.
If you will be using this cutting guide to rough cut sheathing for framing carpentry, then don't worry about doing this check. If you're using the guide for cutting finish plywood for cabinets and bookcases, etc., it will be well worth your effort to take these additional steps in making your guide. Even a minute error that makes your guide non-straight will multiply itself, creating poor joinery and gaps in seems.
No static, sticking it to everything in the room? Whenever I touch styrofoam packing, it's all over the place, sticking to anything that's non-metallic.
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