Dadoo question

I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of plywood.

I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down to the final depth?

If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?

Thanks

Ted

Reply to
Ted
Loading thread data ...

Check out this web site and play the video.

formatting link

Reply to
Dave

Ted, My suggestion is to do them on the table saw, but you'll need a stacked dado set that cuts a flat bottom. The problem I've found with "plywood-sized" router bits is that they aren't....you know...plywood-sized. The real problem is that plywood isn't plywood-sized, at least not what I find at my hardwood lumber store. The plywood bits I've seen are 1/32" undersized from the nominal plywood size. Hell, I can't get plywood that's only 1/16" undersize. What I do in this situation is measure the plywood thickness, set up my stacked dado set and cut a test in the same material I'll be using, test the fit, and adjust as needed. \\

Mine is an 8". The dado set, that is.

todd

Reply to
todd

It depends; however, a stacked dado on a table saw offers more flexibility.

Freud will have an 8" stacked dado for use on a 10" table saw for around $200.

There are others of similar or better quality, I just happen to have the Freud.

When a stacked dado doesn't do the job, time to look at the router.

Lew

Lew

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

Personal preference. I used to do them with a router, I even designed a router dado jig that does indeed make the perfect sized dado. You use the actual material that will fit into the dado to set the jig up. Width does not matter. You might be able to find the design plans on the internet if you look for "Leon's dado jig". Now however I typically use the stacked dado set on the TS if making more than 1 dado. The TS stacked dado takes more time to set up than my jig but after it is set up multiple dado's of the same size are much faster.

Reply to
Leon

Both! Generally, the table saw is faster and easier, but, if you want to cut a dado on the ends of 8' book self sides, it's easier on a router or a radial arm saw.

You'll figure that out yourself after you cut a couple. Depends on size, wood, cutter and so on.

Dado sets are generally smaller than your regular 10" blades. dado's are always shallow cuts not 3 inches deep so no need for a 10" dado set. The width is easy to adjust in stacked dado's simply by putting paper "washers" for spacers between the blades to adjust the cut. If you don't own a dado set, I would recommend you stay away for the adjustable wobble things, and get a nice standard stacked dado set.

Reply to
Jack Stein

And, in preference to the suggested paper ships above, I like Lee Valley's plastic dado shims that have a slot cut in them so one doesn't have to remove the arbour nut completely to add or remove shims.

formatting link

Reply to
Upscale

"Ted" wrote in news:Dc4Uk.69962$ snipped-for-privacy@bignews6.bellsouth.net:

If you just need to cut a few dadoes, the standard table saw blade will work just fine, it's just a bit tedious to set, cut, reset, cut, etc. If you have a lot of dadoes to cut, get a good dado stack as described in the other emails.

Reply to
Scritch

I am trying to decide either to make dadoos with a router or with a table saw. I know that they make router bits designed to match the true sixe of plywood.

I have never worked with dadoos before. I have both 1/4 and 1/2 inch routers, which would be better? Do it in one pass or multiple working down the final depth? If a table saw, what size blade would I get for my 10" table say?

Thanks

Ted

I use a guide I made for the job

formatting link
can see that the guide is good for two different DeWalt routers (the

618 and the 621)

Max

Reply to
Max

I do them both ways, depending on details and mood.

If the ends will be covered, 99% of the time, I'll use a table saw and my Dado King set. If the ends will show, I'll use a router.

I have an 8" dado, but a 6" will work fine and save a few bucks. I use a shopmade sled, story stick, and the fence to make identical parts. The blades get set to a measurement of the actual shelf stock + a few thou. I've never used my dado set for a depth that a 6" wouldn't have handled.

Using a router, use a smaller bit than the groove, say, a 1/2" bit to cut a 3/4" slot and Leon's auto adjusting jig. That's the simplest way to perfect fitting routed dados I've ever tried. Depending on your router, you can probably do it in two passes.

Reply to
B A R R Y

I did a search and every instance all link back to

formatting link
which is a bad link. I would love to see it.

Ted

Reply to
Ted

Thanks to everyone for your answers. My first project for this will be "cabinets" for a closet organizer system. I think that I will start with a router setup due to all the different setups for each pass.

Ted

Reply to
Ted

There is one thing to consider when making dados. A router bit is a fixed size and it's sometimes a pain to have to do repeat cuts to sneak up on the exact width of dado slot that you need. A dado blade for a table saw however, can be configured to the exact size needed, so you adjust to what you want and then you can do many repeat cuts much faster.

The good scenario when using routers is if you have a bit that cuts the exact size of dado that you need from the get go.

Reply to
Upscale

I can send you a pdf file by e-mail if you like. It is a basic CAD drawing. If you are still interested I can give you some details to explain the concept of how it works.

Reply to
Leon

"either to make dadoos with a router or with a table saw . . . "is that they aren't....you know...plywood-sized. ...

There is a technique used that kills this bird and on other off on the horizon - cutting a rabbit into the edge of the plywood to bring it to a "standard" thickness and cutting the dado in the mating piece to match.

This saves you the expense of a "Plywood-sized" router bit (set?) and has the advantage of hiding the joint nicely. Sorry I couldn't come up with a link for youor even a "name" for the approach.

Of course, as with most all who post here, your post was bereft of many of the details you were privy to in considering the alternatives. How large are the pieces you will be working with? Are you building shop shelves of heirloom cabinetry - if you are in prison, is it for you or the guards or your daddy?

Reply to
Hoosierpopi

" look for "Leon's dado jig"."

Was "up" on Desoto's site, but not today. Instead, I found the three- legged sawhorses - worth a look.

formatting link
's one that's simple for smaller stock:
formatting link
a picture of another approach - to get exact width of receiving stock:
formatting link

Reply to
Hoosierpopi

"Veritas Dado Shims" , I like Lee Valley's plastic dado shims

a few mangled shims as a result) and I was wondering if anyone had a "fix" other than wrapping a bit of scotch tape around the arbor before adding the dado blades and shims.

Reply to
Hoosierpopi

files) when it seemed appropriate.

There's an explanation at

formatting link

Reply to
Morris Dovey

Take a look at this jig that Infinity offers at their site. Watch the video too. It's a little pricy, but a neat jig. It's a no brainer doing dado's.

formatting link

Reply to
Dave

I did and do appreciate your site. Thank you again.

Reply to
Leon

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.