Dado question - is this a dumb move?


I want to cut stopped dadoes 3/4W x 1/2D in 5/4 maple. The idea I have is to clamp stop blocks on the rip fence, rest the piece against the near stop block held at an angle above the blade and slowly lower the wood onto the spinning blade, them push the piece to the other stop to complete the cut. I presently have all my fingers and toes and would like to keep it that way. Is this an unsafe method? TIA
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Yes, it is.
Use a router instead.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
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The danger lies in two aspects.
1. If you get any side to side tipping as you lower it it could be a bit disasterous.
2. If, when lifting off the cut you were to slip and drop it... well.
Number 2 could be avoided by kicking the saw off with your knee before lifting it.
An alternative method might be to rasie the blade into the piece, although that's a bit problematic but could be accomplished with some feather boards. Just need to devise a method of getting the exact depth you want.
All that being said, I'd probably do it without too much worry, but that's just me. However, I've also pretty much decided that any operation thatgets my heart beat racing is my flag to find a different way to do the job.
I'd think of some way to design around it witha different joint or something. How/where is it being used?
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Do you have a router? I've done this before on a router mounted in a table with no problems. I personally haven't tried it on a table saw although cutting zero inserts is similar when the blade doesn't retract enough. Anyway, I'm sticking with the router. Cheers, cc

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"sidney" wrote in message

Blind dadoes on both ends of stock are best done on a router table..
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
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Swingman wrote:

Put me in the router camp.
I don't like doing stopped TS cuts.
Barry
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And the ts cut is going to take some cleanup anyway, at the stopped ends.
This is a good excuse to buy a new router, with 1/2" collet, just in case you were looking for one. ;-)
Patriarch
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Hello Patriarch,
After the doing the obligatory amount of research I think the Hitachi M12V is my best choice--it seems to provide a lot of value for the price. However, I've also noticed the price dropping on the PC 7518, although I'd be giving up plunge capability. Your thoughts or opinions on this matter would be appreciated.
Just to be clear, I'm only building the fence--not the table. What I have is a General Int'l CS with their iron router table ext. wing installed.
Sidney

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You want the opinions of folks who use routers for a living, as opposed to a fellow who will take the rest of his life to wear one out. ;-) Check Google on those two models, and the other referanced models, and see what the experts say.
I have a Freud FT2000e, which suits my table work just fine. I bought it in complete, Tim Taylor style ignorance, and got lucky with it. There are three or four more smaller PC routers & trimmers I use for hand held work, and I'm pleased with those as well.
My question had been more from the perspective of your seeming focus on cutting dados with the tables saw, and then telling us that this was for a router table fence, when the consensus was to cut them with a router. When I started doing this, not too many years ago, I found myself fixating on one, known method for solving a problem. That approach cost me a lot of time, and not a few boxes from Amazon, Woodcraft, Lee Valley & other places. Some of those boxes were one-project wonders.
And most of that was prior to my becoming familiar with the wReck community. Lots of smart folks here, even with the filter-fodder problems.
Have fun with your projects. Take pictures.
Patriarch
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