I've cut a lot of it with a straight edge and a scribe by cutting about
half way through with the scribe, making numerous passes of course, then
sandwiching between to boards with a sharp edged board on the underside
and just behind the scribe line and snapping it downwards. Works great!
There are specialty acrylic blades, but they're expensive... I used to do
alot of aquarium related work with plexiglass, and have found that cutting a
bit over dimenion with a decent combo blade and then joniting the edges
works very well.
I agree with George. I have cut Lexan, Plexiglas, FRP, Santana, PVC pipe,
and probably another dozen types of plastic in a table saw. The only ones
that I have had any trouble with was old (many years old) plastic lenses
from fluorescent fixtures.
I use a carbide blade with ATB teeth, nothing special, not any huge quantity
of teeth. I have a zero clearance plate on my saw at all times, this may be
the difference. Take a piece of scrap ply, masonite, or even cardboard;
lower the blade; tape the scrap to the table top; turn on the saw; raise the
blade up and through the sacrificial material. Try the cut again to see if
it makes a substantial difference.
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
I did not have a problem cutting plexi on the tablesaw using a ply or
laminate blade (one with a lot of teeth). No chipping. A jigsaw or
bandsaw will work too, but the edge will need a little filing and
sanding. Another method is to sandwich the thin plexi with a
stoutman wandered in from the void and babbled something like:
I generally score my lexan and plexi with a scoring knife made just
for this purpose, then snap it over the sharp edge of a piece of wood.
It can be touched up on a joiner, if neccessary.
The folding scoring knifes cost about $3.00. Works like a charm.
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