CuttingPlexiglass

I am making some bird feeders that have 1/4'' plexiglass panels. I cut some plexiglass on the tablesaw and it chipped all along the edge.
How do you cut this stuff without any chipout?
-Thanks Brian
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What Kind of Blade did you use ????

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stoutman wrote:

I read on a site that scoring on each side with a utility knife & snapping works. Never tried it myself.
-- Mark
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Works Quite well. You Can run it down a jointer after that is you want too.
Thanks, Tony D.
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go anywhere. (been there, repeatedly.)
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Mark Jerde wrote:

I've cut a lot of it with a straight edge and a scribe by cutting about half way through with the scribe, making numerous passes of course, then sandwiching between to boards with a sharp edged board on the underside and just behind the scribe line and snapping it downwards. Works great!
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cut it between two pieces of wood "Grandpa" <jsdebooATcomcast.net> wrote in message

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There are specialty acrylic blades, but they're expensive... I used to do alot of aquarium related work with plexiglass, and have found that cutting a bit over dimenion with a decent combo blade and then joniting the edges works very well.
Brian.

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I agree with George. I have cut Lexan, Plexiglas, FRP, Santana, PVC pipe, and probably another dozen types of plastic in a table saw. The only ones that I have had any trouble with was old (many years old) plastic lenses from fluorescent fixtures.
I use a carbide blade with ATB teeth, nothing special, not any huge quantity of teeth. I have a zero clearance plate on my saw at all times, this may be the difference. Take a piece of scrap ply, masonite, or even cardboard; lower the blade; tape the scrap to the table top; turn on the saw; raise the blade up and through the sacrificial material. Try the cut again to see if it makes a substantial difference.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Keep the whole world singing. . . . DanG

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I've had good success using a triple chip grind blade (those designed for melamine & laminates).
Luigi Replace "no" with "yk" for real email address
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scribbled

.........
Put your blade on backwards. No chips even with a sloppy saw, cold thin plexiglass, & coarse blade. It leaves a nice finish.
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I'm gonna give that a try.
I don't wanna have to buy a new saw blade just to cut some Plexiglas.
-Thanks to all who posted.
scribbled

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be careful with this approach...if you knock a tooth off, you'll have a little bullet coming atcha......
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I did not have a problem cutting plexi on the tablesaw using a ply or laminate blade (one with a lot of teeth). No chipping. A jigsaw or bandsaw will work too, but the edge will need a little filing and sanding. Another method is to sandwich the thin plexi with a same-sized hardboard.
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I've had good results with a good quality 40 tooth general purpose blade on the tablesaw; Forrest WWII and the Oldham top of the line blade both worked well.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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stoutman wandered in from the void and babbled something like:

I generally score my lexan and plexi with a scoring knife made just for this purpose, then snap it over the sharp edge of a piece of wood. It can be touched up on a joiner, if neccessary. The folding scoring knifes cost about $3.00. Works like a charm.
FWIW, Greg
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I got minimal chipping by only raising the blade far enough for the tips of the teeth to clear the work, and then applying masking tape to both faces before cutting.
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I just cut some yesterday with a 10 TPI blade in my jigsaw. No chipping, but some minor melting that I fixed up with a file.

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic" - Arthur C Clarke
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zero clearance plate in the saw and a 80 tooth triple chip blade. Or TCG for short.

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