Cutting plexiglas on TS

I've been cutting plexiglas on the TS using a blade designed to cut sheet metal. It makes those little curls of plastic, but they peel right off using fingers or the belt sander. Comments?
BigJoe
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Thanks for all the tips gentleman. Unfortunately, I do not have a TAP plastics locally, but I'm sure I can find a substitute. If I want to make the vertical piece plastic versus wood, what kind of glue will hold the pieces together, and how thick do the pieces need to be?
Chris
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I use a streight edge and score it with a knife ment for laminate scorring and then snap it of
BigJoe wrote:

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I use a scoring tool called the ScoreMate from Fletcher-Terry. It's a small hand tool with two carbide blades for scoring acrylic. I find that it also scores Wilsonart for breaking in a clean line.
Phil
http://www.fletcher-terry.com/fletcherterry/ecatalog/viewfamily.jsp?level=5&parent_id 0&parent_id29&parent_id3=5&tl_id=5&family_idI
j wrote:

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For thin plexiglass I've been using a crosscut blade with the teeth pointing the wrong way. Works great!
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Add to that, more teeth are better, and no carbide.
Want to get a real silky smooth edge? Set your jointer for a 1/16" cut. Works great -- Jim in NC -- Jim in NC
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I bought a 150 tooth 10" blade designed for plastics and laminates. Not a carbide tipped blade. Makes great cuts in 1/4" Lexan. If slow the feed rate to about 1/2 that of plywood, the cuts are very smooth and require little preparation before bonding and getting clear seams. Leaves no "fuzz" on the plastic, but, it does make up welded chucks of fuzz inside my TS. The DC gets most of it, some have to be manually peeled off after the job is done. I bought the blade at Home Depot a year ago.
Robert

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