Does anyone know an effective way to cut lexan so the back after cutting it doesn't melt and stick back to itself?
Rich
Does anyone know an effective way to cut lexan so the back after cutting it doesn't melt and stick back to itself?
Rich
table saw.
and the right blade.
What is the right blade?
Rich
-5 degree hook angle, ifmemory serves
I normally use my bandsaw. that way I don't have to change the blade on my table saw.
i use a triple chip style. its a bi metal cutting blade for alluminum and other non ferous metals. if your lexan is thin say less than an
1/8" you can score with a knife and snap as you would with glass. skeezLexan is a polycarbonate and wont snap like that...I cut it all the time. I use a Forrest no-melt blade in the table saw or I cut it with the laser at work......Brian
ayup. i stand corected. plexiglass cuts like that but not lexan. my goof. i use the table saw. no laser in the shop!!! hmmm..... maybe i should start workin the SWMBO???? :-]> skeez
I used to work for a neon sign company, and we'd used routers and CAD-based tables with what looks like a router bit pointing downward (toward the table from a moving arm) to cut lexan smoothly.
A table saw and the blade depends on how many cuts are required.
A standard wood cutting combination blade will work if you are willing to take your time.
If you try to push it, the plastic will heat up and give you a crappy cut.
If you have a lot of work to do, get a blade designed to cut plastic materials. The specs are available from any decent plastics distributor.
BTW, just spent 2 hours this afternoon cutting up a block of UHMWPE to make bearing plates.
Used a 50 tooth combo blade and very slow cuts to get the job done, but it worked.
HTH
I had reason to fit some 1/4 inch polycarbonate strips into a sharpening center cabinet I'm making. Cut to width - 10 inch length - with a dozuki saw and found a) that I'd wandered off the line in places and b) left a less than perfect surface on the edge. Used a #5 on the edge and was pleased to find "see through" curlies AND no tear out (the wonders of no grain direction to deal with).
charlie b
I have success with a triple chip grind negative rake 60 tooth carbide blade. HTH, Ken
Thanks guys!
Rich
_Good_ (low vibration) jigsaw with pendulum action. It's one of the simplest demonstrations around for why a good jigsaw is better than a bad one.
-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
I use a Systimatic #1410 plastics/cutoff blade for this - it has 60 teeth, a very low hook angle, every other tooth has a flat top, and the teeth in between are bevelled on both edges. If you use a regular combination ATB or similar, your life will occasionally get very exciting as your plastic parts go airborne.
Never really had the melting problem, maybe that's because I use a full kerf blade and splitter.
Tim Carver snipped-for-privacy@twocarvers.com
I have cut it with a regular cross cut carbide and like you said chips were sent in every direction, but for what I needed at the time it worked ok. Then tried a saber saw and that's when it melted back on to itself.. I will have to try your method and blade.
Thanks
I have successfully used an Oldham plywood/particleboard blade, and I have a s****y Crapsman TS. It cut just fine and gave a nice edge without chips flying every which way.
Dave
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