Cutting Lexan???

Does anyone know an effective way to cut lexan so the back after cutting it doesn't melt and stick back to itself?
Rich
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On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 20:25:07 GMT, EvoDawg

table saw.
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On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 20:31:34 GMT, " snipped-for-privacy@home.com"

and the right blade.
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Bridger wrote:

What is the right blade?
Rich
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-5 degree hook angle, ifmemory serves
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On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 21:47:00 GMT, EvoDawg

i use a triple chip style. its a bi metal cutting blade for alluminum and other non ferous metals. if your lexan is thin say less than an 1/8" you can score with a knife and snap as you would with glass. skeez
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Lexan is a polycarbonate and wont snap like that...I cut it all the time. I use a Forrest no-melt blade in the table saw or I cut it with the laser at work......Brian
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On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 19:04:49 -0500, "Brian in Hampton"

ayup. i stand corected. plexiglass cuts like that but not lexan. my goof. i use the table saw. no laser in the shop!!! hmmm..... maybe i should start workin the SWMBO???? :-]> skeez
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On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 20:31:34 GMT, " snipped-for-privacy@home.com"

I use a Systimatic #1410 plastics/cutoff blade for this - it has 60 teeth, a very low hook angle, every other tooth has a flat top, and the teeth in between are bevelled on both edges. If you use a regular combination ATB or similar, your life will occasionally get very exciting as your plastic parts go airborne.
Never really had the melting problem, maybe that's because I use a full kerf blade and splitter.
Tim Carver snipped-for-privacy@twocarvers.com
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Tim Carver wrote:

I have cut it with a regular cross cut carbide and like you said chips were sent in every direction, but for what I needed at the time it worked ok. Then tried a saber saw and that's when it melted back on to itself.. I will have to try your method and blade.
Thanks
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I have successfully used an Oldham plywood/particleboard blade, and I have a s****y Crapsman TS. It cut just fine and gave a nice edge without chips flying every which way.
Dave
On 1/26/04 2:48, in article mv4Rb.15154$ snipped-for-privacy@nwrddc03.gnilink.net,

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I normally use my bandsaw. that way I don't have to change the blade on my table saw.
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"EvoDawg" < snipped-for-privacy@verizon.nospam.net> wrote in message
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http://www.geplastics.com/resins /
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I used to work for a neon sign company, and we'd used routers and CAD-based tables with what looks like a router bit pointing downward (toward the table from a moving arm) to cut lexan smoothly.
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"EvoDawg"writes:

A table saw and the blade depends on how many cuts are required.
A standard wood cutting combination blade will work if you are willing to take your time.
If you try to push it, the plastic will heat up and give you a crappy cut.
If you have a lot of work to do, get a blade designed to cut plastic materials. The specs are available from any decent plastics distributor.
BTW, just spent 2 hours this afternoon cutting up a block of UHMWPE to make bearing plates.
Used a 50 tooth combo blade and very slow cuts to get the job done, but it worked.
HTH
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Lew

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I had reason to fit some 1/4 inch polycarbonate strips into a sharpening center cabinet I'm making. Cut to width - 10 inch length - with a dozuki saw and found a) that I'd wandered off the line in places and b) left a less than perfect surface on the edge. Used a #5 on the edge and was pleased to find "see through" curlies AND no tear out (the wonders of no grain direction to deal with).
charlie b
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I have success with a triple chip grind negative rake 60 tooth carbide blade. HTH, Ken
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EvoDawg wrote:

Thanks guys!
Rich
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On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 20:25:07 GMT, EvoDawg

_Good_ (low vibration) jigsaw with pendulum action. It's one of the simplest demonstrations around for why a good jigsaw is better than a bad one.
-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
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