Cutting Lexan???

Does anyone know an effective way to cut lexan so the back after cutting it doesn't melt and stick back to itself?

Rich

Reply to
EvoDawg
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table saw.

Reply to
skeezics

and the right blade.

Reply to
Bridger

What is the right blade?

Rich

Reply to
EvoDawg

-5 degree hook angle, ifmemory serves

Reply to
FEngelman

I normally use my bandsaw. that way I don't have to change the blade on my table saw.

Reply to
KYHighlander

formatting link

Reply to
Ric

i use a triple chip style. its a bi metal cutting blade for alluminum and other non ferous metals. if your lexan is thin say less than an

1/8" you can score with a knife and snap as you would with glass. skeez
Reply to
skeezics

Lexan is a polycarbonate and wont snap like that...I cut it all the time. I use a Forrest no-melt blade in the table saw or I cut it with the laser at work......Brian

Reply to
Brian in Hampton

ayup. i stand corected. plexiglass cuts like that but not lexan. my goof. i use the table saw. no laser in the shop!!! hmmm..... maybe i should start workin the SWMBO???? :-]> skeez

Reply to
skeezics

I used to work for a neon sign company, and we'd used routers and CAD-based tables with what looks like a router bit pointing downward (toward the table from a moving arm) to cut lexan smoothly.

Reply to
Tom Martinello

A table saw and the blade depends on how many cuts are required.

A standard wood cutting combination blade will work if you are willing to take your time.

If you try to push it, the plastic will heat up and give you a crappy cut.

If you have a lot of work to do, get a blade designed to cut plastic materials. The specs are available from any decent plastics distributor.

BTW, just spent 2 hours this afternoon cutting up a block of UHMWPE to make bearing plates.

Used a 50 tooth combo blade and very slow cuts to get the job done, but it worked.

HTH

Reply to
Lew Hodgett

I had reason to fit some 1/4 inch polycarbonate strips into a sharpening center cabinet I'm making. Cut to width - 10 inch length - with a dozuki saw and found a) that I'd wandered off the line in places and b) left a less than perfect surface on the edge. Used a #5 on the edge and was pleased to find "see through" curlies AND no tear out (the wonders of no grain direction to deal with).

charlie b

Reply to
charlie b

I have success with a triple chip grind negative rake 60 tooth carbide blade. HTH, Ken

Reply to
Ken Lamb

Thanks guys!

Rich

Reply to
EvoDawg

_Good_ (low vibration) jigsaw with pendulum action. It's one of the simplest demonstrations around for why a good jigsaw is better than a bad one.

-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I use a Systimatic #1410 plastics/cutoff blade for this - it has 60 teeth, a very low hook angle, every other tooth has a flat top, and the teeth in between are bevelled on both edges. If you use a regular combination ATB or similar, your life will occasionally get very exciting as your plastic parts go airborne.

Never really had the melting problem, maybe that's because I use a full kerf blade and splitter.

Tim Carver snipped-for-privacy@twocarvers.com

Reply to
Tim Carver

I have cut it with a regular cross cut carbide and like you said chips were sent in every direction, but for what I needed at the time it worked ok. Then tried a saber saw and that's when it melted back on to itself.. I will have to try your method and blade.

Thanks

Reply to
EvoDawg

I have successfully used an Oldham plywood/particleboard blade, and I have a s****y Crapsman TS. It cut just fine and gave a nice edge without chips flying every which way.

Dave

Reply to
Dave & Tricia Claghorn

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