I am trying to make a cutting board. I have a hard maple board about 6
inches wide. My plans say to take 3/4 inch think wood and cut it into
1.5 inch strips. (16 of them).
I guess my question is, I have a cheap Delta table top saw and a piece
of angle iron for a fence. If I place the angle iron 1.5 inches away
from the blade will it be acurate because I am pushing the board
against the fence form the opposite side. (Because 1.5 inches it too
narrow to push with my hand and I dont want to saw off my hand!) But
setting the fence 4.5 inches away and cutting would seem more acurate,
but a pain to move the fence 16 times using this method.
Also, is it best looking to face glue these strips rather than edge
glue them? (I have a planer but no jointer).
Keeper piece between the fence and the blade, pushing the keeper piece
through with a push block. That angle iron fence is a little sketchy -
if it's not aligned properly you could have a kickback.
As far as the accuracy, what ever comes out of your tablesaw will need
to be cleaned up. On a nicely set up saw with a nice blade you can get
cuts that are ready for glue up - that won't happen with your set up.
It's not clear from your description how thick your cutting board will
be. If you have the cut edges facing up, you could just sand or plane
the cutting board flat and take care of all of the cut eges at once.
Otherwise, a sharp jack plane will have no problem cleaning up those
edges for you. Clamp two adjoing boards in the vise with the mating
edges facing up - one board's good side faces left, the other faces
right. When you plane them like that it compensates for your planed
edges not being 100% square.
In all such glue ups, registering the boards so they form a flush
surface can be tricky, so planning on planing/sanding the top and
bottom surfaces of the cutting board is probably the easiest way to get
see a problem. A 1.5" rip is not unsafe (IMHO) if done properly. I'd
offer a few suggestions, though. Use GOOD push block that will not
permit your hand/fingers to get near the blade. The design I prefer (I
make them out of Baltic birch) is about a foot long with a grip handle
on top. A 1" long block attached at the bottom rear provides the
"push" mechanism. With that setup you can get downward pressure on the
board while pushing it all the way thru and still assure your hand is
out of the way. Set the blade height to just above the board top.
As the above poster stated you want to control the cut from BETWEEN the
blade and fence, NOT from the other side of the blade. If you've never
experienced a kickback (I've only had a couple and the thought of
another one scares me to death) you'd be amazed at how quick they happen
and how violent they are.
Good luck and be safe,
The proper, and safe, way is to use a FEATHERBOARD, affixed to the table saw
table and in front of the blade to hold the trailing edge of the workpiece
against your fence, and a PUSHSTICK, between the blade and the fence, to
push the workpiece past the blade.
And use a SPLITTER.
... if you don't know what these terms mean, or how to implement them, you
should NOT be doing it.
The best results for a cutting board is to glue so that end grain is the
"The best results for a cutting board is to glue so that end grain is
work surface. "
Agreed its the difference between cutting with a knife across the broom
Vs cutting down from the end and splitting the fibers.
for safety take a look at the GRR-RIPPER they also have a splitter.
Expensive but so is the emergency room.
Yep, and I've made one (maple/cherry, 2" thick).
I wouldn't want to make one much thinner than this though, I suspect it
would become somewhat fragile.
For a thinner cutting board I might be tempted to orient it so that the
cutting survace is edge-grain. Either rip flat-sawn boards and flip
them, or use quarter-sawn wood in the first place.
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