Cut my workmate front panel in 2

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Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
> > How would you recommend to prepare the board 2 pieces to ensure that > the epoxy will penetrate and "grip" on/in the wood?
I'd use some coarse sand paper (24-36 grit if you have it) or a even a rasp to grind back the wood fibers to a clean surface.
I know you don't want to remove the pieces from the W/M, but you must make sure the surfaces are clean and free from any residual glue from your previous attempt at repair.
Don't worry about removing more wood, you are after a clean and rough surface, and the epoxy will replace it.
Have fun.
Lew
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Why not just go to Black & Decker and order/buy a new part. Workmates are tools just like all of the other tools that they make and they should be able to supply that as a spare part. All you need to know is which version of Workmate that it is.
--
Charley


"Lew Hodgett" < snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net> wrote in message
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Charley wrote: > Why not just go to Black & Decker and order/buy a new part.
That is far tooo simple and straight forward<G>.
Also, probably about 1/2 the cost of a good epoxy repair.
Lew
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Right on! It's a recreational activity.

Actually, the panel by itself (and I mean just 1) sells for ~$20 + S&H. That would cost me less to buy the whole thing on ebay.

The epoxy is curing.
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Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
> Actually, the panel by itself (and I mean just 1) sells for ~$20 + > S&H. That would cost me less to buy the whole thing on ebay. >> Lew > > The epoxy is curing.
Find some place that sells fiberglass tape or 10 OZ glass cloth as a repair kit.
If you have a West Marine or equal, they will have it.
You only need something like 3"-4" wide x 12" long, say two layers.
Use a couple of layers of glass on the bottom side and that repair will be "Strong Like Bull"
Lew
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I don't know about "Strong like Bull", but the $1 J&B Weld epoxy filling + a piece of 1/2" poplar epoxied under the cut to support the panel worked great. It is very stiff and it does not flex when I use the workmate as a vise. I applied the tape perfectly so it worked as a mold and I did not had to even sand after I removed it. Thanks for the excellent recommendation. Vince
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Life_Is_Good_In_Austin wrote:
> > Instead of the glass, I plan to glue some thin hard wood under the > board to re-enforce it after the epoxy cured completely. That should > add some support.
Got a piece of 1/4" plywood?
If so, glue it with epoxy.
Lew
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