Curly Cherry

Six months ago I made a cabinet out of curly cherry and was very disappointed by the results. It is pretty, but the curl is much less prominent than I expected; it showed up more as dark patterns then as figure. I posted here, and was told that curly cherry simply didn't show up like curly maple.

A few months ago I made a box out of pomelle bubinga and was also disappointed by the results; finished with BLO like the cherry. Beautiful wood, but not extraordinary. Using the same wood for another project, I found that the bubinga had superb curl when I cleaned it with mineral spirits. I put 7 applications of wipe on poly over the oil on my box and it looks wonderful. The curl is now extraordinary.

So, that has me thinking about the curly cherry. It is a large piece so I can't just play with it, and I don't have any wood from that material to experiment on. If it will bring up the curl (and yes, I have seen curly cherry that looked like good curly maple so I know that my results aren't the best) I am certainly willing to refinish it; but don't want to rec it.

Anyone know about this?

Reply to
Toller
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To accentuate figure I am learning that you need the highest reflectivity you can get. So super flat sanding and clear gloss.

The one thing I haven't yet "figured" out is, should you oil the wood first. Intuitively, it seems the oil would add some reflectivity within the wood, that "deeper" finish concept. However, I wonder if oil penetrates to well and flattens the figure by lessining the contrast.

BW

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

Answering my own question, reading on Jeff Jewitt's sight he recommends using oil to enhance the curl. So that's settles it for me.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

I made a blanket chest for my DIL, using curly maple for the panels. Sanded to 220 and applied tung oil, diluted by half with mineral spirits. The figure came to life, and you cannot look at it and see a flat surface, even though it is flat. Maybe the mineral spirits is the secret.

Steve

Reply to
Steve Peterson

Nope ... the secret is labeling the container "tung oil", on tape, with marks-a-lot, even if that is not what it contains.

Just ask David J. Marks.

Reply to
Swingman

I use the wipe-on Poly a lot. Does a good job revealing curl. Guess that has oil and plenty of mineral spirits.

Of course, Shellac, well rubbed and buffed, does splendidly as well. Think it has more to do with no scatter in the finish itself than anything else.

Reply to
George

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I've had very good luck with polymerized tung oi (Mosers from WWS)l. The sealer seems to bring out the figure, the PTO preserves and enhances it.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
Reply to
Mark & Juanita

David's tung oil doesn't contain ANY tung oil? Hmmmm.

Reply to
stoutman

Yep. It's not 100% polyurethane. Just like David Marks Tung Oil isn't

100% Tung Oil.

Reply to
stoutman

On Sat 01 Oct 2005 01:16:18p, "stoutman" wrote in news:SnA%e.77068 $ snipped-for-privacy@twister.southeast.rr.com:

No. He uses General Finishes, and apparently they USED to be part tung oil but they changed their formula some time ago. It's on his website. I agree with Dave though, it's good stuff.

I've been using General for my last two projects and I think I'm getting the hang of it. I like it. One coat Seal-a-Cell and three or four coats of Armr Seal. When I was learning, I got an okay finish that everybody liked. After I got better, even _I_ liked the way it turned out. :-)

It's brought out the figure on the red leaf maple kitchen table I did for my mother in law, and the curly koa plaque we're using to hold the robe hooks on the bathroom door looks absolutely fantastic. I've tried the satin and semi gloss. Semi gloss brought out the figure better, I thought. High gloss next.

Reply to
Dan

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