I've just gotta ask... how is "get a chainsaw", with no attendant
advice on safety, usage or even brand recommendations, somehow "safer"
than giving advice about the quality of a hand saw. Lots of accidents
with chain saws, far fewer that I've heard of with a handsaw- and what
accidents there are are likely less deadly.
That's rediculous. It's like saying that a guy who wants advice on
good hand planes should go piss up a rope because he didn't care to
hear jointer reviews in response.
To the OP, I know what you're getting at, and I'd like to help, but I
just use a cheap bow saw. Does the trick 99% of the time, though it
may not be as classy.
I was responding directly to his request for answers to his questions
without having to explain why he wanted to know. *Anything* can be in
particular context with something else and safety is always a concern. If
you don't see that, then there's nothing I can say that will convince you
Didn't seem odd to me. Maybe the problem is that I jumped into the thread
part way and missed some of the context at the beginning. That might explain
why it seems out of place. Don't worry about it. If it's any consolation,
I'm finished anyway.
Okay, maybe the word "advice" was a bit of a stretch, but your comment
was pretty convicting and appeared to be directed toward him.
May I suggest that it might have been more productive if you had simply
restated and clarifed your question and left out the complaints about
the responses that obviously frustrated you?
'Nuff said. I'll get off my soapbox. I sincerely hope that you found
some helpful information.
I apologize for that then, because it was no way meant to be directed
right at him. I meant it as a comment on this era in general.
I get sick of constantly reading posts on usenet saying "I'm going
to do this if my wife will let me" or "I would buy one of these if
I could just get it past SWMBO".
I tell my wife what I'm spending money on, but I don't ask her permission
and she doesn't try to veto it. If there is something she wants, I say
"ok, let's see how we can make it happen".
The thought came to me that I should have posted that I was
tree-jacking on national forest land and thus a chainsaw was out of
the question because of the noise level. :)
See? I even put a smiley on it...
Bits and pieces. I think I'm going to get a Gransfors Bruk cruiser size axe
to limb these blowdowns. I was trying to avoid a bow saw, but I have some
red oak and BLO laying around, so I guess I could knock one out.
FWIW, I like the axe better for crosscutting as long as I've got a
keen edge on it. The bowsaw is just for getting a relatively flat
surface to drive a spur center into. Problem I seem to run into is
that the blade binds in the kerf when the log starts to collapse- and
the axe doesn't do this, of course. If you do happen to run across a
good saw that you'd recommend, though, I'd be interested in knowing
what you found!
Tree-jacking? Stealing wood? That seems to explain that you want the hand
crosscut saw for "stealth". If it's "trash" wood, unfit for burning, then
why are you even bothering? If you're doing it to clear a hiking or
snowmobile trail, then the forestry service shouldn't object, and there
would be no need for silence.
FWIW, you said what you wanted to do and asked about crosscut saws. Could
have saved a LOT of the angst in this thread if you had
(1) Didn't say why, just asked about the saws, or
(2) Explained that you had a chainsaw, but there were noise restrictions.
You started with "too much" or "not enough" information in the OP, and got
answers that I would have given myself. Considering what you started with, I
would have said "get a chainsaw".
My miss-spent youth included learning how to pull a 2 man crosscut saw,
cutting logs to ~8' length, splitting w/wedges & sledge-hammer, then hauling
to the house & making stove length with a buzz rig. Definitely a lot more
work than chain-sawing to stove length, splitting with an ax and hauling to
The greatest headaches are those we cause ourselves.
Quoting part of one of your posts:
"Most of these blowdowns are elm. Not just any elm, but really nasty,
trashy elm. I probably won't even try to burn them for heat."
You never mentioned any Cherry.
My sense of humor is very much intact, and functions perfectly. I'm even
capable of laughing at myself. However, I'm done now because that hook
Seems the only post Mr. Parker has EVER made to the wRECk is this thread, so
I'm all done.
Norman D. Crow
FWIW, the usage of SWMBO on this newsgroup does not pertain to an
overbearing and shrewish woman. See the following message for more
I refer to my wife as SWMBO, and she knows about it and gets a laugh
out of it. You see, we are comfortable enough in our relationship that
she doesn't take offense at an obviously ironic/humorous term.
As to your original question -- I've not tried the saws in question,
but do have some experience cutting mesquite from the log. I've used
both a homemade bowsaw and a cheapo Stanley "sharksaw", and the best
advice I can give you is whatever you choose, you want the saw to be as
long as possible (within reason). You want to be able to establish a
rhythm of *long* strokes where you are using your whole body behind the
As for the saw binding near the end of the cut -- I just roll the
log over and finish the cut from the opposite side once I get close.
Probably a poorly-worded question. If your question indicates zero
knowledge or research present, then that will be assumed.
There are technical groups, though, full of people asking 'How do I do
(really stupid thing that nobody in their right mind would do)'.
Finding out what the question behind the question is, so the _real_
answer can be given, is valuable.
"I think I see what you're getting at, but the way you're trying to do
it is the hard way to do it" is a valid response, in some situations.
Matt, just ignore replies you consider to be rediculous.
Never "let them have it" and argue back. Otherwise, you
burn your bridges, as I have learned by my own social
mistakes in this NG. You don't have to kiss ass either.
And I know I wasn't asked, you were told anyway.
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
All the responses I've read so far have been right on target with
your stated situation: "just cutting up to stove length".
NONE of the responses told you what you should do. I told you
what I'd do and what would also work, as did others. To this you
took offense. The one poster who did tell you "what you don't want"
got a "first well-reasoned response" comment from you.
Maybe. And maybe you're just cranky. Either way you are certainly
unreasonable and have earned the flak you are getting.
dealer, on Ebay, or if you're lucky, at an estate sale. Therir quality
is, IMNSHO, better than most any handsaw you can buy today. Are you
anywhere near Spokane WA? I've got a few from around 1900 that need
setting and sharpening, but the steel is good.
It's been a few decades since I used one of those things, but I can
remember enough to say this:
You want one that'll let you do the longest stroke your arms can
handle. Three feet probably isn't too long. If you've got long arms,
3.5 shouldn't be too bad. Long slower strokes are better than fast
short ones. You get a better rhythm. Doesn't matter how thick the log
is, longer strokes work better.
You don't want the garrettwade. It's a combination tooth, and they
admit that they sacrificed some performance to make it a dry/green
cutter. Probably not much, but after a few cuts you'll notice. I'd go
with either the crosscut or Lehmans.
One of your posts makes me think you can sharpen a saw or you know
someone who can. Lehmans says right up front the saw needs to be
sharpened when you get it and I'd bet the crosscut saw would too. Oh,
and when I used one of those it was the one with the extra handle like
the crosscut, and I used it. It helped. It still dang near killed me,
though. Of course, unlike me, you'll be able to stop anytime you want
and take a break. :-)
Have fun! After a few weeks with those things, I can look at 'em with
nostalgia but I'm never gonna pick one up to cut wood with it again.
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