Critique My Router Table Top Idea Please?

[N Hurst]

I got my hands on some 1/2" Corian that I plan on turning into a router table.

The piece is around 2.5 feet wide by 5 feet long.

Here's what I'm planning to do:

Cut two pieces of around 24" x 20"

Cut 3/4" MDF to same size.

Route a 9" x 12" space out of the middle of all pieces for the insert

Mount the first Corian piece to the MDF with some kind of glue, and use machine bolts counter sunk into the Corian through the MDF with are then tightened with countersunk nuts on the bottom of the MDF.

Clamp and wait for glue to dry

Glue second piece of Corian atop the first piece with some kind of glue, giving me 1" of Corian plus the MDF for the total thickness of 1

3/4".

Clamp and wait for glue to dry

Trim edges in oak or other type wood and glue into place.

Route out slots for aluminum t track for mitre and fence slots.

Epoxy track into slots

Will this yield me a flat, solid, and long lasting surface? I'm open to all suggestions and critiques, so please share what you've got!

I'm especially interested in learning about what kind of adhesive will yield the best results for gluing Corian to the MDF and to the other Corian. I checked the "This to That" site, but I don't know what category Corian falls under. :-)

Thanks!

-Nathan

[RayV]

Don't think you need to double up the corian and have MDF.

24" x 20" is too small. I'm using the extension of my saw at 27" wide and wish it were wider.

Can't help you with the glue.

[Tim]

Seems a little excessive. My router table is 1/2" corian screwed to an oak frame. Works just fine. And yes, as your other reply noted, 20x24 is pretty small. I would go with a single layer of corian and make it as large as you have room for. On a previous router table I glued corian to oak with polyurethane; worked fine.

[tom]

[N Hurst]

Oh I've spent a good portion of the last few days doing just that, but I was still unsure on a couple of points. I think that's mostly cleared up. I try to DAGS every time I consider posting a thread here, but I didn't see much about how to glue 2 pieces of Corian together (now unnecessary), and table sizes, which was also addressed.

I just want to make sure I get a good table without wasting this stuff. I got a good deal on it, but it won't be a good deal if it's wasted on a blown project. :-)

Now that it looks like I won't need to double up on the Corian, I think I'll have enough for another little project that I've been looking forward to!

Oh! One final question: When I'm routing out the hole in the Corian for the insert, should I limit it to 1/16" at a time, or what? I've read that it can get messy if you let things get hot, but at the same time, I don't want to be forced to make 6 passes with the router when 2 or 3 will do.

Thanks for all the help!

-Nathan

[sailors10]

Hi Nathan,

Most corian tops are only 1/2 thick. I can see the need to make it beefier since you are going to cut slots for the tracks, but I would suggest making the top longer than 24". If you are using it to make any thing of length (molding in 8' sections) you are going to struggle with keeping the stock flat on the table. The longer the better.

-Lee

N Hurst wrote:

[Mike]

I would just cut out a rough opening with a jig saw and clean it up with a straight bit in the router, followed with a rabbiting bit to form the recess for the insert plate.

Mike

[Tim]

Corian is much easier to work than you would think. They make a special 1 wing bit to prevent the heat you referred to, but unless you really abuse it there is not a problem.

I cut my a 3/8" recess for the router plate and then cut the center out with a jig saw. It didn't work at all; the 1/8" web broke in two places. I ended up routing it all out and and putting in a 1/8" base for the router plate; not an optimum solution. Next time I would cut out the center with a jigsaw first, and then route the recess out; if yo follow me.

[N Hurst]

The fellow I bought it from as well as other posters here have indicated that cutting it with a jigsaw is not the best way to go about cutting holes in Corian. Something about creating tiny cracks in the structure that weaken the surface.

Do you know differently? It would make things a bit easier if I can do it the way you describe.

-Nathan

[Lew Hodgett]

N Hurst wrote: > I got my hands on some 1/2" Corian that I plan on turning into a router > table. >

A 24x20 table is much to small IMHO.

Mine is 24x34 and could be larger.

If I were in your position, would build a 24x36 table, rip the Corian so that you get a 24 and a 5-7/8 piece.

Use the 24 for the table, the 5-7/8 for the fence.

Laminate 2 pieces of 3/4 ply along with the 1/2 Corian using epoxy.

Don't like epoxy? Use 3M 5200.

When cured, seal plywood with shellac.

Route slot in Corian, then mount T-Track in Corian using S/S flat hd sheet metal screws.

Sabersaw hole for mounting plate, then clean up with router and pattern bit using a pattern made from 1/4 hardboard.

BTW, use another piece of that 1/2 Corian for a table saw fence.

Lew

[Wilson]

[lwasserm]

I would skip using 2 plies of the corian. If you want the extra thickness, use thicker MDF or lumber. If I read your description right, your router table top will be 24" X 20"? If so give some thought to making it wider.

[lwasserm]

Rought out the opening with a jig saw before using the router.

[Pat Barber]

Why not look at existing commercial tops for size ideas ???

Like:

will find that buying accessories much easier if you use a more standard size.

N Hurst wrote: