Cribbage board peg hideaway

[Larry C]

Hello,

Planning in making a few cribbage boards for gifts. I can't figure out how to make the little place to put the pegs when the board is not in use.

Anyone done this before?

Thanks

Larry C

[whit3rd]

Two ways come to mind: salt-shaker style, just bore a blind hole and close it with a cork, and puzzle-box style, where a routed pocket has a sliding-dovetail door over it.

I've also seen hinged boards, which suggests hollowing the bottom and letting the hinge close the pocket (use a magnetic catch to keep it closed).

[Larry C]

Not to ask a stupid question... but how would I do a sliding dovetail door. I googled the term and it mosly referred to cabinets.

[Mekon]

There are lots of stupid answers, not so many stupid questions.

I copied one I saw that was made by Roger Gifkin.

I have just posted pics on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

If you cant get that group let me know and I'll email or set up a quick webpage.

Mekon

[Larry C]

Mekon,

Thank you very much. Those pictures are very helpful.

Larry C

[LRod]

I made a board years ago which looks like an antique, now. It's a straight board style, with two pairs of two rows each of 30 holes (in groups of five) with an end hole at one end of each row. At the same end as the end hole, I drilled a pair of rows of five holes for "game" markers. I'll try a little ASCII art here to help you visualize it:

• ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** *****

• ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** *****

***** *****

• ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** *****

• ***** ***** ***** ***** ***** *****

At the end of the board opposite the game holes (right in this drawing) and on the underside of the board, I routed a hole, about 2/3 the thickness of the board deep, about 1½" long, and about ½" wide.

I then routed out an area around that area about 1½" wide and 2" long and about 1/8" deep, finishing out the dimensioning with a dovetail. The end of the routed area can be made round, oval, or rounded to suit. I also (accidentally) tapered the length of that opening very slightly.

I made a cover for the compartment out of a scrap of the same wood the board was made from and dovetailed the three sides of it, as well. It's also slightly tapered to net a friction fit that loosens readily with some motion. I finished it off by carving a small "thumbnail" recess to permitt "gripping" the cover when pulling it out.

There's more than enough room there for even fancy pegs. I'm just using 1/8" dowels, however.

I hope this helps.

I

[Mekon]

If you make it like this, be sure to make the parts so they almost don't fit then sand down till they do. Then friction will keep the slides together.

Mekon

[Larry C]

Mekon

Thanks again

Larry C

[RICHARD]

I am making up 20 broads for a client. I put up some pic on alt.bi pic woodworking of the way I did the storage of the pins. The brass plate is

1/8" x 3/4" x 2 1/2"

[Just Wondering]

What do you charge for a broad nowadays?

[J T]

Thu, Nov 29, 2007, 10:36pm (EST+5) [e-mail] (Larry=A0C) doth query: Hello, Planning in making a few cribbage boards for gifts. I can't figure out how to make the little place to put the pegs when the board is not in use. Anyone done this before?

When I was a kid, had some relatives that played a lot of cribbage. Left the board out full-time. No compartment, just holes drilled in the center of the board to hold the pegs when not in use. What's wrong with just doing it that way?

JOAT Even Popeye didn't eat his spinach until he had to.

[Larry C]

When I was a kid, had some relatives that played a lot of cribbage. Left the board out full-time. No compartment, just holes drilled in the center of the board to hold the pegs when not in use. What's wrong with just doing it that way?

JOAT Even Popeye didn't eat his spinach until he had to.

Thanks again for all the suggestions, ideas, and pictures. The weekend is here so it is time to try out some of the ideas.

Larry C

[RICHARD]

[jbc77]

[Bonehenge (B A R R Y)]

Shhhh! You don't *charge* for them, you *give* them away, and they accept tips.