I have been attempting to recreate a cornerblock for crown molding that
I picked up at a hardware store. I was somewhat successful when I built
them a while back but the angles were not quite accurate but it was
close enough. I regretfully didn't write down the angles and I am
having a hard time duplicating it. I would just purchase them but every
time I see them they look like crap. Poorly made. The typical angles
for outside corners do not seem to be working for me. If anyone knows
of the correct bevel and miter angles to build this corner block I
would be most appreciative. I already have the top square part
constructed. I am including a link to a picture I took of the only
decent one I found a while back to model off of. Thanks everyone!
On 1 Jun 2005 11:48:10 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I don't know what the angles would be on a table saw but on a chop saw
it's not hard to do but might be a little more difficult to explain.
The side that goes against the wall is of course a 90 degree cut and
the other end is 45. Place the piece of crown upside down on your
chop saw at the angle at which it fits the wall and ceiling. You can
kinda rock the piece up and down until it seems to fit squarely. The
back of the bottom detail should be flat against the back fence of the
chop saw. It's just like it's laying on the wall except upside down.
Imagine that the back fence on the saw is the wall and the bottom is
the ceiling. Turn the saw to 45 and make the cut. You should have
the outside angle now. Next just lay the piece flat on the saw (face
up) with the bottom towards you. You will be able to see the where
the angle (you just cut) runs out on the flat part on the back of the
crown. Make your square cut where the angle meets the straight part
of the back. That should be one side. Do the same thing again with
the saw turned to the opposite 45.
If I haven't explained that well enough email me and I can try again.
I might suggest that if you can make the block look good, you can
probably make the inside corner look good without the block.
I had been attempting to cut the molding flat on my miter saw with the
very angles suggested on the altereagle.com site which did not work for
me. I will try the cuts with the molding set in the saw as it would sit
on the wall/ceiling and see how that goes!
While we're talking about crown moulding....
I'm doing my first trim project here soon. Adding trim pieces to kitchen
cabinetry. Everything but the crown seems pretty straightforward.
In a few places the crown moulding will butt to walls that will have no
crown moulding. I considered just having it span the perimeter of the room
but there would definitely be some runs where it would look extremely
awkward so I decided against that.
My current thinking is to cope a small piece (2 inches or so) to those butts
and have a return miter cap the end of that small piece. So the walls with
no crown would actually have this small piece on them. This seems to me to
be nicer than just butting to the wall.
What would ordinarily be done here?
thanks for comments
On Thu, 2 Jun 2005 15:00:19 GMT, email@example.com wrote:
Just butting to the wall is what's normally done.
If I understand what you are doing, you are turning the mold along the
wall with a short piece and then butting to the wall with the
return.....? I've never had anyone ask me to do that but if the look
appeals to you, go for it.
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