Creating a tapered hole

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CW wrote:

The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks another question about ANYTHING.
Dave
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David wrote:

Frankly, there were a fair number of suggestions that required a fair amount of effort and probably buying new tools. I love wood, but I also love being efficient. Making a holder for paint and glue cups...the thing ain't going to be looking good for long, so why go to the effort? The only reason I mentioned a wood frame, was to keep some wood in the project. Otherwise, I would take the foam box from a dozen eggs and pour in some plaster around the cups. That's as high tech as the thing needs to get. You know, a kindergarten project.
R
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David wrote:

Even easier was taking some spare cups andnailing them to a board.Then drop the workiing cups into them.
--

FF


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| | Even easier was taking some spare cups andnailing them | to a board.Then drop the workiing cups into them. | |
I agree. But there are two reasons why I'm going my way: 1. I don't want all the cups nailed to one board. I want to be able to reposition one or two without moving the rest.
2. Have you ever bought a new tool and then looked for a project to use it on?
Norm
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Norm Dresner wrote:

I learned not to do that.
dave
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| CW wrote: | > | > | The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the | suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about | RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told | that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks | another question about ANYTHING. | | Dave
I've tried straight holes. Unless the block is almost as high as the plastic cup, it's worthless. That's why I want a tapered hole.
Norm
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Norm Dresner wrote:

and yet you didn't respond on this thread when I suggested that you add a second layer with smaller holes for the bottom of the cups to sit in. that's going to solve your problem if you don't like having only a straight hole at the top. 2 straight holes of different diameters, spaced apart a bit will accomplish the same thing. I quit.
Dave
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| > | The OP's last statement takes the cake! He claims that all the | suggestions are like taking shotgun to a fly, yet he is talking about | RTV and molds! A straight hole would have sufficed and he has been told | that here, repeatedly... remind me never to respond to him if he asks | another question about ANYTHING. | | Dave
Step 1. Drill one hole (1-7/8") with a Forstner bit Step 2. Take one paint cup and cut it down to ~1/2" high Step 3. Glue to the bottom of the hole. This completes the mold
Making the holders: Mix 1/2 oz each of 2 chemicals and pour into mold. Wait 4 hours and remove completed holder.
This ain't rocket science. It's simple, The holders are perfectly shaped every time and because they're rubber they grip the cups.
Of course, there's still one thing I didn't accomplish: Learning how to drill a tapered hole! <LOL>
But we'll leave that for the next time I guess.
Norm
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Norm Dresner wrote:

You were told several ways to cut a tapered hole. Whether you learned anything from this thread is another question.
R
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wrote:

If you really just have to overkill this and spend some money, go buy some chairmaker's spoon bits. They make tapered holes. They also cost about $60-$80 apiece .
cdo
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This is not expert advise. If u want, take a paddle bit, and grind the angle /^\ from|^|. Then, or at the same time, grind a sharp cutting arriss on the 2 side that touch first as it rotates. Maybe 45. If you predrill, maybe with a hole saw, then you are cutting only on the side, and do not need to retain any front cutting edge. I can't think of the cutting edge on the face, don't know if thos lips are essential.^---^
-
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Norm Dresner wrote:

Build a tray to hold however many cups you need with a little room between each cup. The rim of the cups should be just a little higher than the top edge of the tray. Use a carpet tack, or similar, and nail the cups to the bottom of the tray, cups spaced as required. Pour plaster into the tray up to the top edge. Let set, pull carpet tacks, remove cups (no need to grease them - they'll pop out easily).
R
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Norm Dresner wrote: <snip>

There are 15 deg. tapered (chamfer) router bits readily available... http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept 11
--
JeffB
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Well, if it was me, I believe I'd just use a forstner to drill a STRAIGHT sided hole that was large enough to keep the cup from tipping. But if you must match the taper, try a web search on how to make a wood reamer.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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I suggested (again) grinding the sides on the tapered the paddle bit. That may not do anything but squeek. If you were intent, (not that crazy) you may have to take a dremel tool, and grind a groove. Grind it on the face, parallel to the side you tapered, again on the side that first touches as the bit spins, so that the cutting chips curl around backward and break off. It has to give the leading edge of the chip encouragement to separate, or rip. It ain't rocket science. And the difference between failure and success can be very minor indeed.
-
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I use a spade bit, which I presume is the same, modified to the standard taper taper for making the holes in candlesticks. 7/8 taper 3/4. Quick grind job and a deburr was all it took.
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(SNIP) I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15

14 degree dovetail router bits are available from most router bit suppliers. 14 degrees is ~15 degrees ? Earl Creel
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wrote:

I know this is a little late, but who says the support has to completely surround the cup? 3-4 short 3/4" square pieces with 15 degree cuts on the ends glued around the cup.
-Leuf
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