Creating a tapered hole

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It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these almost every day.
The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for the height.
Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that would help much either.
Suggestions welcome.
Norm
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Do you have a wood lathe? It is a simple matter to cut tapers with it, checking the fit as you go. Without a lathe I would use a coarse half round rasp to do the job. Bugs
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| Do you have a wood lathe? It is a simple matter to cut tapers with it, | checking the fit as you go. Without a lathe I would use a coarse half | round rasp to do the job. | Bugs
Alas, no. I have a radial arm saw, mini table saw, 9" band saw, bench drill press, ... but no lathe.
Norm
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I'm not sure what angle it is, but I've seen a drill bit that was designed to cut candle holes. It might do for what you want (sorry, but I don't know where I saw it).
You might also be able to modify a spade bit to the shape that you want with careful grinding of the edges to form the correct taper.
--
Charley

"Norm Dresner" < snipped-for-privacy@att.net> wrote in message
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I don't know your skill level or your tool availability. You can accomplish what you want with a cheap paddle bit (Irwin speed bore type bit). Grind or file the taper on the sides of the drill. This works quite well for candle holders too. ______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

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Norm Dresner wrote:

appropriatly sized hole to fit the bottom portion of the cups.
dave
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A strait hole will hold them just fine. Don't overcomplicate this.

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RE: Subject
Time to find a buddy who has a machine shop and barter.
What you want is very easy to make if you have access to a small metal working lathe and a "Bridgeport" (universal) milling machine.
Many years ago I needed exactly what you are looking for to install tapered thru hulls in boats.
My friend, also a boater, had a machine shop and came to the rescue.
Lew
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A universal milling machine is a type of horizontal mill, not a Bridgeport. You're quite right though, a custom made cutter would be easy enough. Now, can he pay for it.

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CW wrote: > A universal milling machine is a type of horizontal mill, not a Bridgeport.
Right you are, guess I've been away from machine tools too long.
> You're quite right though, a custom made cutter would be easy enough. Now, > can he pay for it.
The operative word is barter<G>.
Lew
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Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop (stack) your working cups into the fixed ones?
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| > It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my modeling work I | > usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine cups" [the kind they use | > in hospitals] filled with various liquids -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint | > thinners, etc -- on the bench and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one | > or more of these almost every day. | > | > The obvious solution would be to create a small base for them that's | > tip-proof. Conceptually a 1-3/4" square of something like MDF in which | > there's been bored a tapered hole that matches the taper of the cups would | > work fine -- I've already done this with a straight-sided glue bottle that | > was consistently in danger of tipping because the base was too narrow for | > the height. | > | > Anyway, I suppose I could drill a straight hole attack it with a rasp. I | > could also, I guess, use my bandsaw with the table tilted. Both of these | > seem like brute force and I keep thinking that there has to be a more | > elegant way. I just measured the slope of the side of the cup and it's ~15 | > degrees from the vertical so I don't think there are any router bits that | > would help much either. | > | > Suggestions welcome. | | Why not epoxy some spare cups to a board, and then just drop | (stack) your working cups into the fixed ones?
That's the simplest solution of all.
Also, if I do want to get ambitious, modifying a spade bit is also a good suggestion.
Thanks Norm
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Norm Dresner wrote:

But not the most elegant! I've done just a bit of googling and haven't found what I'm (you're) looking for. They make small tapered bits for pilot holes, and I've found some larger ones made for metal, but no dedicated ww'ing bits. I've got to figure that somebody makes them. Don't chair makers need bits like these?

Probably the least expensive as well. Now I want to find the real McCoy.
JP
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Jay Pique wrote:

someone else used to carry them, but I can't find my link nor did I see them at Lee Valley. If this bit isn't big enough then you'ld have to get or make a reamer. http://www.greenwoodworking.com/reamer.htm Joe
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Norm Dresner (in Q3XQf.13336$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net) said:
| It's a small matter but one that's driving me batty. In my | modeling work I usually have anywhere from 2 to 6 little "medicine | cups" [the kind they use in hospitals] filled with various liquids | -- custom mixed paint, glue, paint thinners, etc -- on the bench | and naturally I'm constantly knocking over one or more of these | almost every day. | | Suggestions welcome.
If the cups are tapered, I'd think you'd only need to drill a straight hole that's a bit smaller than the top of the cup.
If you're determined to have tapered holes, KBC Tools http://www.kbctools.com sells tapered milling cutters in just about every taper angle you could want (I bought a 5-degree taper for routing box lid lips). I'd clamp the workpiece to the drill press table, drill a straight hole using the bottom (small) diameter, and (without loosening the clamps!) "drill" again using the tapered mill with the drill press running at its highest speed.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
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Fill spare cup with cement. Leave a threaded metal rod centered in the concrete. You could do this by putting into a scrap board and balancing over the cup. When dried, glue some sandpaper to the outside of the cup. Chuck in the DP and Sand to size.
However, I agree with the comment that you are over-thinking. A round hole should work fine.
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FriscoSoxFan wrote:

I'll third that emotion. I offered a suggestion earlier only because the OP seemed intent on having a tapered hole for the cups. I don't think it is at all necessary.
Dave
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i love the concrete idea.
standard tapers in machine tooling, including reamers, are Morse, Browne & Sharpe, Jarno, American National Standard Machine Tapers, American National Standard Taper Pipe.
After consulting about seventeen cross-referenced tables I realized these won't help.
large = expensive anyways. You could get an entire concrete truck delivered to the country.
I've never even tried reaming wood.
what am i doing?
-
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After much consideration, I finally decided to try out the new RTV casting stuff I have. I'm going two ways:
1. I made a negative mold with a bottom section of a cup upside down in a cylindrical hole. I'm going to pour RTV into this and use the rubber directly as a holder for the cups.
2. I took some Sculpey clay formed a base and then drove the bottom of the cup into it to form the master from which I'll pour RTV to make new molds.
Assuming none of this works, I'll probably take a few used cups, cut them down, and glue them onto a plywood base which I'll use as holders for new cups.
I'd love to have actually been able to drill a tapered hole into a block of wood but it's really infeasible and most of the other suggestions are sort of like taking a shotgun to a fly.
Thanks for all the brainpower that went into this.
Norm
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Seems you're going to an awful lot of trouble. You never did explain, what is wrong with a strait hole? Itll hold the cups just fine.

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