Craftsman Table Saw ---- What's the yellow circle for?

[bremen68]

Howdy all... Pop always said the only dumb question is the one you won't ask... What is the yellow plastic circle/plug for on the older (possibly newer) C-man a0" contractor style table saws? The plug is located in the table top right before the blade insert.

I didn't get a manual with my saw and I've wondered what it's there for. I think it has "exact cut" or something like that on it. (I'm working from memory and didn't feel like waiting till I got home to post the question.. A. Because I'd probably forget -- again and/or B. SWMBO or the youngins would keep me hoppin and I'd probably forget --- again... ;-) )

Thanks...

[Leon]

It is used to indicate where you line of cut is. Use your miter gauge set at 90 degrees and cut a small amount off the end of a board. With out letting the board slip on the gauge, pull the board and gauge back until the board is covering 1/2 the yellow spot and use a pencil, fine point permanent marker, or utility knife to mark a line along the fresh cut edge of that board. Repeat for the other side of the blade.

Use the line/lines on the yellow spot for reference to align your future cuts.

[Doug Miller]

I used to have a similar one, years ago. The idea is that you make two marks on the yellow circle (with a sharp pencil, marking knife, awl, etc) in line with where the two sides of the blade cut, like this: | | | | Then you can (supposedly) line up a mark on your lumber to the appropriate mark on the yellow circle, and cut exactly on your mark. That's how it works in theory, anyway. In practice, it works much better to line your cut mark up to the blade itself -- while the blade is stopped, of course -- or, for crosscuts, use an *accurate* miter gauge or sled. (Hint: if it says "Craftsman" on it, it's not accurate.)

[Thom]

I did mine slightly different but with the same result. I took some thin stock and ran into the blade without cutting off. Bring the piece back without moving and you can mark both sides of the blade with one cut. Same result -- slightly different process to get both sides of the blade at one time.

Thom

[George]

Exac-ti-cut was the nomenclature, as memory serves, and one use has been given.

[No Spam]

I actually think it was meant to be more of a safety feature. It allows you to know where the blade will cut without lifting or removing the blade guard. I used to own a Craftsman table saw, but I never recall using the feature. That being said, some people might find it useful, and at least Sears was trying to make an improvement. It definitely does not hurt anything or get in the way.

[tom_murphy]

Others have described it's purpose. It's been a feature on Craftsman saws for a long time. I've seen it on a 1950's vintage "100" model Craftsman saw, which belonged to my grandfather and now sits largely unused in my brother's basement (I got the drill press and RAS, both of similar vintage). Anyway, in those days the Exacti-Cut marker had adjustable steel indexes.

Yeah, I know, I should have negotiated for the table saw, but I didn't now any better back then. Besides, I really like my Grizzly TS and it's great to have both a RAS and a TS in the shop.

Tom

[Wilson]

[Rob Mills]

They have had that yellow disk as long as I can remember, even in the late

50's. I use mine and like it. I would not mark it with anything other than a lead pencil though because different blades will have different widths. RM~

[bremen68]

Thanks for the info folks!!!

I put the saw back into my shop last night (short version - I was using my bro-in-laws Delta - he's reclaimed it, so back to the craftsman for me)

Took a look at the exacta-cut and it's a little scuffed, but nothing looks like it was marked... I'll do that as part of the final tune up...

[James Williams]

Ridgid TS3650 also has this feature(exacta-cut). Believe the older Craftsman Contractor Saw was made by Ridgid's parent company Emerson.

JW

[Rob Mills]

company Emerson.

[Father Haskell]

Redundant feature if you use a zero clearance throatplate.

[Orson]

replying to Rob Mills, Orson wrote: As a former Sears employee and woodworker do you have any good ideas for replacement parts? I have a 30+ year old Craftsman table saw model 113.241691 and I need a replacement flex drive shaft (part #62884). It is not supported by Sears anymore. Thank you, Orson

[DerbyDad03]

The thread you are responding to is 13 years old. I doubt Rob Mills is paying attention anymore.

Start a new thread with a relevant subject line. You are more likely to get a response that way.

[Tim Daneliuk]

Google is your helper here:

[DerbyDad03]

Were these flex drive models any good?

My gut feel is no, but I can't say why, other than seeing the belt driven models everywhere, including my shop for the past 30 plus years. Never saw a flex drive before, not even on youtube.

[Tim Daneliuk]

I've never used one, so I have no meaningful experience. I will say that I have a 25 year old direct drive model that continues to serve me well. Then again, I ripped out the right wing, built a router table into it, put on an Incra precision fence, installed a Woodworker II ... IOW the only thing original is the stand, the motor, and the left cast iron wing ...

[DerbyDad03]

I have a 25 year

pped out the right wing,

a Woodworker II ... IOW

That sounds much like my Craftsman. Router table extension and Delta fence.

Blade varies based on usage.

The only I've had to replace was an arbor bearing and that was earlier this year. I had a spare arbor, brand new, so I replaced both bearings and the arbor as long as I had it apart.

I keep meaning to buy a link belt but I never seem to remember.

[Leon]

I think the fact that you don't see anyone making them any more would indicate NO. I could see them being a constant maintenance or replacement problem, like the old speedo cables.