craftsman Miter Gauge Question


I am making a Router Table and wanted to use the miter gauge from the craftsman table saw. I notice it has a small roller on the very front of it. Is it advisable to take this off each time I would want to use in on the router table, or is there a place I can buy a Track that would match this gauge. I heard the craftsman gauge is a wee bit wider that most other mither gauges.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
bdeditch wrote:

Chances are that what you call a roller is actually a washer.
Many miter gauges have these washers attached to the miter bar to allow it to work in a T-slot. Yes, it will work fine if you remove the washer. Then you can use the gauge in a straight slot.
And yes, some (not all) Craftsman miter bars are not "standard" size. If you have a strange size, you may or may not be able to buy T-track for it. How's about posting the bar dimensions here?
A little more info would be good.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Easiest way to find out is to just try it in a piece of track. I have a Craftsman saw/gauge also and heard similar reports about it being a non-standard size. Turns out it works fine in a a 3/8" x 3/4" track (without the roller/washer) that I put in my router table.
Cheers! Dukestser
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Dukes909 wrote:

Woodhaven. The shape of the extrusion is such that its width can be adjusted somewhat by how much the mounting screws are tightened. The miter gauge from my Craftsman saw fits quite well. I have the gauge with the clamp attachment; this can be handy for routing the ends of narrow pieces. (Although others have pointed out that a sled not only does this job but is likely to be easier to use with a backer board.) John
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Actually, it's a wee bit narrower. A Craftsman miter gauge will work on virtually anyone's machinery, but a Delta (for example) won't fit into a Craftsman slot. I have an article on my website with actual dimensions of Craftsman vs practically everyone else's miter slots.
And, no, the washer on the end won't help matters. More to the point, why put a slot on your router table in the first place? It weakens the table, and only about 7% of your router table work needs a square guide anyway. Just build a sled that runs against the fence. Look at Eagle America's for an example.
--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I like the miter slot ONLY for BenchDog Feather boards. And rather than make or buy a sled, simply use a 12" square piece of 3/4" plywood to push the work through. Let it ride along the fence.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
That is fine for a simple 1/4 bead on a 2 " piece, but I plan to do Rail and stiles and you need to be able to hold the work firmly. Leon wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

a sled with a backer board and some hold down clamps works great for rail and stile bits and raising panels also. i put 2 slots in my table when it was built thinking they would be handy. i have never used them for anything!!! check out pat warners site. lots of good info there for jigs and sleds for nearly anything you can think of. http://www.patwarner.com /
skeez
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

And a sled will work just fine for that. Still no need for a miter slot. Check out all the rail and stile work done by Bob Rosendahl on "The Router Workshop". Also check out the rail and stile work Norm does with his Eagle America sled.
No router table of mine will ever have a miter slot. For one thing, I will never have issues with parallelism. And then there's the table weakening issue I mentioned before.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
You Have a good Point LRod. I am going to take that in to consideration, Now I guess I better build one. LRod wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Freud includes a nice CD with their cabinet sets that not only shows you how to set up the bits but how to build a sled for routing the rail ends (plays on Windows media player I think). I agree you don't need a miter slot on your router table but if you must, Benchdog offers the 'TiterMiter' that gives you both an adjustable width miter track and T-track.
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.