CPOworkshop.com Experience

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Neeeeeee! "Castor" is an oil. "Casters" are wheeled things. Don't screw up again or I'll say "shrubbery" again.

Holy bassetball players, Batman! That's not a baseboard, it's a bloody cabinet!

So leave the outer boards quickly removable for access.

Shrubbery!
-- You and I have a rendezvous with destiny. We will preserve for our children this, the last best hope of man on Earth, or we will sentence them to take the last step into a thousand years of darkness.? -- Ronald Reagan
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Well, it shrunk by 2.5" inches yesterday as I learned my local 2by8s are just 7" wide (and scarcely more than 1 3/8" thick).
BTW, thanks for differentiating castor from caster for me. Looking up the directions online, I almost buried mine! ; )
Bill
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Larry, I'm not sure what you mean by no 'O'. Am I overlooking something?
Bill
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Anything outside the leveling bolts (or casters when they're up) is wasted (and something more to trip over). I'd use something like this...
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001073/10131/TNut-Levelers-4.aspx
- or - http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001073/10130/Corner-Bracket-Levelers-4.aspx
...as close to the corners as possible.
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snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Good point. Thanks!
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snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

http://web.newsguy.com/MySite /
It didn't occur to me until today but it seems I be leaving some space between my 5 fir/pine running boards (2x8s) to allow for their expansion due to humidity and temperature. Please advise as to how much space I should leave. I would prefer to leave as little as possible.
I apologize if this seems petty to anyone. It seems like the closer I get to doing something the right way, the more nervous I get about it. When I was hammering in my wire staples this summer, I didn't catch my finger with the hammer until next to the last one! I didn't whimper, I forget the exact phrase I used. :)
Thank you, Bill
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Bill wrote:

Among several I read, this was the most useful article I found:
http://www.woodworkerssource.com/wood_movement.php
I guessed, with all the snow outside here in Indianapolis, that there was high humidity outside (currently-52%). But from looking at an annual chart, I see I was mistaken, it is just the opposite. I infer from the article to leave a nickel's width between each pair of 2by8s. Mike M., I hope they don't mean buffalo nickels. : )
Bill
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wrote:

If you put them tight, I'll bet you a nickel that they will have more than a nickel's gap by the time 6 months goes past.
Hint: Framing grade lumber is 12% moisture, or higher. Wood in a heated and cooled space will easily get down to 9%.
--
Jim in NC


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Morgans wrote:

Thanks for yet another lesson. In my case, the materials are in an attached garage, with big temperature swings depending on the season. I'm not sure if that fits your definition of a "heated and cooled space"? Put 'em in snug, huh?
Bill
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Yep. It will still shrink in a garage.
--
Jim in NC

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snipped-for-privacy@invalid.com says...

Wait a minute. How about casters with threaded stems, put a tee-nut on the bottom a cross-piece and a hex nut on the top, when it's time to move you loosen the hex nut, turn the stem down until the weight is on the caster, then sock down the hex nut to hold it in place. When you've got it moved reverse the procedure to lift the caster?

http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/2010_master_catalog/page/1047/highlight/caster
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Not quite.
I use the castors (wheels) that swivel on a ball bearing base in all directions. Mount them so the base is an inch or two off the ground. If you make a 2 x 4 base, you could cut or leave a (lets use approximate dimensions) 2" x 3" hole in the base. Cover over the hole with a piece of 3/4" plywood onto the top side of the base. If you used a 3" caster, and mount it to the underside of the ply, which would leave the base a little over one inch off the floor.
Put the bolts through from the top of the base close to the outer edges of the base for maximum stability. The end are on the concrete when you tighten them up and continue tightening the bolt until they lift the wheels a fraction of an inch off the ground. The action of threads only lifting one corner of the machine at a times makes it very effortless to lift a very heavy machine, and level it perfectly and not have it move when you apply any side forces to the machine.
--
Jim in NC


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Morgans wrote:

The description above makes more sense now. At first, I though the lag bolts and the castors were mechanically connected... it's more like two separate systems.
Bolts seems to make more sense than screws With all that weight sitting on a retracted screw, it seems like it wouldn't take to long to strip out the wood. I'll know more after I see what sorts of parts, like thread inserts, I can get at the BORG.
Do you think these castors will work okay (they are rated for 176 pounds each). The 4" ones won't quite fit on the twobyfour frame, and it's not like they are going to see much mileage):
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId051&productId 2205536&langId=-1&catalogId053&MERCH=REC-_-product-1-_-202205542-_-202205536-_-N&locStoreNum 19&marketID'6
Bill
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Bill wrote:

Let's see...176 x 4 = 704 lbs. Minimum. Your DP weighs what, maybe 275# tops?
Yes, those would work. Lose the brakes though, no need if you are going to stick in bolts and crank the thing up & down.
--

dadiOH
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Morgans wrote:

Jim (I thought this post was a better place to ask my question, so Please ignore that I'm asking here too),
Did you use (soft) angle steel stock to make your own pieces? If so, it seems like hardening it would be necessary too, no?
Bill
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As shipped is plenty strong.
--
Jim in NC


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Recall my little project (http://web.newsguy.com/MySite /).
Having not tried my router yet, I was thinking of getting a "piloted 1 1/2" flush trim bit" (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page 322) to trim my "running boards" to size--taking off very little of the ends of my twobyeights. I assume it may leave an even nicer edge than my circular saw did (too).
Rockler advises a router table for this bit. Is this a safe enough cut to do by hand? The wood is fir.
Thanks, Bill
P.S. The "Woodworking Shows" is coming to Indianapolis this weekend--should be fun!
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Realize that SPF tubawood is more like 1-5/8" thick and get the 2" length cutter, Bill. Then clamp a backing board to the end for single-swipe trimming.

I do.

Don't get your hopes up, but have fun. (Pinch all the cute demo girls for me, will ya? I can handle the slaps.)
-- Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air... -- Ralph Waldo Emerson
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On 1/20/2011 2:36 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:

I'm not sure I need it this time, but I think I'd rather have the 2" one anyway.
Then clamp a backing board to the end for

Good idea--Thanks!

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"Bill" wrote:

---------------------------- It's only a 1/2" dia bit.
Use in hand held all the time.
Lew
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