The point is, Robert, is that the money is not available to you for subsequent purchases.
With most banks they will either be denied if the hold exceeds the amount remaining in the account after the gas purchase, or allowed to go through with an overdraft fee attached.
College students get bit by this constantly due to mainly having low balances in their accounts.
Has nothing to do with the specific issue under discussion.
Absolutely NOT true in the scenario CLEARLY stated above: ""Pay at the Pump" with a debit card", and these holds can last for 72 hours, with the funds being held not available.
You miss the point completely ... say you have $75 in the account and "pay at the pump" for $20 worth of gas. You should now have $55 for another debit card purchase, right?
Wrong! ... No part of that $55 is available to you to use for future purchases until the "hold" is lifted, in some cases up to 72 hours later:
formatting link
way I had my college age daughter try to get around this was to go in the convenience store and pay for a specific dollar amount of gas using her debit card pin. Even this was not always successful at some Major oil company gas stations, namely Chevron, right across the street from the major campus entrance.
Swingman, Inspired by your comments, I just sent an email message to the corporate level (Delta/Porter-Cable) regarding their "Authorized Delta Online Retailer". One might infer CPO is violating their policy of "7-day delivery for in stock merchandise". Perhaps that will motivate them to ship my DP a little faster..
: Swingman, Inspired by your comments, I just sent an email message to the corporate level (Delta/Porter-Cable) regarding their "Authorized Delta Online Retailer". One might infer CPO is violating their policy of "7-day delivery for in stock merchandise". Perhaps that will motivate them to ship my DP a little faster..
Bill
-------------------------
Well, in case anyone is curious, here is the final update/history:
First week of November, Ordered Delta 17-959L DP. Item was listed as in stock for next day delivery. Was informed 5 days later that order was expected to ship in late January.
2 weeks later, I emailed CPO to ask if they were going to temporarily refund my CC due to the long time frame, but I did not receive a reply.
I contacted Porter-Cable describing the details of this matter with regard to policies associated with being a "Authorized Delta Online Retailer". After another 2 weeks, I suspect they had not received a reply from them (either), so, perhaps motivated in part by my email messages, they elevated my concern to having their sales-rep investigate.
A few days after that, I got a phone call from CPO, out of the blue, offering to upgrade my order to the Delta 18-900L at no additional cost (which I thought was really cool!). They said that they thought there was one at the factory ready to ship the next day or so.
About 3 weeks later (today), a very long 18-wheeler showed up at the end of my steet and I happily toted my new DP 250 feet to its new home on my dolly. :) This purchasing experience was a little frustrating, but the numbers worked out pretty well for me in the end. I want to say "Thanks CPO(for the free upgrade)! I appreciate that CPO always answered their phone even it they usually didn't have the details I was looking for.
The carton arrived in excellent condition, so the DP appears to have had a nice uneventful 500 mile trip. My inclination is to wait until after I finish my painting and lighting upgrade, before assembling it. Maybe I'll just peek inside the box to make sure there are no broken plastic parts, or the like. This surely will be smarter than assembling it now, right? I'm not sure I'll be able to get through the whole day without that "peek"! :)
i would have looked inside whilst the truck was still there. i had a compressor delivered that was pre-broken, even though the outside gave no indication of that. i refused delivery and a new undamaged one came about 3 weeks later.
I unpacked the table and other loose parts from the carton. All of the parts appear to be in excellent condition (sigh) and are suitably heavy. I just read the manual. I'm sure my assembly time will far exceed the
30-60 minutes Delta provided as an estimate. It will take me that long to fit a plywood baseboard to the base, not including a trip to the store to get the necessary carriage bolts. I expect that either a Forstner bit or a Brad point drill bit is called for to properly countersink the holes on the bottom of the plywood, is that correct (I currently lack both)?
As far as "seating the chuck (and taper spindle)"--does it just require a gentle tap with a twobyfour and a hammer, or something more? I realize it would be quite dangerous if these parts broke loose. The owner's manual was vague regarding this (I know I can DAGS, I'm just sharing my concerns...). That seems like the most tenuous connection in the whole machine.
Hopefully, some of the assembly steps will go fast as there are quite a few of them--not including adjusting the laser (LOL). I think I won't rush. I'm not sure if I'll need assistance or not. I have some carpeting I plan to lay on the concrete first. And if I can install the head there (horizontally), I may be able to complete the job myself... Should be interesting. Once I get that plywood baseboard to fit properly I should have enough confidence to sail through the rest of the assembly (yes, that is sarcasm...)! One step at a time...truly amazing (to me) how that seems to simplify the overwhelming...
Maybe I'll be able to drill some "suet logs" for my wife's birds in a few days...that's something to shoot for. : ) Thanks for your interest.
Yes, but I find the thought of them dropping out at 2000 RPM to be unsettling! :) Thank you, and Stuart, for your tips!
The weather is cooperating (50F), which is really nice because the snow has melted and there is lots more room to cut plywood outside(on saw horses). I'll try for perfect cuts with a homemade "fence" and a circular saw. I think I'm sort of getting to be a more knowledgeable newbe--this project should help me assess how I'm doing! If I can't cut a nice rectangle with 4 holes in the right place, maybe I should give up now (j/k)! :) I'm not going to settle for anything I couldn't show to Lew!
I've learned a great lot about plywood lately. I've shared here in the past that I have allergy issues with formaldehyde.
I'm having a rather impossible time finding a "formaldehyde free" or e-0 emissions piece of plywood that is suitable for having my new 280 pound DP (Delta 18-900L) resting on it continuously. It seems this application calls for a quality suitable for industrial flooring (as opposed to a residential counter top).
When I talked to the person at Rockler this morning, he acted as if he didn't even know of anyone who used a plywood "base board" on his/her DP. So I wonder if I'm making a mountain out of a mole hill here.
Maybe since this detail is a major inconvenience, maybe I don't need a
24"x29" baseboard (the base of the DP is 18"x23") as much as is suggested by the manual.
It quote an old cliché, it is hard to get good help these days. If anything, the suggestion for the base board size is too small.
As some one who has done extensive drill press work, both in metal and wood, I can assure that some type of base extension for the drill press is both necessary and prudent. Drill presses, by their construction, are top heavy. It takes very little to tip one over. And when they go over, they often are damaged beyond repair. They also have the potential to cause somebody some real injury.
For folks who do serious work, they often have more substantial platforms than just plywood. I have seen big slabs of metal and plywood and 2 X 4 bases. I have also seen a drill press secured to the wall..
If you are drill long stock that is clamped to the table, you have a big lever than can tip the drill press over. Even if supported on the ends, sometimes something can happen to those supports.
You paid good money for this machine. You don't want anything to happen to it. You want to operate it in a safe fashion., It is prudent, safe and intelligent to make this machine stable.
I used some 2x4s. Four pieces, IIRC...2 attached to the base, 2 hinged to those with wheels so I can move it where I want it. A couple of wooden (ply) cams raise it onto the wheels and set it back down so it won't roll. Works fine
OMG, an $830 drill press? Whatcha gonna make with it?
If the plywood will be on the concrete floor, why wouldn't any old formaldehyde-free (FF) plywood work? If you just want to space it off the floor, why not slap some FF plywood over wunbasixes or tubatwelves to hold 'em together?
What is the plywood for, specifically? It it's to help keep the DP on its foot, the bigger the better.
First, the picture of the new lighting array, all set up and glowing. ;)
-- You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.
In many parts of the country Home Depots' hardwood plywood, "PureBond" brand, is manufactured by Columbia Forest Products which uses formaldehyde free glue in their process, and _is_ LEEDS EQ 4.4 compliant:
formatting link
in all things having to do with marketing these days, the word "free" may not mean to you what it means to a sleazy marketeer, so YMMV. Still worth checking out.
In their brochure, Columbia Forest Products describes their "PureBond" products as being suitable for "furniture, cabinets, and fixtures". As they omitted "flooring", I'm inferring that it may not be up to the task of serving as a baseboard for my DP. I have a Home Depot nearby and am hoping to be able to use their PureBond materials in my projects. Thank you for your suggestion.
Lee, Your points are well taken. I DO intended to drill mortises on long boards (and the potential concerns were already going through my head. Your post provides the confirmation I needed to resolve this matter in an appropriate way.
Making a base board out of 2by4s, as dadiOH suggested, seems the most practical setup to me. The DP has 18" x 23" base, and a (minimum)
24" x 29" baseboard (3" overhang) was recommended in owner's manual.
Please consider the following design: 30" by 33" (6" overhang), 3 1/2" high.
Formed by twenty 33" 2by4s bound together only with 4 or 5 half-inch diameter 29.5" threaded steel rods (using countersunk bolts).
This is hardly cast in stone. I appreciate the feedback I get from you folks who know what you are doing!
Glue necessary? Shrinkage concerns? Additional threaded rods? The manual suggested attached DP base to baseboard with M8x 1.25 x125mm carriage bolts. Obviously, the baseboard above will require much longer bolts. Realizing that the 4 bolts holding the DP to the baseboard are an important factor, will the extra width introduce a new new safety concern?
dadiOh's baseboard has wheels...I have to think more about how that would work. I'm not planning to move the DP far, but being able to move it around easily would definitely be nice!
For starters, I'm going to drill the mortises on my new work benches (I posted pictures of them in a SU drawing on my web site a while back). It may also be nice for drilling a banjo neck where the hoop attaches. Oh, and "suet logs" for my wife's birds. I may try to go into business making those..if I can get the price they get for them at "Bird's Unlimited"
By the way, I did not justify paying $830 for a drill press. I just sort of lucked my way into one at a much reduced price. No, less.
Yep, I'm looking forward to seeing something like that too! Thanks for your help and your interest!
If you are going to use 2 X 4's, you don't have to make a bench top to mount the drill press on. Just layout a big rectangle with the 2 X stock laying flat. Then take a circular saw and cut some lap joints. Use some construction adhesive and screws or nails. Make up a big platform that is an inch and a half thick. If you need to cover it, just use some low cost pine. That way you don't have to use the chemical laden plywood. Remember, it is just a platform to mount your tool on. It is not some piece of furniture. I have seen and built a basic little stand underneath the drill press on the platform. You can store a few things there, drills, etc.
I have built a number of these platforms and like the ones that are big enough to stand on. Your bodyweight just adds to the stability of the machine while you are working.
I would also use a stronger bolt than a carriage bolt. Most carriage bolts these days are cheap junk. Get something that is hardened and countersink the heads.
As long as you don't have to move it far, having a wood surface on top of cement, you can drag it to where you want. If you have to move it far, use wheels. I worry about wheels on something like this. Drill presses are top heavy and it is easy for it to get away from you when you are tipping it. I don't want to add wheels to that equation.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.