Martin, nobody in this thread has disputed that the shape
of rip teeth and crosscut teeth are different.
What you are insisting, which is wrong, and which everyone
has been trying to politely correct you, is that rip teeth
have no set. That is simply wrong. Rip teeth have set.
Hacksaw teeth have set. Pretty much every tooth on every
saw has set(*).
(* the exceptions are when the tooth is wider than the blade,
as is the case with most power saw blades; or things like
felling saws where the raker teeth are not set).
Regardless they are quite common and useful.
They last long enough, I have been using them for 15+ years.
And FWIW jigsawing over an inch thick is pretty much using the wrong
saw. I prefer quality of cut over longevity.
look at a pull blade. The teeth are withing the width of the metal.
The rip has a tiny set. A cross cut you have a tool that puts set and
it is a strong set. You press the handle together and a tongue presses
in to a slot of the anvil. This is a setting tool. Every other tooth,
then rotate the saw and align and press the other teeth. The trick is
to get the proper tooth in the proper bent position and all at the same
amount or the job is jerky. Many saws are flopped down on a bench and
the set starts to get out of align. If you don't sharpen and set your
own tools you will never know.
The problem is set is set or set isn't set. One has to measure with a
finer instrument to measure the set in a rip. The set is very tiny so
it doesn't tear the side grain and keeps a cleaner cut.
The crosscut does that cuts back and forth ripping and tearing and
shearing. It is fighting fiber strands on every tooth. The strands
grip the sides of the blade. One wants a wide kerf for an easy cut.
We used to set saws before a job. We sawed many a sheet of plywood to
make book cases long before fancy power tools came to the home owner.
On 6/7/2016 9:42 AM, John McCoy wrote:
On Monday, May 30, 2016 at 3:04:21 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
You want a rip saw (or resharpen a saw to give it rip teeth). Me, I'd use a
table saw, making two nearly half-through cuts with a narrow kerf blade, then finish
the cut with a handsaw (it'll take some planing, too).
A rip saw (backless handsaw type) typically has 5 teeth/inch and no top bevel on the teeth.
They're fast and easy for rip-to-width chores, but resawing makes a lot more sawdust per inch.
Pros use bandsaws with rip blades, of course.
Set in the teeth makes it a crosscut. If you have a "saw set" a
tool like a Pliers with a anvil and a press pin that bends a tooth
to one side. Move and do every other one. Then rotate the saw and
work down the other teeth pressing them off center like the others.
To convert - press the teeth back into line - e.g. press the wrong tooth
to the center line working on both sides.
On 5/31/2016 10:09 AM, woodchucker wrote:
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 22:57:52 -0500, Martin Eastburn
Both crosscut and rip have set
How to ruin a saw , doing that can cause stress fractures in the base
of the tooth, if you wish to convert a crosscut to a rip for small
section timber you need to re cut the teeth set then sharpen
A converted saw is not really suitable for large scale ripping, the
blades are not generally thick enough to cope.
Better to buy a rip saw
What size stock are you starting with? Tage Frid would also have used
the frame saw, I'd give an advantage here to the Japanese "cut on pull"
design as being where the bowing isn't such an issue as w/ push w/
As everyone else has said, you need a ripsaw. Ripsaws are
available at the likes of Home Depot or Lowes for a fairly
low price; they are crap - the handles are so badly mis-shapen
your hands will cry in agony after 5 minutes use (as a rule
of thumb, if there's a straight line anywhere on handle, the
saw is worthless - doubly so if it's also plastic).
There are a few serious saw makers who offer saws sharpened
as ripsaws. They are not cheap.
The third alternative is to get an old saw from a flea market
or antique store and sharpen it. In my (limited) experience,
about 1 saw in 4 in "ye olde antique mall" is a rip saw, you'll
want to familiarize yourself with what a rip profile looks like
so you recognize the one you want. It is not difficult to
sharpen ripsaw teeth (crosscut is more complex, altho still not
difficult). You may find the available saws have had paint
slobbered over them by hack artists, but it can be scraped off.
A little rust is no problem, it will wear off in use and leave
a nice patina.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.