Cost per sq. ft. to build a workshop building

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I'm thinking about building a seperate building for a workshop. I know there are endless variable here, but what I'm wondering is what a ballpark figure would be to build a wood frame, 1 story, nice looking building for a workshop, per square foot. This is in Southern NH.
-Jim
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jtpr wrote:

Call local builders and ask about costs for a garage.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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Depending where you are, there are companies who specialize in this sort of thing.
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For what is worth I built a boat shed last summer here in Maine for $6,100. It is 28 by 14 and has a dirt floor. Wiring is rudimentary, just a 15 amp lighting circuit and the floor is dirt. there is a pair of 4 1/2 foot doors and an entry door. All the lumber was local green; spruce for the frame and pine for the roof boards and siding (board and batten). There is no insulation. I paid to have the roof shingled but everything else was done by me.
Dave
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jtpr wrote:

Lots of variable here. In southern NH, you'll want insulation and a heater. Go for several windows, a large slider or garage door, a subpanel, 9' ceilings (min), etc. Pay attention to lighting. There have been lots of threads dealing with these subjects, so I suggest a bit of research there. A shop sink and a toilet are nice but a bit expensive, so do a cost/benefit analysis. I don't know your area but out here (S.Cal boondocks), prices start at $75 a foot with plumbing bumping it by 30% or so. As dadiOH said, price out a garage.     mahalo,     jo4hn
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Is that price per square feet? Seems kind of expensive to me. For a 20'x20' shed at $75 a foot that come out to $30,000.
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Upscale wrote:

Wow. About nine or ten years ago, my wife helped me build a 25' x 48' shop. Total investment was about $14,000. That included things like trading for the windows which were removed from a house to be replaced with new vinyl, using a sheet metal roof, using rough poplar and SYP for siding and subfloor, a 200 amp Square D panel and enough circuit breakers, etc., etc., etc. With the exception of framing the roof and installing the metal roofing (do NOT try to install sheetmetal roofing seconds unless you can easily figure out how to allow for the 3/16" screw ups from the manufacturer). OSB walls and ceilings and t&g sanded plywood for a finish floor. Electric furnace (chiseled from a local HVAC dealer when he removed it from a house to install a heat pump).
Lots of trading and bargaining, but it all passed inspection and has been in use for a good time now.
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Charlie Self wrote:

Okey Dokey. Guess I'm used to SoCal prices. Undoubtedly high for NH. Sigh. I've been watching the DIY reruns of the TOH series on the house/barn that they bought in Miford, MA. Steve went with a real estate agent to price other homes in the area. Stuff that would go for at least one million and up here were in the 300K to 800K range. Granted that was several years ago.
My house cost a bit upward of $200 a foot. Worth every penny.     mahalo,     jo4hn
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wrote in message

Welcome to California.
Patriarch
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wrote:

That sounds about right for a licensed contractor's price to me. If you build it yourself or find someone who just does little stuff like that, you might get it for anywhere from $5000-$15000. Prices will vary depending on area, of course.
It's doable for one or two people in a couple of good weekends, if you work hard at it, and have a good idea of how to do it. If you don't know how to do it, it can turn into a nightmare very quickly. A frank talk with the local building inspector and a good book on framing go a long way if you want to do it yourself.
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Jim, In the same boat as you. I think the one variable here is the location. Not getting cheaper around here (I am just south of the border from you).
I am looking at an addition with a shop included. One thing that I am finding is that it is hard to find a decent builder. Most of them are tied up in new housing boom. Plus most would rather build new and not worry about the inherit problems with additions. Not your case if it is a completely separate building.
What style building are you thinking about? I have seen some pretty decent pricing on steel prefab buildings (the kind that come all on one truck). If you have the equipment to erect, it would be a cheap build I am sure. Problem is that steel buildings do not really fit into this area, and are most likely frowned upon come selling time.
I was thinking of a more conventional (for this area) barn style building (detached), but that really sends the cost up. Than I turned to adding on the addition with a larger three car attached. Might be a little costlier, but attached buildings always bring in more value. I could than use the "garage" as a workshop without the effect on resale. One potential buyer would see a three car garage, and the other would see a workshop.
I guess there are pros and cons on attached and detached, but the resale factor is one that has me leaning towards attached.
I use to know the numbers for cost of sqft.... but it fails me know. I do know that you could call you insurance agent and ask. There is a book that they used for each specific area that details the different cost. It is some standard book that the name fails me, but any insurance agent will know for sure. Like mentioned before, ask about the sqft replacement cost of a garage. One thing to keep in mind is most costs are for conventional sizes tied to the structure itself. Meaning that a standard two car is 24'x20' (I think). If you want a something just a couple of feet larger, than the costs will rise per sqft, mostly due to rafters, ceiling joists and beams.
Chris

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I find it works out to about the same price as a car.
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On 22 Aug 2005 09:55:17 -0700, the opaque "Robatoy"
Down here in the states, locals get $7-9k for 2-car garages. Hmmm, what do you Canuckistanis pay for cars up there?
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What I was trying to illustrate, Mr. Smartypants... that the cost depends on the options selected. Basic car $20,000 add the toys $ 40,000. Basic garage $ 7,000 add the toys (like HVAC, skylights, sound system, floor-to-ceiling windows, stage with stripper-pole, bar) before you know it $ 40,000+
What we pay for cars up her depends on how many dogs you get to pull them.
I hope this is clear now.
"The rest is all just static." (Nate Fisher)
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On 23 Aug 2005 05:44:01 -0700, the opaque "Robatoy"
That's "Mr. Larry" to you, boy.

Don't forget the padded flooring for putting those poleriders (so to speak) to best use.

So what's pullin' your sled, Fred?

As mud. (Typical.)

Forget him (whoever he may be.) Gimme quotes by Princess Leia (Carrie Fisher.) Or pics. Yeah, JPGs'd be even nicer. Nekkid pitchers in 'er yout.
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I think you might enjoy this: http://www.ealdormere.sca.org/funny_wpaper.shtml
Tempus is a friend... just spent a couple hours talking to him on sunday, as we closed off yet another pennsic.
--
be safe.
flip
Ich habe keine Ahnung was das bedeutet, oder vielleicht doch?
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clearly wrote:

Check local contractor prices on garages. They're the most common building and usually the cheapest. Finish the interior yourself after you wire it for 220v and fluors everywhere, or let them do it.
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Northern Kansas. 24'x30' shop building, insulated, wired (100 amp service), on a code-specific concrete slab. 20 to 22,000 dollars. No sweat equality, involved. Only think odd, was the design requirement of a row of windows along both of the long side, approximately 2'x4' each.
This is probably a high end estimate.
James...
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I built a 12x16 shop 2 years ago, sets upon 3 rows or RR ties, finished & painted inside and out, insulated, wiring (50 amp subpanel), lights, windows, metal roof. I didn't cut any corners and its well constructed, 3/4" IO plywood floor on 2x6s, 12" centers, walls on 24" centers and pitched roof on 16" centers & full 8' walls. Only thing missing is dedicated heat. Cost me $2400, or $12.50/sqft. John
jtpr wrote:

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Oops, forgot to mention, I'm in New Mexico, however the only thing you'd probably do different is add a thicker insulation. I used R13 as it doesn't get really cold here (R15 is as max for 2x4 walls & not carried locally), and you'll want some manner of vapor barrier due to your humidity, something we rarely have here too. John
John DeBoo wrote:

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