NO you are correct, he absolutely does not mean that.
As Swingman has indicated in the past, we have worked together on a few
kitchen projects in the last few years and I have truly learned a few of
those tricks that were up his sleeve. I believe when working together that
we greatly compliment each other and the results are some very nice
kitchens. A good woodworker is always open to learn new ideas and ways to
It's working great. I am currently working on a couple of jewelry chests
using multiple thickness pieces. I ended up buying s4s maple for this
project and needed to glue up panels with minimal slipping between the
panels and needed to end up with 3/4" thickness and 1/2" when done. I used
the Domino more for alignment purposes during the panel glue up. I may have
had to remove 1/64" to flatten the panels after the glue up and that worked
out just fine.
No, I didn't mean to start one either.
As others have said, and quite recently,
it's often a joy to read the things
people put down here. It's also a thrill
to see the pictures of what someone's
I don't want to be maudlin, nor do I
want to embarrass anyone, but I do want
to show my appreciation for the
contribution that you and many others
make to the forum, both in text and
Thank you very much for those kind words! I'm glad you get some use of the
site. I enjoy, and benefit from, keeping the webpage updated, it serves a
secondary function of helping me overcome CRS these days.
Well, sitting here with a red face, Thank you Swingman, but as usual your
talent for eloquently describing things to sound magnificent has caused a
problem with my head, as it has swollen such that I cannot get though the
I give all credit to our great long time friends that hosted the party and
the excellent choice of music playing in the back ground by the great Linda
With that in mind, Swingman being a very good friend is no slouch himself at
being able to turn wood into beauty as proven by the many pieces that he has
posted on his web site. There are numerous pieces in his home that beg to
be touched every time I visit. Furniture can easily look nice but how often
dies it call out to be touched? In particular a small walnut entryway table
that IIRC resides under a picture of himself dressed up in his "Horse Riding
Costume" riding his pony 15 or 20 years ago. ;~) The piece is simply
elegant. From there you move further inside his home to the much larger
desks, tables, hutches, cabinets, and those 7 chairs which are eye candy to
any woodworkers eyes. I would be proud and honored to have any piece of his
work in my home. EXCEPT for a copy of a piece that I made which apparently
was a bit too complicated for him to duplicate. Sometimes card holders with
kick stands can be complicated with confusing angles. ;~) Please ask
Swingman to repost the picture of THAT one. LOL
I'm looking at the picture of the door frames. Based on the chalked
triangles, I assume the rails from each door were ripped from the same
piece. Is this to match the grain? Did you consider ripping the two
center rail from the same piece instead? The center rails are next to
each other where the grain match would be more apparent. The whole
cabinet looks great BTW. What finish will you use?
Sorry, I'm confused re "center rails" ... do you mean stiles? The outer face
frame stiles of each door was picked to match the grain of the face frame of
the actual cabinet, not the door. (watch that camera flash, it plays tricks
at an angle).
Stiles were aactually picked primarily for their straightness/flatness,
which in the case of doors can be more important that a strict grain match
... nice if you can get it, but a secondary consideration when the wood
stash of stock milled in the same batch is getting low.
Thanks ... "Mission Oak" stain (made for Rockler by the Lawrence-McFadden
Co, one of the best stains MFGR's around) and an amber shellac top coat,
purposely to match other pieces in the same room/suite of furniture.
What I was after (I didn't ask it clearly,) was, do you use points,
silicon, or small wood trim pieces to hold in the glass?
I have yet to see an 'elegant' way to do that which doesn't involve
hours of making and mounting moulding strips.
On square glass kitchen doors with a single pane and no muntins, I generally
use a rabbeted face frame (not dado, sorry) and silicon.
For a piece of furniture, both judiciously applied silicon to stop the
rattle, and wood trim, attached with pins.
Since there are gently curved rails at the top of each glass door that mimic
the base of the cabinet, I'm undecided which avenue I will take on these
If the glass guy can duplicate the slight curve with no problem, I will
route a dado after the face frames are glued up; if not, I'll give him a
square, routed out area on the back of the top rails that will accept a
rectangular piece of glass.
I wish I knew, because I have the bottom doors glued up and drying and I'm
twiddling my thumbs as we speak.
I have used silicon there also. One of the very few times I will tape
a silicon job.
But it's silicon..I don't think it belongs on furniture. Also, I
absolutely hate that shit and in the countertop business, I go through
a lot of it, even when scribing to the walls. (They're not straight,
See? A question, an answer. I always forget I have that pinner. That
should do a great job in that application.
I'll make a bunch of small trim...cool. Problem solved.
tries to have it work for me...but them Eagles are the epitomy of
I have always been a huge Eagles fan, but was leery to try this new
CD. I didn't not want to be disappointed.
Then I read a review in Rolling Stone magazine which had a line in it
which made me go buy it:
===Walsh's "Last Good Time in Town" is a wry cantina-swing sequel to
"Life in the Fast Lane" -- staying home apparently is the new going
out -- and he cuts through the salsa-lounge grooming with James Gang-
era guitar. Seven minutes, though, is a long time to sing about doing
As a guy who has worked both sides of the glass in the studio, you'll
appreciate the art. Can there be a recording that is 'too well done?"
Not on the "recording" end, IMO. It's like wooddorking, you shoot for the
moon and hit the top of your Keds, on a good day ... and you can always try
to polish at turd/song, providing you can get a firm grasp on the clean end.
I saw an interview with Walsh the other day and it looked interesting ...
thanks for the heads-up.
Unless you are requesting tempered glass, it quite easy to cut curves
in float glass. I know a guy who can freehand it. I can do it with
guidelines, and I _know_ you could too. Give him a template or the
frame and it should be no problem at all. Besides, curved glass looks
so much more eloquent when opeing the door.
I agree ... and it's so much easier to run a router with a bearing bit and
then square up the corners than trying to blind cut stopped dadoes.
Never stopped to think about why, but I have an aversion to working
with/handling glass ... simply don't want to touch the stuff, therefore the
complete ignorance on the subject.
Pretty much the same way about plumbing ... I can do anything in
construction, from foundations to roofing, but I won't even replace a faucet
washer without a gun to my head.
Would never consider trapping glass in a dado unless one rail
unscrewed, but you are right about the bearing bit. The best part is
that you have no worries about the corners lining up evenly due to
inaccuracies in the positioning of the cuts on the individual sticks.
Or something like that...
Odd, considering your breadth of experience; but to each to his own.
It's _really_ easy, however. Just watch the edges. You can get thin
float glass on a Sunday from the Borg and cut it in minutes. Even
knock off the edges with emory cloth and sandblast patterns with a
simple thin rubber mask cut with an Xacto knife. All kinds of neat
stuff you can do with glass fairly easily. Just not barefooted.
I pass on the foundations due to the degree of humping involved,
roofing due to the monotony (and the humping), but electrical and
plumbing are OK. But that's me. I can't play the trumpet either.
Even with a gun to my head.
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