I need to propel a 6 inch wheel at about 5 mph. So I need a cordless
drill or any light cordless tool that is geared to about 400 rpm.
Unfortunately, the thing cannot include a device that causes lockup
when the trigger is released and forward pressure appears on the
I'd like medium to high quality, but functionally like my cheap
cordless Skil drill, with a clutch that works in both directions.
But my Skil isn't powerful enough and doesn't include a low gear
that tops out at 400 rpm or less.
Hopefully I can disable the braking feature on my DeWalt DC728 14.4
V drill. I disassembled it and got to mess with lots of gears but
did not see the braking mechanism. I guess the braking mechanism is
located in the one of the clutch pieces. It doesn't seem very
modular, I'm not sure I could even use the geared motor without the
By the way.
Apparently DeWalt drills use MOLYKOTE grease. I see McMaster has
several different types. What type of that grease or what other type
of grease is suitable for drill gears?
Is handling that grease hazardous?
The braking may be electrical. Shorting the motor terminals together when
the power is disconnected will brake the rotor/armature. This seems to be
what is done in my Bosch & Ryobi drills. My guess is that it is done in the
Even with the motor unbraked you will probably get significant
friction/intertia as you will be driving the rotor (stepped up) back through
the gearbox. HTH.
What are you tring to do? There are some reasonably priced geared DC motors
around and reversing is not a problem.
The braking on my DeWalt DC728 must be more than electrical. Try
putting a 3-5 pound weight with significant centrifugal force in the
chuck, get it up to speed, and then release the trigger gently as
possible. When I do that here, it binds and serious grating/grinding
happens. After finally getting around to testing the thing, I find a
drill with such a braking device is a complete nonstarter for my
Yeah, I think that's what happens with my cheap Skil drill, but the
clutch works in both directions which relieves some of that braking
I'm ready to click on any links. DC motors with about the same
amount of power as a 14.4 V or greater cordless drill, and low
geared to about 400 rpm or less.
Cordless drills/tools come in a nice neat package with a trigger
switch and a battery holder, for a reasonable price.
The first big front wheel rollerblades.
For a one off job verge shop a large office photocopier, most of the ones
I've stripped have had a great 12/24V gear motor in them. Alternately
someone like: http://www.oatleyelectronics.com/ but on your side of the
world could probably help.
For an ongoing source googling for local suppliers may be the solution.
Yep, I use a couple of old cordless drills in rigs for repetitive tapping -
they work a treat and are cheap.
You might try poking around http://www.surpluscenter.com/ to see if they
have anything that may be suitable. While I don't have extensive
experience with them, I have made small orders once or twice and have
absolutely no complaints at all.
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
Why not purchase an over-running clutch bearing. They are identical
dimensions to a standard bell bearing, but transmit torque in one direction
only. In the other direction they are a free running bearing. They are
usually about 50% more expensive than an equivalent bearing. They are
readily available here in Australia, so you should have no trouble locating
one at any reasonably good bearing supplier such as SKF or NSK
I've spent money on that route before. Difficult to match attributes
include environmental contamination, locking torque, and inner\outer
diameter. I'd love to use clutch bearings, but so far no go. I might
The first big front wheel rollerblades.
I have 14 new in the box Torrington RC-061008 roller clutches. They
are ID 0.3750, OD 0.6250 and length of 0.500. The current price I
found was $4.96 each. I would sell them for $2.00 each plus shipping.
I own an electronic assembly service. Years ago when we stuffed leaded
components into holes in circuit boards, we had a machine called a
component sequencer. It cut components from reels and put them onto
new reels in a specific order for an inserter machine to insert them.
The sequencer used rotary solenoids to advance and cut one component
at a time from the master reel. One direction of rotation could be
used, but the solenoid had to return to its resting position. The
roller clutches were between the solenoid shaft and the cutting/
We sold the machines, but seemed to have forgotten a box of clutches.
I just found them the other day.
Would these be of any interest to you?
Paul Drahn, President
Do they function under a radial load? Can they be used in a
dirty/dusty environment? Uhg. Too bad I don't have engineering
experience in everything I want to make.
This is not a prototype for a production, it's probably just for me.
I'm looking at cordless drills with a two-piece chuck (as opposed to
the ordinarily much more desirable single sleeve ratcheting type).
Apparently the crummy two-piece chucks do not include a locking
mechanism on the shaft. I ordered a Skil 18 V drill without
batteries dirt cheap for $20 total. I'll plan to use some 18 V
lithium-ion batteries if that drill will work. If possible, maybe
even better would be to use a 36 V lithium-ion battery for which I
already have a battery holder and charger, somehow electrically
splitting it into two 18 V halves. Then again, ack, that 36 V
battery requires a special trigger switch with output properties
that will have to match the 18 V Skil motor. And then that trigger
switch probably won't work with the 18 V battery half I envision
making out of the 36 V battery. So I'll have to buy another
lithium-ion cordless drill kit just to get the batteries, the
holder, and the trigger switch for use with the 18 V lithium-ion
batteries (assuming all lithium-ion batteries have more than
positive and negative output leads). So I might settle for NiMH. Or
No, I don't think any roller clutch will function with a side load.
That would make the rollers want to twist and quickly wear the housing
or the ramps that give the clutch action. And they are not sealed.
They have grease internally, so dust would not be good.
You may need to incorporate both bearings and clutches in your design.
If I may suggest something. Work on engineer parts or sections of your
design. Don't worry right now about power, speed, batteries, etc. Just
get the mechanical part to work. Then begin to apply power. See what
needs to be changed mechanically, then when that works as you want,
step up the power, voltage and what ever you want. Engineering is not
a one step operation it is is working through the problem over and
over until you get it right.
Good luck. Sounds like a fun project.
Google rec.woodworking especially finishing. Come back when you can
demonstrate how I don't help very often.
"DEN" asked for more details, and you ignored it. You're going to turn
a wheel, we can read that. The actual application might allow others to
provide even more help.
Building a Battlebot for school? <G>
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