cordless drill

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Leon wrote:

Start the bit so it contacts the stock flush. Once the hole is started the design of the bit prevents it from being angled.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Worked for me. I use them in a hand drill often. No one ever told me not to and based on experience so far, I'm going to continue.
Spade bit wee also mentioned. Any I've ever had wee crap. Maybe there are some good ones, but I stopped looking many years ago.
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Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Spade bits are IMO mainly for rough work--need a hole in a stud to run a wire or pipe through they're the appropriate tool.
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On 10/22/2009 08:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

The better spade bits have spurs like a brad-point drill. If the bit is sharp it can produce a reasonably clean hole. Not as clean as a forstner or sawtooth bit, of course.
Chris
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On Fri, 23 Oct 2009 01:10:28 -0600, Chris Friesen

I agree with that. I bought a set of Speedbor drill bits this past summer from Lee Valley. In cedar, where one might expect an excessive amount of splintering, they cut very clean holes.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p2238&cat=1,180,42240,53317&ap=1
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Chris Friesen wrote:

If you held a piece of sacrificial wood, tightly against the maple, and drilled through both, you would get a clean entry.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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wrote:

Yeah, that occurred to me after I posted. It would also eliminate the chance of two holes from both sides not lining up exactly.
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J. Clarke wrote:

I probably had the same one and it almost broke my wrist. What torque that drill has. Think they call it the Hole Shooter...
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
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On 10/21/2009 03:02 PM, evodawg wrote:

The ultimate Milwaukee is the Super Hole Shooter. 10A motor at 350rpm. Yikes! The Super Hawg comes close...13A at 450rpm.
Chris
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I had one. A bit hung on some rebar and it literally picked me up off an 8' ladder and tossed me to the floor. I love that drill.
--
Nonny

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On Wed, 21 Oct 2009 11:44:36 -0400, "J. Clarke"

My second (and last) cordless is somewhere in a landfill.
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Phisherman wrote:

I am curious as to what you do with your drills that an 18v cordless won't handle.
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wrote:

Never spend money on batteries again and again and again? I am however a big cordless drill user, less restrictive.
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Leon wrote:

The batteries are the _only_ downside I've found, but at this point I'm lousy with batteries and the next time one dies I'll probably cobble up a tab welder.
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i like the sears c-3 assortment. they came out with a lithium battery and it works with the older c-3 stuff as well as the newer models that come with the lithium batteries - wait for a sale! They have a drill driver with radio, charger and lithium power (2 - I think) for around 99 bucks when its on sale. I;ve had my C-3 set since they first came out (5years?) and the original batteries are working fine. I have the set with the saws all, drill driver, mini skill saw, sander and silly light (but it has come in handy - better than a couple of D cells and the old flashlight).
I mainly use the drill driver and saws all and, though a hobbyist/ homeowner, I've built quite a lot of stiff using this set and it appears to be going strong yet.
I have read where it may be better to rebuild your battery pack than buy NOS packs that may have been sitting an a warehouse since the model first appeared on the market. Shared for what it is worth.
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I would suggest Rigid based on the 12v drill I have from them and the lifetime service warranty I recently got one (father's day 2009) to replace the dead batteries in my 9.6 v Mikitas So far I am real happy with the Rigid, compact size, lots of power, 2 batteries, long life life fast recharge time

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