Coping

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Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two parallel sloped sides.
That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be longer than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?
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dadiOH
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On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:

You have to cut the protruding end point off.
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On 3/15/2012 8:34 AM, Leon wrote:

It sounds like you are not coping with the world very well this morning. ;-)
If it were my problems I would do as suggested and cutting off the tip. However if the tip is big, I would flare the pieces together by cutting it in an eye pleasing line to connect the two pieces together.
Once the bottom edge looked correct, I would use a sharp chisel to carve both pieced to make the profiles match.
I realize this is not a practical solution if you have many joints, but if there are only 2 to 4 it would be doable. Since they are across the room from each other they only have to match to the eye, not be perfect duplicates.
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Around an outside corner you miter. Parallel or one end higher than another????? parallel never comes together, so I don't know what you mean.
On 3/15/2012 7:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:

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On 3/15/2012 6:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:

To miter you have to split the difference equally on the cuts to have the same projection.
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On 3/15/2012 8:26 AM, dpb wrote:

Which works if working on the same plane. What are you going to do if one molding is going from one elevation to another, at an angle, stopping and immediately turning 90 degrees and proceeding horizontally?
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On 3/15/2012 8:44 AM, Leon wrote:

I can't envision precisely what he's after from the description (nor yours :) ).
If there's an out-of-plane direction, the same is true--it takes splitting the difference in the direction normal to the surface between the two to get an equivalent projection on the two pieces; not necessarily simple to measure or compute or cut... :)
It may be simpler to put in a butting-block to meet the ends against from the opposite directions.
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dpb wrote:

Let me try again.
Consider a room with a ceiling sloping up to a peak at one end. That would give you, for example... East wall - 8' high West wall - 12' high North wall slopes- 8' high at one end, 12' at the other South wall slopes - 8' high at one end, 12' at the other
You now want to put a molding all around the room at the wall/ceiling corner. You want to cope the corners. If you cope the sloping wall molding to the non-sloping walls, the cut which is to butt against the non-sloping molding is going to be greater than the molding width. The same is true if you try to cope non-sloping to sloping. Ditto if you try to miter. Ditto if it were around the outside of a piece of furniture configured in the same manner as the imaginary room.
There must be a way to do it and don't tell me "crown molding"...this is complicated enough :). The only way I can think of is the make the sloping molding narrower so that the angled end cut will be the same length as the molding it butts to is wide.
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On 3/15/2012 9:58 AM, dpb wrote:

Rather than try to explain, look here,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/6839536398/in/photostream/lightbox /
Trim is 1x4 with 1/2" wide and deep groove 1/2" from bottom. I would love to learn how to make that bottom right corner work with no extra pieces like terminals.
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On 3/15/2012 5:07 AM, dadiOH wrote:

If I understand you correctly, this is similar to the problem of cutting crown moldings for vaulted/cathedral ceilings?
There are a couple of ways to do it, one using a transition piece. If you DAGS "sloped crown molding", you should find some how to articles.
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Swingman wrote:

OK, that helps. Looks like one has to sort of "round off" the corner with a piece cut and beveled to fit both the horizontal and sloping pieces.
Not bad for a drummer :)
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On 3/15/2012 10:31 AM, dadiOH wrote:

Who's the drummer? :)
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John Grossbohlin wrote:

Exactly but flat molding, not crown.
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John Grossbohlin wrote:

Yeah, the transition thing would do it. Same with cutting off the point except that any routed detail wouldn't match. That's what spackle is for :)
Thanks.
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On 3/15/2012 11:22 AM, dadiOH wrote:

How about this?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/6839536398/in/photostream/lightbox /
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The board against the wall in the background cannot have a square edge... it will have a gap, as it does in the drawing.... The corner will not match up either.
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On 3/15/2012 5:08 PM, John Grossbohlin wrote:

Right! I was trying to understand the OP's situation.
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I think you nailed it... ;~)
John
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Leon wrote:

Which you did. Actually, I had this problem when I was finishing my screen porch a couple of years ago. I solved it but was wondering if there were a better way.
I adjusted the width of the sloping molding a bit. The horizontal molding had a beveled top. Actually, all the molding pieces had beveled tops so that only the front edge touched the ceiling...much easier to get a fit that way, NP with the non-ninety degree corner at ceiling/wall where it had been taped.
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Leon wrote:

Yeah, that's the idea.
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