Lets say you want to put a shaped molding around the upper perimeter of
something that has one end higher than another; that is, that has two
parallel sloped sides.
That means the end cuts on the pieces along the sloped areas will be longer
than the molding is wide. How do you do it so the copes will match what
they are butted to? Or - if around the outside - the mitered cuts?
It sounds like you are not coping with the world very well this morning. ;-)
If it were my problems I would do as suggested and cutting off the tip.
However if the tip is big, I would flare the pieces together by
cutting it in an eye pleasing line to connect the two pieces together.
Once the bottom edge looked correct, I would use a sharp chisel to carve
both pieced to make the profiles match.
I realize this is not a practical solution if you have many joints, but
if there are only 2 to 4 it would be doable. Since they are across the
room from each other they only have to match to the eye, not be perfect
Which works if working on the same plane. What are you going to do if
one molding is going from one elevation to another, at an angle,
stopping and immediately turning 90 degrees and proceeding horizontally?
I can't envision precisely what he's after from the description (nor
yours :) ).
If there's an out-of-plane direction, the same is true--it takes
splitting the difference in the direction normal to the surface between
the two to get an equivalent projection on the two pieces; not
necessarily simple to measure or compute or cut... :)
It may be simpler to put in a butting-block to meet the ends against
from the opposite directions.
Let me try again.
Consider a room with a ceiling sloping up to a peak at one end. That would
give you, for example...
East wall - 8' high
West wall - 12' high
North wall slopes- 8' high at one end, 12' at the other
South wall slopes - 8' high at one end, 12' at the other
You now want to put a molding all around the room at the wall/ceiling
corner. You want to cope the corners. If you cope the sloping wall molding
to the non-sloping walls, the cut which is to butt against the non-sloping
molding is going to be greater than the molding width. The same is true if
you try to cope non-sloping to sloping. Ditto if you try to miter. Ditto
if it were around the outside of a piece of furniture configured in the same
manner as the imaginary room.
There must be a way to do it and don't tell me "crown molding"...this is
complicated enough :). The only way I can think of is the make the sloping
molding narrower so that the angled end cut will be the same length as the
molding it butts to is wide.
Rather than try to explain, look here,
Trim is 1x4 with 1/2" wide and deep groove 1/2" from bottom. I would
love to learn how to make that bottom right corner work with no extra
pieces like terminals.
If I understand you correctly, this is similar to the problem of cutting
crown moldings for vaulted/cathedral ceilings?
There are a couple of ways to do it, one using a transition piece. If
you DAGS "sloped crown molding", you should find some how to articles.
Which you did. Actually, I had this problem when I was finishing my screen
porch a couple of years ago. I solved it but was wondering if there were a
I adjusted the width of the sloping molding a bit. The horizontal molding
had a beveled top. Actually, all the molding pieces had beveled tops so
that only the front edge touched the ceiling...much easier to get a fit that
way, NP with the non-ninety degree corner at ceiling/wall where it had been
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