Contractor saw setup - motor mounting

[DSnail]

Pardon my lack of knowledge here, this is my first 'real' piece of woodworking equipement. I spent a better part of my weekend setting up my new General Int. 50-185. I'm still not 100% happy with the straightness of one of the wings but I had to push on. I mounted the motor and fired it up and was extremely pleased at how quiet it is. I was also suprised at how little vibration I felt (maybe my expectations were to low ;-). But when I shut it off I was concerned that when the motor finally went to stop spinning it seemed to bounc quite a bit. This made me think back to how I had set it up. It seems like the motor is essentially hanging off the saw by the pully/belt. Is that really installed correctly? The manual is probably good for an experienced person but just isn't detailed enough for me. Seems like a lot of weight pulling on it.

If I have installed it correctly, will the bouncing be fixed by better aligning the pulleys and perhaps a link belt?

Thanks

[Charlie Self]

DSnail asks:

It's designed thataway. It shouldn't bounce excessively, though.

The manual should have told you to align the pulleys. Use a straightedge and do it now.

A link belt is almost always a help in smoothing out a contractor's saw.

Charlie Self "When you appeal to force, there's one thing you must never do - lose." Dwight D. Eisenhower

[Greg]

I also recently purchased G.I. 50-185. The bouncing motor problem was completely cured by installing a link belt--in fact, the saw now passes the nickel test from start-up to shut-down! Be advised that the belt you need is 3/8 inch wide, not 1/2 that you find on many other saws. Grizzly carries both sizes.

It's a pretty decent saw, however I am experiencing a blade alignment problem that you should check for. The blade progressively moves out of parallel (to the miter track and therefore the fence) when either raising/lowering or tilting the blade to the tune of about 0.030. This is unacceptable to me, even for a Taiwanese-produced C.S. G.I. has acknowledged the problem and the dealer has agreed to replace the saw, however, I am still waiting for one to become available. I'd be interested to know if you or anyone else here have experienced this problem with the G.I. 50-185.

[DIYGUY]

[DSnail]

Thanks for your repsonses - everyone. I went to the local Woodcraft last night in search of a link belt but saw that they only carried the

1/2". I then ordered the 3/8" from Grizzly. I had already read a thread in the group about the 1/2" - 3/8" issue.

I actually do not have the saw completely setup. It took me forever to get the second wing straight. And I found the "cosmoline" removal to be a royal PITA. I'm not event sure it is all off - wings seem kind of marred.

I purchased "The table Saw Book" before the table saw and am trying to follow that as much as possible but I don't have >$100 straight edge ;-) or any of the other instruments.

I will push on with the fence/mitre track. Without additional instruments/knowledge I doubt I'll be able to answer your question about your problem. However, I'd like to know if mine as any problems sooner rather than later. I purchased the General because of the great review in FW. I was hoping that would give me the quality tool while my knowledge was lacking. But now I've read about the twisted table tops, your problem, etc. Has me a little worried. Probably won't find out until it matters and it is too late :-(

Much thanks

[Charlie Self]

You don't need one. Get a good 2' or 4' level. I use a brass bound mason's level to do most set-ups. Treat the level edges and flats with some care. The same level has worked for a decade and set-ups have been fine. After that, a good dial indicator and magnetic base. By good, I mean consistent. Right now, Lee Valley has the set on their site for $31.50. Even with shipping, that's a hard to beat price.

Charlie Self "When a stupid man is doing something he is ashamed of, he always declares that it is his duty." George Bernard Shaw, Caesar and Cleopatra (1901)