Contact Cement


I'm using contact cement to attach an 1/8 inch oak skin to face the exposed sides of my new kitchen cabinets.
Is there any advantage of putting on a 'primer' coat and letting it dry 24 hours before putting on the final coat of contact cement?
Steve
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Yes, assuming it is put on thinned so it has an opportunity to soak in, say in the case of MDF or plywood. If it is scuffed (80 grit in a beltsander) melamine, it won't help.
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If painted, or poly type finish, then sand with 80grit to 100grit. You're looking to get rid of any gloss on the surface. Vacuum the surface, then use a tack cloth, then use the contact cement. A smooth, clean surface is what you're after.
No primer necessary, just prepare the substrate.

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Mr Fixit eh wrote:

That's not the right adhesive for the job...contact cement will not be successful in the long run for the application. Been several letters to editor in FWW over the last few years of veneer/finish failures after using contact cement for veneer work.
Use a regular wood glue w/ perhaps a longer open time to provide more spreading time.
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It would be okay to use if it was 1/8' ply. If using 1/8 solid wood, use wood glue.
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Robatoy wrote:
...re: contact cement and (unspecified) veneer...

I'd still be nervous w/ contact cement for wood-to-wood...just isn't it's purpose.
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On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 09:09:22 -0600, the inscrutable Duane Bozarth

Either glue works fine. I contact cemented my luaun door skins on my kitchen cabinets in '84 or so and they were holding fast through Feb of 2002, when I moved out. Oh, I used solvent-based contact cement and do so today. I've heard too many horror stories to try the waterborne crap.
- Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry. http://diversify.com
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