Does anyone here recollect having a carbide tooth fly-off during
operation? It seems like something one would remember. With all of the
cheap blades and circular saws around, I would think it might make the
news once in a while?
Becoming "all too familiar" with my box-cutter, I was slashing through
several layer of plastic yesterday and sliced across my thumb. I almost
didn't want to look. I felt very lucky that I only needed a band-aid!
If the blade had been sharper, it might not have happened (or something
else might have happened), but I don't want a "do-over". Careful out there!
I didn't mean to state that it was a common occurrence, but that it was
one of "many" things that can go wrong with cheaper products. I have
lost teeth on my Freud($200) dado set on occasion and that is because
carbide tips are VERY brittle and chip quite easily.
Your experiences might be different.
I will continue with Freud.
Well that all makes sense and is a reasonable reason to buy
American..... but if the Forrest blade was damaged during shipping, and
that is quite likely if the op thought the Forrest performed worse, I
would be just as afraid to use the Forrest as the "brand x" blade.
I noticed that the blade was bought from Amazon. Who knows the path it
took before it got to the buyer. It's much easier that you'd think to
warp a saw blade. They are also very easy to straighten out, but you
really have to know what you're doing to keep from making it worse.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
And, it might not have been a warped blade at all. IIRC, there was a
comment about tooth makes. That might imply a bent, slightly chipped
or misaligned tooth.
I think I'd want to get in touch with Forrest about this, before I
returned it to Amazon ~ if only for future reference. I've never owned
a Forrest blade, but their reputation hinges on the quality of their
products. I have no doubt they'd be all over this in a flash.
Not sure what you're saying. I'd guess that Forrest would want to know
what was wrong with a disappointing blade. After all, it reflects
directly on them whether or not it was a shipping/handling damage
IMO, pretty much any new blade, no matter what brand, should be sharp enough, properly flat and otherwise aligned to make perfectly clean cuts for, at least, some reasonable time period. Beyond that, how its sharpness and alignment (flatness or teeth) holds up, for continued perfect cuts, is another matter.
Given the info, I would suspect the Forrest blade was likely defected, in some way.
After reading all the replies so far I am left wondering---If the
Forrest had made a good cut and the HF blade left a tooth mark, would
anyone have suggested checking the saw alignment? Otherwise I am
I'd _always_ question saw setup as well as technique in any comparison...
I'd also in a comparison measure runout, etc., etc., etc., to know.
I'd _ESPECIALLY_ do such stuff if my intent were to post the results
(which effort to do such meticulous reporting is why you'll never find
me actually publishing such comparisons! :) ).
Well, if there's a score mark, _something_ is wrong and that shouldn't
be particularly difficult to find out what.
If I had just spent _big_bucks_ (tm) on a blade and it didn't perform,
I'd also surely like to know why.
And certainly if it's for the purpose of a comparison and I'm going to
claim something of one over the other they each deserve a fair shake.
If the Forrest was, in fact, somehow damaged in shipment or somesuch it
pretty much invalidates the whole object and result doesn't it?
That's part of the reason why I was asking if the board had been face
jointed, thicknessed and edge jointed recently... since he was working both
sides of the board with the two blades if the board wasn't "perfect" it may
have not feed through smoothly on one edge while it did on the other.
Probably not. First of all if you are getting a good cut and you are
satisfied the saw is set up good enough for you.
Second, Forrest guarantees a high degree of quality results and promises
certain tolerances, I doubt the brand x blade makes no such claims.
Out of curiosity, was the board recently face jointed, thicknessed and edge
jointed? The tooth mark comment makes me think the board wasn't tracking
through the blade evenly.... or a splitter/riving knife was causing it to
torque as it was feeding due to the splitter/riving knife being out of
As to the questions:
1) Yes the saw is set up right
2) Yes the alignment on the fence is right
3) The cuts were made on the opposite end and side of the same piece of red
oak, the only difference was the blade.
I will fully admit, I was extremely surprised.
Could it be that the Forrest blade was faulty? That is certainly possible.
For those who said, "Use the one that gives the best cut." That is exactly
what I am going to do - in fact the Forrest is on its way back to Amazon.
IF, repeat "IF," I were a production woodworker, knowing the testimonies and
reputation of the Forrest, I would have gone for a replacement. However, I
am a hobbyist. I enjoy the work and am learning all the while. That being
said, the C3 on the HF blade will probably last me as long as the C4 on the
Forrest blade will last those of you who do production work.
Lastly, it looks as if the HF blade is a good "learning blade" for those of
us who are just starting out and need something that will give a good cut,
but not gouge the wallet too deeply. Later, as we grow our skills and find
the need something like the Forrest, we can move up.
Thanks for all the comments.
Dr. Deb wrote:
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