Comparison

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I agree with Pat and Lew on this one. My WWII has been in constant use for the last two years and it still cuts as smooth as the day I put it on.
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Steve wrote:

Does anyone here recollect having a carbide tooth fly-off during operation? It seems like something one would remember. With all of the cheap blades and circular saws around, I would think it might make the news once in a while?
Becoming "all too familiar" with my box-cutter, I was slashing through several layer of plastic yesterday and sliced across my thumb. I almost didn't want to look. I felt very lucky that I only needed a band-aid! If the blade had been sharper, it might not have happened (or something else might have happened), but I don't want a "do-over". Careful out there!
Bill
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On 7/30/2012 5:31 PM, Bill wrote:

Absolutely, I have had Freud carbide tips come off and if you hit something imbedded in the wood, Look out.
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On 7/30/2012 3:31 PM, Bill wrote:

I didn't mean to state that it was a common occurrence, but that it was one of "many" things that can go wrong with cheaper products. I have lost teeth on my Freud($200) dado set on occasion and that is because carbide tips are VERY brittle and chip quite easily.
Your experiences might be different.
I will continue with Freud.
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On 7/26/2012 12:42 PM, Pat Barber wrote:

Well that all makes sense and is a reasonable reason to buy American..... but if the Forrest blade was damaged during shipping, and that is quite likely if the op thought the Forrest performed worse, I would be just as afraid to use the Forrest as the "brand x" blade.
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+1.
If I was returning the blade, I'd explain why I was doing so to Forrest. And, I'd ask them to examine it for any flaws as well and let me know if they found any.
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On 7/26/12 9:38 PM, Dave wrote:

I noticed that the blade was bought from Amazon. Who knows the path it took before it got to the buyer. It's much easier that you'd think to warp a saw blade. They are also very easy to straighten out, but you really have to know what you're doing to keep from making it worse.
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And, it might not have been a warped blade at all. IIRC, there was a comment about tooth makes. That might imply a bent, slightly chipped or misaligned tooth.
I think I'd want to get in touch with Forrest about this, before I returned it to Amazon ~ if only for future reference. I've never owned a Forrest blade, but their reputation hinges on the quality of their products. I have no doubt they'd be all over this in a flash.
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On 7/26/2012 9:55 PM, Dave wrote:

Yeah I seriously doubt they would say you are still in warranty, return it to us and we will give you a certain percentage refund. ;~)
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Not sure what you're saying. I'd guess that Forrest would want to know what was wrong with a disappointing blade. After all, it reflects directly on them whether or not it was a shipping/handling damage problem.
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On 7/27/2012 6:58 AM, Dave wrote:

I was kiddingly referencing the Promecell warranty/policy.
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IMO, pretty much any new blade, no matter what brand, should be sharp enough, properly flat and otherwise aligned to make perfectly clean cuts for, at least, some reasonable time period. Beyond that, how its sharpness and alignment (flatness or teeth) holds up, for continued perfect cuts, is another matter.
Given the info, I would suspect the Forrest blade was likely defected, in some way.
Sonny
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Dr. Deb wrote:

After reading all the replies so far I am left wondering---If the Forrest had made a good cut and the HF blade left a tooth mark, would anyone have suggested checking the saw alignment? Otherwise I am staying neutral.
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G.W. Ross

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On 7/26/2012 1:33 PM, G. Ross wrote: ...

I'd _always_ question saw setup as well as technique in any comparison...
I'd also in a comparison measure runout, etc., etc., etc., to know.
I'd _ESPECIALLY_ do such stuff if my intent were to post the results (which effort to do such meticulous reporting is why you'll never find me actually publishing such comparisons! :) ).
--
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On 7/26/2012 2:27 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: ...

Well, if there's a score mark, _something_ is wrong and that shouldn't be particularly difficult to find out what.
If I had just spent _big_bucks_ (tm) on a blade and it didn't perform, I'd also surely like to know why.
And certainly if it's for the purpose of a comparison and I'm going to claim something of one over the other they each deserve a fair shake. If the Forrest was, in fact, somehow damaged in shipment or somesuch it pretty much invalidates the whole object and result doesn't it?
--



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That's part of the reason why I was asking if the board had been face jointed, thicknessed and edge jointed recently... since he was working both sides of the board with the two blades if the board wasn't "perfect" it may have not feed through smoothly on one edge while it did on the other.
John
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On 7/26/2012 1:33 PM, G. Ross wrote:

Probably not. First of all if you are getting a good cut and you are satisfied the saw is set up good enough for you.
Second, Forrest guarantees a high degree of quality results and promises certain tolerances, I doubt the brand x blade makes no such claims.
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Out of curiosity, was the board recently face jointed, thicknessed and edge jointed? The tooth mark comment makes me think the board wasn't tracking through the blade evenly.... or a splitter/riving knife was causing it to torque as it was feeding due to the splitter/riving knife being out of alignment.
John
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As to the questions:
1) Yes the saw is set up right 2) Yes the alignment on the fence is right 3) The cuts were made on the opposite end and side of the same piece of red oak, the only difference was the blade.
I will fully admit, I was extremely surprised.
Could it be that the Forrest blade was faulty? That is certainly possible.
For those who said, "Use the one that gives the best cut." That is exactly what I am going to do - in fact the Forrest is on its way back to Amazon.
IF, repeat "IF," I were a production woodworker, knowing the testimonies and reputation of the Forrest, I would have gone for a replacement. However, I am a hobbyist. I enjoy the work and am learning all the while. That being said, the C3 on the HF blade will probably last me as long as the C4 on the Forrest blade will last those of you who do production work.
Lastly, it looks as if the HF blade is a good "learning blade" for those of us who are just starting out and need something that will give a good cut, but not gouge the wallet too deeply. Later, as we grow our skills and find the need something like the Forrest, we can move up.
Thanks for all the comments.
Deb
Dr. Deb wrote:

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On 7/26/2012 3:16 PM, Dr. Deb wrote:

If the tool does the job that you need it to do, nothing else need be said.
--
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